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JV's SC300 2JZGTE BUILD

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Old 10-27-13, 10:51 PM   #1
Jv92sc
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Default JV's SC300 2JZGTE BUILD

Hello everyone, I am pretty new to this site but I have seen some awesome build threads and I wanted to start my own on my 1992 sc300. I bought it with 156k miles non-turbo with an automatic transmission, aftermarket pulleys and a supra suspension. The only things that I have done to it are change the oil and I am in the process of changing the clutch fan into electrical fans that will be operated by a switch.

Here is a list of the mods that I planned out:
*UPDATED* Parts list got longer than expected

Lexus SC300 parts list:

Built with marlin crawler parts Soarer R154
NON-VVTI 2JZGTE Engine
Driftmotion Clutch pedal conversion kit
Driftmotion Stage 3 Clutch Kit
Driftmotion Clutch slave cylinder
Driftmotion 1jz r154 flywheel
Clutch hose
Turbo oil feed hose
Borgwarner S300SX3 .91 A/R
Oil return line +flanges
Arp flywheel bolts
Driftmotion R154 Cross Member & 1jz bellhousing
R154 fork&support
pressure plate bolts
OBX 2jzgte manifold Waste Gate v-band adapter
Junk quarter panel & spoiler
Sc300 GTE harness
Crank and cam seals
T4 gasket
USDM GTE water pump
DriftMotion Serpentine belt W/O A/C
R154 clutch hub
Gates Racing timing belt
Drift motion 2jz motor mounts
R154 bell housing inner bolts
Driftmotion Billet Differential adapter
Turbo oil drain pan gasket
Oil drain flange
Rear sump 2jzgte Dipstick
Water pump neck gasket
Valve cover gasket & seal set
Powder coat valve covers
Mishimoto thermostat
Yonaka Radiator & fans
Intercooler
Intercooler piping
Tial wastegate
Tial wastegate gasket
Steel Driveshaft driftmotion
Depo Racing Oil pressure gauge
Intercooler Pipe with tial q bov flange
Driftmotion Steel Power steering hose
NGK Spark plugs
Tial q Bov
Down pipe & exhaust
Power steering reservior
Aem e85 fuel pump
Upper & lower coolant hoses
Custom Cold air Intake
Narrow band O2 sensor
AEM Wideband o2 sensor
Depo Racing Boost gauge
Clutch Master cylinder
Oil catch can
OEM driver'sseat-$45
Oil feed on block
Oil feed on turbo
Oil return line bolts on turbo
Brake booster fitting on intake
Valve cover catch barb fittings
R154 inspection cover
Redline Mt90 fluid
Full Race Dump Tube DIY kit
Mobile 1 Oil
9 liters of Toyota 4life red Coolant
25ft of 0 gauge battery cable
Misc. Bumper and fender bolts
Manual shifter boot
DS Seat bracket
R100 Seat
Ls400/soarer front Brakes
Wheels
Oil vent lines
TRD LSD

I am looking forward to this BUILD! Any advice is appreciated!


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Last edited by Jv92sc; 07-01-14 at 12:26 AM..
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Old 10-28-13, 06:55 PM   #2
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GL man. First thing i'd do is tackle that rear panel and anything else like it!
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Old 10-29-13, 12:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
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GL man. First thing i'd do is tackle that rear panel and anything else like it!
Thanks! I've been trying to find one but it's so rare to find one near me that's not rusted believe it or not that is the only piece of rust on the whole car. I'm supposed to be getting my other fan today and hopefully finishing up the electric fan setup tomorrow morning.

This car is only going to be kept inside the garage until it is finished so I'm not too worried about the rust just yet.
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Old 10-29-13, 12:59 PM   #4
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Good Luck with the build! i"m looking toward seeing the finished project!
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Old 11-02-13, 10:43 PM   #5
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UPDATE: Got the electric fans installed with a switch planning on getting a new mishimoto radiator if this one gives me problems after the first couple turbo runs. Notice that one is bigger than the other this is because I messed up my order when I ordered the 16" and had to wait a bit for a 12" to finish it off.
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Old 11-03-13, 09:30 AM   #6
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Like others have said get that rust fixed ASAP. Then change that crank pully back to stock. Your throwing that motor out of balance. If u wanna run an aftermarket crank pully use a fluid damper or I think ati makes one. Titan sells them. MVP sells them. But I would change that crank pully before turboing it.
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Old 11-04-13, 06:48 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 95SC3T View Post
Like others have said get that rust fixed ASAP. Then change that crank pully back to stock. Your throwing that motor out of balance. If u wanna run an aftermarket crank pully use a fluid damper or I think ati makes one. Titan sells them. MVP sells them. But I would change that crank pully before turboing it.
Thanks for the advice I will look into the pulley situation. As for the rust like I stated before the car came like that I know it seems like it needs to be done as fast as possible but it is extremely difficult to find a good one around here.

UPDATE: I have been having to jump start my car ever since I got it. I've already swapped out the battery and I know there is a short somewhere. Does anybody know the locations of where I could possibly start checking with my multimeter? I am either gonna do it now or until after the turbo install, regardless after the manifold gets here I won't be running it until I have all my turbo set up installed.
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Old 11-13-13, 05:38 PM   #8
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Got my manifold along with the heat wrap in it took longer than I thought but I'm ready to work on it this weekend. I'm going to start taking off the exhaust along with the sway bar and the air filter. The only thing that disappointed me was that I used up 25ft of wrap for only half the manifold. Ordered another 25ft today and it should be here by Saturday. I still have not had time to look into the short that it has but before I take stuff apart that will be at the top of the to do list this weekend. Next thing on the list is the turbo!
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Old 11-17-13, 04:50 PM   #9
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I finally got the rest of the heat wrap put on and I got the entire exhaust off along with the manifold. Turbo manifold is in place, up next is the turbo!
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Old 11-18-13, 02:41 PM   #10
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Welcome to CL, good start so far. While you're in there, you should look at re-routing that wiring harness (fender well area) cause once or if you end up going low, you won't have to worry about a chewed wiring harness. GL and keep us posted.

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Old 11-24-13, 05:58 AM   #11
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Take that heat wrap off. Especially if its an Ebay special. It will trap all the heat inside and crack all the cheap welds. You don't want that happening.
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Old 11-24-13, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilSCsteve View Post
Welcome to CL, good start so far. While you're in there, you should look at re-routing that wiring harness (fender well area) cause once or if you end up going low, you won't have to worry about a chewed wiring harness. GL and keep us posted. steve
Thanks! I was thinking about that.
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Old 11-24-13, 11:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JZGE View Post
Take that heat wrap off. Especially if its an Ebay special. It will trap all the heat inside and crack all the cheap welds. You don't want that happening.
I think I'll leave it on, my friend is running a gte with about 400 whp and he's never had problems. I got the really similar manifold and wrap from racepartssolutions.com

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Old 11-24-13, 11:44 AM   #14
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You should top off that heat wrap with the silicone spray designed for wrapped manifolds, it creates a water-proof seal to keep out moisture, and further helps heat soak and cracks.
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Old 11-24-13, 04:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You should top off that heat wrap with the silicone spray designed for wrapped manifolds, it creates a water-proof seal to keep out moisture, and further helps heat soak and cracks.
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Old 11-24-13, 04:02 PM
 
 
 
 
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