Just Bought - My 2JZGE 20psi '95 NA-T parts list
06-18-13, 10:52 AM
#16
that looks like a receipt for rebuilding a blown motor most likely caused by all the little ignored issues like going lean, having a dogleg welded intake setup (that's if you are lucky they didn't just try to bolt it together which is worse), its clearly a GE from the distributor, you aren't supossed to Tee the 2 vent lines into each other like that, you might as well just be running one vent line and keeping the stock pcv, cause it can only vent as much as the last line its teed into. I have never seen someone put the charge pipe up there on a distributor setup, only on a vvti and even then it looks wierd, whoever did it was not familiar with 2jz's at all.
I know people dont run idle valves on aftermarket intakes because it takes alot more work, but I have never seen an IACV welded shut on a stock intake where you can just bolt the iacv on.
If he spent 18k, that 18k was spent very badly., you will probably need to rework most of the things on this setup but you came to the right place to get help. you should probably start by redoing the intake, either going back to a stock one or getting a real ffim. for the turbo manifolds that wont clear the distributor, you can use a 4 runner distributor cap or go coil on plug since you are on a standalone.
I know people dont run idle valves on aftermarket intakes because it takes alot more work, but I have never seen an IACV welded shut on a stock intake where you can just bolt the iacv on.
If he spent 18k, that 18k was spent very badly., you will probably need to rework most of the things on this setup but you came to the right place to get help. you should probably start by redoing the intake, either going back to a stock one or getting a real ffim. for the turbo manifolds that wont clear the distributor, you can use a 4 runner distributor cap or go coil on plug since you are on a standalone.
06-18-13, 11:39 AM
#17
Hopefully you got that car really cheap. I don't even have near 18k in my car and its a 6 speed with better quality parts and new oem everything. This is a perfect example of how not to go na-t. Put the stock intake back on or get a real ffim with a iacv welded on. Redo the turbo piping. Hopefully it's not that much to get it right.
06-18-13, 12:07 PM
#18
Is that a factory FPR? I know you said Aeromotive but those are fairly hard to hide and there is something very non-aeromotive hanging off the front of the fuel rail. Maybe an dual FPR hybrid setup??? 
The suspension is very low rent stuff.
Is this originally a W58 car? That would explain the TRAC delete.
Like someone asked before, what trans is in this car now? I would not be shocked if it has a stock w58 or a transplanted w58. Besides the AEM, this car has 'ebay special' all over it.
I really don't think prior owner knew much about the car or was taking it to a shop that knew as much as he did. There is just a ton of wrong going on there. Swap it and start fresh with a 1JZ or GTE
The suspension is very low rent stuff.
Is this originally a W58 car? That would explain the TRAC delete.
Like someone asked before, what trans is in this car now? I would not be shocked if it has a stock w58 or a transplanted w58. Besides the AEM, this car has 'ebay special' all over it.
I really don't think prior owner knew much about the car or was taking it to a shop that knew as much as he did. There is just a ton of wrong going on there. Swap it and start fresh with a 1JZ or GTE
Last edited by INTIMAZY; 06-18-13 at 12:15 PM.
06-18-13, 03:33 PM
#20
06-18-13, 06:57 PM
#21
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Is that a factory FPR? I know you said Aeromotive but those are fairly hard to hide and there is something very non-aeromotive hanging off the front of the fuel rail. Maybe an dual FPR hybrid setup???
The suspension is very low rent stuff.
Is this originally a W58 car? That would explain the TRAC delete.
Like someone asked before, what trans is in this car now? I would not be shocked if it has a stock w58 or a transplanted w58. Besides the AEM, this car has 'ebay special' all over it.
I really don't think prior owner knew much about the car or was taking it to a shop that knew as much as he did. There is just a ton of wrong going on there. Swap it and start fresh with a 1JZ or GTE
The suspension is very low rent stuff.
Is this originally a W58 car? That would explain the TRAC delete.
Like someone asked before, what trans is in this car now? I would not be shocked if it has a stock w58 or a transplanted w58. Besides the AEM, this car has 'ebay special' all over it.
I really don't think prior owner knew much about the car or was taking it to a shop that knew as much as he did. There is just a ton of wrong going on there. Swap it and start fresh with a 1JZ or GTE
I just had some oval 3.5" ordered and to be installed from the passenger door to the back.. should keep me from banging the exhaust if I hit a bump on the interstate..
We almost found another intake manifold but it turned out to be 1JZ once we dug it out of inventory. But thats in the works too.. There is one guy that installed an IAC completely separate from the manifold on his thousand something horse MKIII 2J, and their going back to see how he did it.. should save hours or days of labor than trying to get that weld cleaned out.. or even buying a whole new manifold..
I found a vacuum hose flying free today.. The T was too big for the hose.. dont know how it was on there before but it was dry rotted.. gonna either get a new T, or get a bigger to smaller fitting for it..
The Transmission is a regular W58.. I got the car down to $7500 and talked him into included 2... yes TWO.. extra W58 transmissions.. but as long as I keep driving under the speed limit, the current transmission should run a while..
