BuffNStuff

I finally have all the parts I need for my NA-T build on my 1997 Sc300 auto. I finally got around to opening the parts boxes to look at them, and it made me realize how little I know about what I am about to do.

For example: the wastegate is a 50mm similar to a HKS. I opened the box, and there are spacers and shims. I have no idea as to what I am supposed to do with those.

The v-band clamp for the downpipe is driving me nuts. I cant get the 2 flanges to line up perfectly. as it tightens, they start to misalign.

I read about how people are not running gaskets between all the parts. No mani-turbo gasket, no mani-wastegate gasket. Do you agree with this?

The downpipe I have has 3 bungs on it. I know one of them is for the wideband. What are the other 2 for?

Am I supposed to have the dump tube welded to the downpipe?



THIS IS MY FIRST TIME CONVERTING AN NA CAR TO A TURBO CAR IN CASE YOU COULDN'T TELL.

jwin

iTrader: (16)

I install a gasket on everything for my Na-t. Use one bung and plug the other 2. You can have the dump tube welded to the downpipe or you can let it vent out freely its really up to you if you want the noise or not. I am not sure what is wrong with your vbands maybe a picture should help.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

1. When your talking about spacers and shims, im gonna assume you mean the big plate with the hole in it? that goes between the manifold and the gate with the lip facing the gate. Its called a valve seat. Also dont forget to put the gasket, it will ensure a good seal.

2. Im gonna assume you have an xs power kit? I have the same issue. Just lean in from front of car (if your tall enough) pull the downpipe tight against the turbo and center then tighten the vband with left hand while keeping tension. That usually ensures a proper seal on mine, no gasket either.

3. If you go have all your surfaces machined perfect then im sure its fine, but otherwise no. Run quality gaskets with everything.

3. Depends, are you using stock ecu or???? likely youll just use 1 for stock o2 and 1 wideband

4. Its up to you, i left mine open and it doesnt bother me. though other's descriptions of my car are very loud when boosting

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah on 1 you have to get the lip facing the right direction or the wastgate won't work.

v-bands are just like that have someone hold it flat against the turbo while you clamp it or keep playing with it.

use gaskets on everything except the v bands.

you use the 1 wideband if on the stock ecu you would put however many you took out back in the downpipe and plug whats left. Its like an m18 plug or something like that they have them at the auto store.

you can start with open and then worry about mating it to the DP later, unless its going to an exhaust shop and if they can do it just have them do it, but its a bit of extra work getting it all to fit nicely. how loud it will be will depend on the boost you run. if you run 7 psi or something it will be very loud the turbo will constantly be on the gate almost screaming like. if you run higher levels of boost above 1 bar its not as bad since less exhaust gets diverted but its still loud.

BuffNStuff

Yea theres 1 thick plate with a lip. I see that the lip fits inside the hole. does the paper thin metal plate go inbetween the thick plate and the wastegate? or inbetween the plate and the manifold?

I am running a AEM FIC-6 with a boomslang PnP harness for fuel management.

The kit I have is the DriftMotion 62mm kit. It didnt come with gaskets for the turbo to manifold or wastegate to manifold so I didnt know if I was supposed to run the kit without it.

I have a wideband so I guess there is room for both that and the stock o2 sensor.

Any tips for tapping the oilpan? I need to tap it twice right? once for the feed, and another for the return?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the feed does not come from the oil pan. only the return goes to the oil pan.
the feed comes from other various place the most common is to use a is300 union bolt.
do a search for is300 union bolt.

BuffNStuff

Okay so I got the OE manifold off and the turbo manifold on. I went to check the fitment of the turbo and the front of the inlet doesnt clear the distributor. I now know I need the 4-runner cap and rotor.

NOW. If I get the new cap and rotor and the #2 plug wire, do I need to reset the timing? AND if I do, do I have to put everything back together and change the timing first, or can I just install the cap and rotor and change the timing after everything else is installed? I REALLY dont want to have to put the whole car back together. FUHHHHHHHHHH.....

VAgs430

iTrader: (6)

If your just changing out the cap it shouldn't mess up your timing... be careful about not mixing up your wires when moving them to the 4runner dizzy though.

BuffNStuff

Are you positive that it wont change the timing?? I read on another site that it would. Not that I am doubting you, but there seems to be mixed information about this. I pray that you are right, because that would make this a whole lot easier.

Yea I found a diagram that shows which plug wires go where, and it says I need to order a #2 plugwire and replace the #1 wire with it because the #1 wire is too short.


ANYONE ELSE HAVE IMPUT ON THE TIMING ISSUE? I assume many people on here have had to replace the cap and know what to do.

jschru

iTrader: (1)

if you are just changing the cap timing will not be affected.however if you change the cap AND the rotor be sure to put it back on the same way it came off. if youre really worred take a grease pen or a sharpie and make alignment marks on your cap and rotor so when you reinstall it, you know the exact orientation of everything. it also doesn't hurt to grab a timing light and just check the timing to be sure once youre done

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the rotor doesn't even come off, you are just changing the cap. the timing doesn't change because the ignitor always fires the coil at the right time. the rotor is designed wide enough to be in contact with the cap for the full range of ignition timing the ignitor could choose like 0-40 degrees timing. You are just changing the cap so the timing doesn't change at all.

There was a thread that found a few of the spots inside the cap are a little different on the v6 cap than the I6 cap, and could affect the timing of when the rotor and those contacts meed, but its close enough to not seem to be a problem as it seems to work in most cases, but some people have has trouble with this setup, I am not a fan of how you can only get 2 of the 3 bolts on the cap to line up.

BuffNStuff

Okay I got the new 4-runner cap on and it should clear the turbo. I got it all wired up correctly too.

Now, I am on to the oil feed/return lines. I have the kit from driftmotion. The lines came pre cut and with a bunch of fittings and a giant stubby bolt that I dont know what to do with.

This kit only came with 1 flange. Now am I crazy or should there be 2 flanges...1 to the turbo and 1 to the oil pan? These are the flanges that the AN fittings connect to. I am stuck and confused because it seems I am missing some pieces and I dont know what to do with others.

I have searched and I couldnt find a thread with pictures that show how people put their lines together and which fittings go where.

I know I need to drill the union bolt and tap that, and I know the area in which I am supposed to drill/tap the oil pan. Just confused on which fittings go where.

BuffNStuff

Also I apologize for not posting this in the build threads. Maybe the admins will move it?

-Parker Klein

BuffNStuff

Okay so I just figured out that the large "bolt" is a bung that I am supposed to weld to the oil pan instead of using a flange. Where should I be welding this bung? I read that people in the IS community are attaching it to the upper oil pan. Is it easy to get the upper oil pan off so that I can go get it welded? I dont own a welder so I kind of need it to come off.

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

post some pictures of the fittings. most use a flange on the bottom of the turbo to a fitting that goes to the -an lines and then to another fitting to another flange on the oil pan. you are right 2 flanges, unless you weld a flange or large fitting to the oil pan. they probably gave you the flange for the oil pan, thats the same on all JZ motors, but the flange on the bottom of your turbo will vary depending on your turbo, so you probably need that one.

It is not easy to get the upper oil pan out whatsoever, most people pull the motor for that. there is a tricky way with lowering the whole crossmember or something, but easy would be the complete opposite of how I would describe that.