empringham

trust me, the headache of the GTE swap is worth it. Youll be much happier with this set up. Eager for you to get on with the R154 install... nice build.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

You need to have the coolant temp sensor connected or else the car wont start.....with it disconnected the ECU thinks that it is way to hot and wont allow it to start......

I suggest you recheck all plugs and make sure every single one is plugged in...

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

Thanks, Yeah I'm just eager to turn it on and clean it up lol.

I have two plugs on the coolant neck and I believe that the only one that is disconnected is the one for the gauge but I will connect that one regardless I am just waiting on a plug that I need to order for it to fit onto the sensor. NICE build by the way!

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

I have been trying to start my 2jz-gte non-vvti in the Sc300 for the past couple weekends but have not had any luck it just keeps cranking and cranking and when it sounds like it's about to start it looks like it is misfiring because you can see flames coming back out through the intake. These are the following things that I've done.

-I've redone timing 3 times and it is at TDC and cylinder #1. (Also replaced the timing sprocket the 3rd time I redid the timing with a welded one)

-Double checked and all my connections are hooked up from the harness.

-Did a compression test on all cylinders and it looks like they are all between 150-155 psi.

-Swapped out igniters with a friend's working one which didn't make a difference.

-Checked all my grounds and they look good.

-Sprayed the intake with starter fluid and it tries to start but just misfires.

-My spark plugs were just recently changed out too with NGK 2667 BKR7EIX.

-I cleaned out my cam sensors because they had some carbon build up since they came with the engine and checked the resistance on them both with the engine cold and they were both at around 1100 Ohms.

Only thing I'm thinking that could be causing it not to run right now would be to check my crank sensor... Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Pull out the coils and put one plug in it and see if you are getting spark.....I would check all 6 coils to make sure....You should smell fuel or see fuel in the cylinders..If not you are not getting spark or fuel...

Are you getting fuel.....I.e can you hear fuel pump turning on and can you feel fuel going through feed and return lines..

If those seem good....something has got to be up with the harness....Are you on Aristo auto ECU....if so the neutral safety switch needs to be bypassed

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

I tried pulling out the coils with the spark plugs inside of the coils and it looks like they are not getting spark but I'm not sure if the coils have to be grounded to the head with the two bolts on the side.

I am getting fuel, because I can hear the pump turn on when I crank it (I guess it only comes on when the key is cranking the engine in ignition) and the spark plugs definitely smell like gas.

I doubt that it's the harness, I would go with the Aristo auto ECU being bad before checking the harness, And if the park/neutral safety switch was the issue I don't think it would even crank.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

The coils are grounded through the wires....The ECU sends a ground pulse signal to the to tell when to fire.....They are not grounded by the bolts on the head...

The spark plug should be getting spark when it is sitting in the coil...out of the cylinder head

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

I see.. I only checked cylinder #1 and that was definitely not getting spark. I'll check the rest tonight and then go from there. If I'm not getting spark could it be a ground issue coming from the harness? I'll double check my grounds as well.

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

Last night I checked for spark and I was only getting it in cylinder 2 intermittenly. Now this morning I'm not getting anything... Almost debating at this point it's probably gonna be the ECU or the Harness. Worse comes to worse I will be taking the harness off and checking the every single wire for signs of a short somewhere.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Your coils may be bad as well....I highly doubt it put may be possible.....

Before you take harness of you can check these...

Check continuity from 80 pin ECU plug to coil connectors...

Go get an multimeter if you dont already have one and put it on ohms....if it reads anything other than 1 you got continuity...i.e wiring is good

You can do this without removing the harness

Ignitor #1 goes to pin 57 of 80 pin
Ignitor #2 goes to pin 56 of 80 pin
Ignitor #3 goes to pin 56 of 80 pin
Ignitor #4 goes to pin 54 of 80 pin
Ignitor #5 goes to pin 53 of 80 pin
Ignitor #6 goes to pin 52 of 80 pin

Ignitor #1 goes to pin 1 of 12 pin Ignitor
Ignitor #2 goes to pin 2 of 12 pin Ignitor
Ignitor #3 goes to pin 3 of 12 pin Ignitor
Ignitor #4 goes to pin 4 of 12 pin Ignitor
Ignitor #5 goes to pin 5 of 12 pin Ignitor
Ignitor #6 goes to pin 6 of 12 pin Ignitor

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Does it sound like this.....I wasnt getting any spark of fuel into cylinders...

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

I checked each coil's continuity and they are all at .8 Ohms which should be within spec.



Yeah it just keeps cranking and maybe once every couple of cranks it'll sputter and misfire through the intake, I know it's getting fuel because the spark plugs smell like gas when I check them over. I'll check the continuity tonight thanks for the tips.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

What I posted above is to check to make sure your wires from ECU pinouts are going to the right place....thats why I provided specifics on where each wire is going

Jv92sc

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good I will check the continuity from the ECU pin out to the plugs themselves thanks.

empringham

let us know what you find man... hope its nothing too major.