Kotadude

So its a '95 SC300 2JZGE.. The only thing im absolutely not certain about is if the guy said he swapped a GTE head.. but I got the rest down 100%

Its built to run over 1000 but runs about 600..
464whp @ 17 psi Low Boost
505whp @ 20psi High Boost
About normal for an SC..
Im going to type the majority of the parts I know are on the car

AEM EMS v2
AEM map and wideband
67mm ITS T4 turbo - .82 EXH
Tial 44mm MV-R Wastegate
Full 3.5in exhaust - could not go 4in, too close to ground
No Cat or Muffler
1000cc low Hz FIC
FSM fuel rail
Dual Walbro fuel pumps 2-6an to Y - block 8an to rail, stock return
Aeromotive 10an FPR
Custom lower NA intake to TT upper with TT throttle body
Wiseco pistons 8.5:1 86.5mm
Eagle rods
ACL race bearings
AEM ATS
OEM TT head gasket
ARP head and main studs
Ported and Polished head
Stock NA cams
3" IC Piping
No EGR
TT oil and water pump
.020" 6282 plugs
1.1 bar spring on waste gate - 16.7psi - peaked at .9 bar

deep breathe

Block Cleaned
Bored and Honed .40
cleaned/polished/grinded crank / Rods .010 / Mains .010
Set bearing clearance
Resurfaced block (Deck)
File fitted rings
Cleaned Head
(Head was ported and polished at this point)
3 angle valve job
resurfaced head
Built Engine
24 guides replaced
All engine parts cleaned - valve covers, oil pan, covers, pans, bolts
Surfaced Flywheel/ 2 Step

blah blah blah

AEM Solenoid
Complete Seal kit for 3000GT VR4 and Nissan RB26 Injectors
Jetronic/Denso plug adaptors
Stage 5 Competition Clutch
Skunk D2 racing sport coilovers
Apexi turbo timer

A lot of other stuff I dont have time to type, some other stuff I dont understand..
A number of parts he also bought and installed himself.. then factor in everything else from power steering to radio and everything..

Before labor cost.. right around $18k to $20k.. safely running about 600bhp

Here is a video the first time I boosted it last week on low boost, was not familiar with it, but im ok with it now

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

You say its a 3.4....?


Meaning it has a stroker crank? I call shenanigans.

Kotadude

I dont want to be wrong on this haha.. there is so much crap done and I just found the previous owner put power steering fluid in the power steering pump instead of ATF and gotta get a new pump. Not knowing anything about Lexus, im a little mind blown at learning so much at once that does not make sense..

Not only is the idle control taped off and welded up, traction control is plated off, rear diff is welded and bunny hops/clanks in parking lots.. turbo timer is not working and I cant get it out without taking dash apart.. car is tuned by a bad rep tuner and leans out insanely sometimes.. does not even have the right wires running to the fuel pumps.. thank god they got rid of the manual boost controller because it spiked boost once and they threw it away.. im afraid its going to spike anyway because the stupid wastegate is opening partially in vacuum

To my knowledge the car is bored by Harringtons Machine Shop to a 3.4L.. thats exactly what it says on the paperwork.. along with a ton of other work they did working the engine over..
Quite frankly I cant get anyone to help me with the car or even talk to me about it at all.. so im sort of winging everything until it all comes together

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the new ride !

Would you mind posting a picture of the engine bay ? Am sure some of the people on this forum will be able to help you identify some stuff. Like you said you are not sure if you have a gte head and the rest of the specs you got them 100% correct. Some people can tell right away if you have a ge or gte head.

No offense meant but don't you think you have been taken for a ride about the specifications given to you so the car can be sold ? Off hand right away I spotted something that doesn't add up. You wrote that the block had been bored and honed to .40 and yet you wrote also that pistons are Wiseco 8.5:1 86.5mm . Don't you think something is wrong there ? If the seller told you a 4 inch exhaust WOULD NOT GO IN THERE that is why it only has 3.5 inch exhaust, isn't he just making excuses ? The difference between the two isn't that much and a 4 inch exhaust I believe should get in there easily most especially that you have no cats and muffler... just a pipe if I got it right. I wonder why will someone go through the trouble of spending money and time getting a head ported and polished and continually use stock NA cams , stock springs & retainers ? Just a thought....