Im not sure about the FPR.. I know the Aeromotive is Red or Black.. but this one looks like the casing was taken off.. so at that point I cant tell if its factory or aftermarket because I dont know the difference in internals
If any of you live close to NC, I would not mind meeting up.. everyone that looks at this thing ends up scratching their head..
06-18-13, 08:18 PM
#22
Looks like I see a black Aeromotive FPR below your TPS , just beside the driver's side suspension . Check picture # 6 you posted for your engine bay . Just kinda weird if what we see on the picture is also the oem regulator right after the rail. Those W58 transmissions are not gonna last long with those horsepower you mentioned on post #1.
Last edited by gerrb; 06-18-13 at 08:27 PM.
06-19-13, 12:13 PM
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Looks like I see a black Aeromotive FPR below your TPS , just beside the driver's side suspension . Check picture # 6 you posted for your engine bay . Just kinda weird if what we see on the picture is also the oem regulator right after the rail. Those W58 transmissions are not gonna last long with those horsepower you mentioned on post #1.
I was looking on the fuel rail where it should be..
It rains way too much, I need to plug in and get a screen shot of my timing map, and I cant even find where the standalone is mounted.. ten dollars says its behind the dash and I will have to take the dash off.. Its not near passenger floorboard where it should be
06-20-13, 12:37 AM
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Found the standalone, its under the carpet of the passenger side!
I asked him about the piston size vs. bore/hone.. He said it had to be the rings taking up the gap probably.. you guys would know more about that than I would
Everytime I get ready to come to a stop, push in the clutch or whatever.. the engine dies.. it didnt do that for the two days we test drove it.. Im wondering if its just the vacuum line that blew off.. or if its the timing or something..
If its the timing then I have to wait to take it to Redline Performance to get it tuned so they can re-sync the stinking distributor to the computer and everything else
He said just idle it up some.. but hell it already idles at 800-900..
To get an intake on the turbo.. I either need to have the turbo repositioned.. or I need a 4-Runner distributor cap.. I dont like running without an intake.. gotta do something..
06-21-13, 09:23 AM
#29
its probably not that intimazy, that when you push it in and out when out of gear and see the fluctuations.
what he is talking about is taking it out of a gear at a low load, which is a tuning issue.
if the idle is not set right or has too much correction range and is set to change too much at a time, it will tend to stall out depending on where the learned value happens to be sitting. combine that with an improperly or too closely set decel fuel cut (which is set off your idle vac and decel vac), any small changes in how much vac you pull like an open vac line or whatever will cause all kinds of drivability issues.
what he is talking about is taking it out of a gear at a low load, which is a tuning issue.
if the idle is not set right or has too much correction range and is set to change too much at a time, it will tend to stall out depending on where the learned value happens to be sitting. combine that with an improperly or too closely set decel fuel cut (which is set off your idle vac and decel vac), any small changes in how much vac you pull like an open vac line or whatever will cause all kinds of drivability issues.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-21-13 at 09:29 AM.
06-22-13, 10:27 PM
#30
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its probably not that intimazy, that when you push it in and out when out of gear and see the fluctuations.
what he is talking about is taking it out of a gear at a low load, which is a tuning issue.
if the idle is not set right or has too much correction range and is set to change too much at a time, it will tend to stall out depending on where the learned value happens to be sitting. combine that with an improperly or too closely set decel fuel cut (which is set off your idle vac and decel vac), any small changes in how much vac you pull like an open vac line or whatever will cause all kinds of drivability issues.
what he is talking about is taking it out of a gear at a low load, which is a tuning issue.
if the idle is not set right or has too much correction range and is set to change too much at a time, it will tend to stall out depending on where the learned value happens to be sitting. combine that with an improperly or too closely set decel fuel cut (which is set off your idle vac and decel vac), any small changes in how much vac you pull like an open vac line or whatever will cause all kinds of drivability issues.
But if I dont tap the throttle as I come to a stop (even in parking lots sometimes) then it will just creep down to 0rpm and stall out..
Basically I have 3 ideas.. make that 4 ideas..
1) I wish I could change the title of this thread to not include 3.4L now that we concluded its not a stroked motor, just bored and honed.
2) The stalling is either caused by the IAC or timing..
3) The stalling is caused by the vacuum line that was 3 sizes too small for the tee.. and was stretched out and shoved onto the tee, dry rotted and blew off..
4) The stalling is caused by a dirty distributor cap.. The problem didnt just start.. it crept up.. I test drove the car for two days and it didnt die until the 6th day I owned it.. then it started dying more and more.. The one thing it reminds me of.. is when it happened to the distributor cap on my civic...
I would push in the clutch coming up to redlights and it would die.. same in parking lots and everything above.. We checked the idle, the TPS, IAC, MAP, spark plugs.. finally took off the distributor cap.. cleaned it out and lightly wire brushed the copper firing points..
Never had a problem again for the last 120k miles..
Im going to fix all of the above though