BuffNStuff

Well that sucks. I sure as hell am not going to try and weld something to an oil pan still on the car. I guess I need to go to lowes and find a fitting to weld to the bung, and then tap the oil pan for that fitting. Just seems like too much work to go without a flange for the pan.

Is there another place for the oil feed other than the union bolt? Looking at the feed line, I dont think its long enough to reach the union bolt.

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah its hard to tell what fittings you have and don't have.

you should go with a plate on the block if your motor is still in the car. you could go with a fitting but since you will need to drill it out with a right angle drill and a step bit cause not much else fits in there, you will have difficulty drilling and tapping much anything above a 1/4 or 3/8 npt hole as you have to watch the tapping if the step bit leaves a bigger opening at the front and a smaller opening at the back cause you didn't push it all the way through. Its a matter of finding the right bit that will fit in that area and on your drill chuck if you want to go the tapping route.

I did find the commonly available smaller step bit is about the right size for a 1/4 npt tap when you drill it all the way through (using grease to minimize shavings dropping of course). I have sucessfully drained mine before with only a 1/4 npt hole which is pretty small but I was using a -3 feed line not a -4, and a -8 drain line. I would recommend at least 3/8 if you can it will help with draining and crank case issues, it is really supposed to be 1/2 npt but its extremely difficult to do that in the car. I really don't even recommend the 1/4 I just tested it and it happened to work, your may not.

you suddenly might realize it is easier to just use a big step bit to drill a large hole in the center which probably wont be uniform enough to tap unless you go through enough, and then tap the 2 side holes to bolt on a flange that will accept a 1/2 npt fitting and then you can use the proper free flowing fittings, but you have to watch out for the occasional gasket leak there but its not too bad. they even sell o-ringed flanges now that supossedly seal better.

BuffNStuff

I have all the bolts off of the lower oil pan (just n3ed to break the seal) so I am not that worried about the shavings. I have a step drill and the 90* attachment. I went to a local hotrod shop that has AN fittings and got one that goes from a -10 AN to a 1/2". I also bought a 1/2" tap that I was told to use a socket on. My question is, since ill have the lower pan off, would it just be easier to drill and tap from the inside? Or is there a bunch of stuff in the way?

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you don't want to tap it from the opposite side, NPT has a taper and it will be going the wrong direction.

what size is your step bit? the largest step should be the size for your tap and for 1/2 npt you drill with a 23/32 or 11/16. If your step bit is larger than this and you just drill up to this step, it will neck down as it goes into the pan, and if you try and tap it then the tap will go a little bit and then bottom out when it gets to the thinner part, and then it starts to pulls out the few threads you just made. at least thats my experience with that. If you can find a short enough bit that is the right size so you can drill a 11/16 straight through then you would be fine. just a matter of finding a step bit with the right outer diameter for the tap you want to use, but they don't make them in all sizes. a custom short bit with a smaller shank would do the trick too, as 11/16 usually requires a bigger chuck than a 1/2 inch so you need the special bit or a huge drill.
If you find the right drill bit let me know I want one too.

*edit* I just found this didnt search hard enough last time I guess. wonder if they have an even shorter one but this might work.
reduced shank and pretty short for a bit that size.

BuffNStuff

Ill have to answer that when I get there lol right now I am too effing frustrated with the oil pan. I have jacked the engine so far up into the air that the fan broke the shroud and the motor mounts are out of their seats. This thing will not come out there just isnt the clearance for it. I am about to loose my ******. I have been struggling with the lower pan for about 2 hours. Any suggestions?? All the other posts just say to jack the engine a couple inches and it should slide right out. This is BS. There has to be something I am missing.

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

BuffNStuff

My bit is a 9 step bit that goes up to 3/4" and has an 11/16 step. I got it from harbor freight so hopefully it wont break.

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

BuffNStuff

Just had a thought, is there a possibility that my crossmber is bent up because of hitting speedbumps? My car isn't THAT low but it definetly contacts large speedbumps. Could I just get scissor jack in there and push it back down?

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that 3/4 might be too big to tap after but you can try it I guess.
I don't think the cross member is bent our cars are just that crammed hieghtwise.
I wouldn't sizzor jack anything you are just going to break whatever it is on.

BuffNStuff

I plan to drill from both sides to prevent making the hole too big.