What is the transmission on this car ?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

my gf has 4" exh doesn't scrape anywhere, but she
s stock height. But you said has a custom intake ge lower with gte upper means its probably ge. Bay pictures will help that.

lol@ new to sc's, but then says power is about right for an sc. I'd say it's a little above average haha

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

bored 40 over does not mean its a 3.4, sorry to say. It means 40 thousandths.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Doesn't add up.. If you don't mind me asking, what was the cost on the "stroker" work you have on that receipt. Should give us a better understanding.

Kotadude

The power looked about right compared to looking across the internet at other SC's lol.. thats all I was saying..
I took it to a tuner and a shop that specializes in 2J's and MR2's so I made sure everything was good..
I will get home and get the receipts and try to post what the cost was on this boring and honing crap..
He didnt mess with me just to sell the car, it has receipts.. I mean it kept up with a 750 gixxer today side by side.. its gotta have something done to it.. and im trying to figure it out
I know that I deal with hundreds upon hundreds of cars but never had time to figure out a lot of things AND work a 70hr/wk job too.. so thats my fault
And I know you guys know your cars and your SC's, and thats why im posting so we can figure this out.. otherwise I would not post crap about it.. neither of the shops can figure out why 'whoever' welded the IAC closed, the welded diff is robbing me of power apparently.. and it looks like the intake manifold may be a gte manifold.. which may be what he was talking about

It does not even have the right seats for the injectors and their dry rotting now..
everything is just screwed up, why cant people just do things right..

drifterx27

iTrader: (1)

Pics........

Kotadude

Ok I had a chance and snagged a few pics.. ok so I learned that boring and honing does not change the motor size and I read the thing wrong.. bad foot to start on with the SC forum gurus..

There was a post above, asking about the piston size vs. the boring and honing and it didnt match up.. thats something I dont know about.. maybe those pistons were put in and later there was more work.. the receipt for that dates back to 2011. Could be anything.







Disregard the air/fuel.. only the switch was turned on.. but it does lean out about once per minute when its running.. needs new tune for sure


Here is the IAC thats welded up.. I found a 2J intake manifold, but the shop and I knew a guy with a 900hp MKIII that installed an IAC separate from the intake manifold.. gonna see what we can do because this looks like a B to fix


Weird way traction control is plated up


The shop who did a lot of the work on the receipts, you guys may be able to look up some of their work and see if they do crap work or not


im working on cleaning up most of the bay.. the distributor is in the way of putting an intake on the turbo so im trying to figure that out.. just putting a screen over it wont stop water, you know?


Picture of one of the pages of work, front and back..




plus another 25-30 pages

drifterx27

iTrader: (1)

Your turbo is clocked funny. I have an intake pipe on my turbo with no issues. A precision 6766 turbo, my pipe clears the distributor. You might have to redo your intercooler piping to get it to work for you.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

EDIT:^^^^ LOLOLOLOL ANtonio's car!!!!

definitely a ge head, non turbo. Not a stroker either. Intake pipe will need some fab to work around but not a big deal.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Just by looking at the engine bay I can tell you it doesn't have a stroker lol.

It looks like the previous owner can't even afford a real ffim lol.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

The people above who knows a lot about these cars have said it right , you definitely have a GE head since your water pump outlet is on the right side and with the other info you just mentioned , you definitely don't have a stroker 3.4 engine.

Actually I ask myself now , where are the $18-20k in parts before labor you mentioned on your first post. Looking at the engine bay and the list of parts you mentioned , I really doubt there are $18-20k in parts alone even if that motor had been rebuilt not unless I am missing something. That $$$ figure in parts would have given you a good looking engine bay. If not that , a lot faster car.

I am no where near the caliber of the gurus on this board. I am just another DIY guy just like most people here. With the little I know , when an engine is bored .40 .. that means you will have to use 87mm pistons .. not 86.5 . Otherwise , it would have been bored only .20 . That is the very reason I said , something does not match up.

Again , good luck on your new ride !!!

Kotadude

cool yeah I will figure it out.

previous owner said he stopped counting costs at $10k.. so I said provide receipts, and he gave me everything he had..
It was past $10k after 8 pages.. Then I have to factor in parts that he didnt have receipts for.. the whole suspension was not cheap!
I dont have time to take pictures of every page though, it wont accomplish anything lol
Its not $18k in performance parts.. its $18k in everything but the cost of buying the car.. down to every little gasket