I just lowered the jacks so that I can push the car out to put it in the other side of the garage and now I noticed that the auto transmission will not shift to park. The shifter is all the way forward in the park position but the lights on the dash and the lights next to the shifter say its in reverse. Also with the shifter in park I was able to push the car so I know "park" is not actually engaged. Since the shifter is already all the way forward it is impossible to put it in park. This happened after I jacked up the engine for the oilpan removal. Could the linkage be out of alignment? Or maybe the gear sensor is bad? Anyone else ever had this issue?

1997 sc300 auto --NA-T build in the works. Check out my build thread and povide some input!

-Parker

BuffNStuff

Okay, so I am halfway through my build. I have the manifold and turbo on, the oil lines hooked up, and the 4 runner dist cap on and wired. I was about to start the intercooler stuff today, but I got to more searching about my decision to go with the AEM FIC/6 with the boomslang Pnp harness.

I have heard that a bunch of IS300s are having success with this system, but there are a few that are having nightmares. SO I am back to thinking about doing the switch to the TT ecu mod as I still need to pass emissions.

Ali SC3 you had mentioned it before, but I am still in the dark as to what all needs to be done. I think this would end up being easier to accomplish because there would be no tuning afterward. If you could just get me started in what exact parts I need, and if I need resistors...or any small details I need to know that would be awesome of you. I may come crying to you a lot in the next few weeks as I try and finish this project.

This is my daily driver and I am SICK OF WALKING EVERYWHERE.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I mean have heard the aem fic could be made to run well, it does intercept everything and has alot of features like the standalone does, but that being said, it requires tuning all the stuff and some cooperation on part of the stock ecu, and from what I have experienced with the standalone, there is likely a learning curve and not something I would attempt for a daily simply because there is a turbo ecu option in your case from the USA. If you were 98+ and needed odb2, I would tell you to go for the aem FIC as you literally have no choice anymore.
The tt ecu will drive your car perfectly though, which is what you want for a daily.

check out my tt ecu mod, the link is in my signature just click on it. I think in post 4 I say what is needed for the USDM ecu, you need a odb2 96+ USDM supra turbo ecu. they are usually a bit pricier search for odb2 ecu is probably easiest in the classifieds here and on SF.

you also need a turbo supra maf cause they are 3", I don't think there is a difference between odb1 and odb2 maf wise but I could be wrong on that one.

you also need a map sensor, normally you have to get a 2jzgte one for the JDM ecu, but I am not sure if maybe you can use a different one on the USDM ecu's since its not used for fueling and you dont have twins. you may get a code with a different kind, but if not then a gm 3 bar or motorolla 2.5 bar would be a cheaper alternative that would also raise boost cut which is nice. A theory of mine I have not tested yet. the gte one works fine though.

only other stuff is 550cc injectors, vvti coils and ds62 ignitor, and then the spare ecu pins to wire it all up.

BuffNStuff

OR would it just be easier to go stand alone?? I have an auto transmission and I just read there could be some issues using the usdm tt ecu with an auto. EFF. Why does it have to be so difficult to turbo an auto obdII sc?? SOMEONE please help me through this.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

standalone = no emissions odb2 does not work at all.
what issues with the auto? I am pretty sure it works maybe there is cel issues?

your only choices are the FIC and the tt ecu. The FIC is not the worst option if you have someone who can tune it but also I can see it taking a while to iron out whatever CEL issues there are with the tt ecu, but it should run fine at first while you figure it out. I guess it comes down to which you prefer and how fast you need to do emissions, but with the stock ecu you will always be stuck with 1 coil distributor setup.

lol It has always bee difficult to turbo an odb2 anything, you just found that out though.
There is a reason alot of us only buy 92-95 and its not because we prefer the older styling... although even the older bumpers with a lip are pretty sharp still.

I just realized you wanted this in the build section, Ill move it over there.

BuffNStuff

haha well I came from the F-body world where the OE obdII ecu can be programed to run ALMOST anything and the CELS can be programmed to stay off for emissions. We had it easy.

SO, seeing as how I already have the FIC/6 with a PnP harness. I guess I should TRY and see if I can find a tuner in the Tucson/Phoenix area that can make it work. Then if that doesnt pan out, Ill try my hand at the tt mod. If anyone knows a place in my area LMK please.

Dang it. I was so excited for this project, but now I am not so sure.

tjmhillz

iTrader: (6)

Dealing with the fic can be a nightmare sometimes. I was running it on my turbo IS. It was like night and day with tuning it. To be honest i would find out what your tuner is good with tuning and go with that or go with a full standalone or the tt ecu mod.