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IS300 LS1/T56 Daily Driver Build

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Old 06-29-13, 06:02 PM   #16
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I forgot to mention that I had to plug the F-body dipstick hole in the block too. I ran an M10 tap down it while the pan was still off and loctite'd a flat head bolt in there. Looked like a pretty clean fix when I was done.
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Old 06-29-13, 06:03 PM   #17
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Subscribed! This thread has so much win!
ageed.. pretty awesome..
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Old 07-02-13, 06:33 PM   #18
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While the car doesn't look much different I got several things done today. After work I dropped off the drive shaft to be lengthened (as it turns out you can lengthen a drive shaft). It should be ready tomorrow even though I am leaving town for the holiday and can't pick it up until next week.

Here are the Trans Am (aluminum) driveshaft, and the Lexus (2 piece) driveshaft).


I was also able to get my adapter for the master cylinder made at work today. I am incredibly spoiled and I know it! One of our machinists at work had some open time on the CNC mill so he helped me out a bit.

Instead of using studs or long set screws we decided to counter bore and locktite bolts into the adapter.

Here is a shot of the old and the new.

Once I got home from the driveshaft shop I started in on installing the master cylinder.





Once the MC was in an hooked up to the pedal I figured I should finally get the steering knuckle back in. With it living inside the driver side header this was a challenge. I ended up having to drop the steering column to get enough clearance. While I was able to pull this off on my own I would really recommend getting a second set of hands to put this together.

You can kind of see how little room there is to work in there.


On to the third and final task of the night...make the shifter fit the tunnel. We had pulled the top of the shifter assembly when the motor and trans went in. I marked roughly where I was going to notch.

And here is how it looks now.
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Old 07-09-13, 06:32 PM   #19
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One of my buddies at work lives just around the corner from the drive shaft shop so he picked it up for me last night and brought it to work. Here you can see the difference between the stock IS300 drive shaft and the "new" aluminum one.


It fit perfect and was actually really easy to get in.


You can see where the exhaust comes out in this pic.


The rear end is pretty beefy too! I don't think I'll have any issues with this set up.


While I was under the car I got the K-member bolted back up since it was still hanging from getting the headers in. I'm hoping this week (after work of course) I can get all the hoses/lines figured out and ordered. Then Saturday is dedicated to wiring. Wish me luck with that.
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Old 07-12-13, 03:32 PM   #20
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So this is my "study" session for tomorrows big test. I have more wiring diagrams and pinouts than I know what to so with. It looks like a LOT of stuff is just getting cut out and a hand full of wires need to get hooked up. I just need to be sure I get the right hand full before soldering.

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Old 07-13-13, 07:04 PM   #21
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Today was a long day, but very productive. I probably could have gotten all of the wiring done today if I wasn't so picky about the way I do things. Since this is my car and I plan to keep it for quite a while I not only want it to be right but I want to be able to work on it later on.

First step was to pull the Lexus ECU and harness to strip some wires.



Here is the engine harness out of the car "pre-diet".


All this crap (and more later) came out of that harness.


This is all of the 2JZ motor harness that went back in, it has connectors for MAF, A/C, Ambient air temp, starter, and some trans stuff I need to sort out for back up lights.



Re-installed with the thinner harness, and done with this portion.



When we moved over to the GM side of things the intake came back off to get to the loom on the back of the motor.


I didn't get any pictures of the LS1 harness but it was a giant mess of wires that got thinned out similar to the 2JZ.

This is what took so much longer but makes the swap serviceable. Any place where the two harnesses were soldered together and or loomed together I added connectors to be able to pull the motor with less hassle should I ever need to.
Here is where the Lexus MAF meets the GM loom to run over to the passenger side.


This is right below that connecting the Lexus ECU (piggyback) to the GM temp sensor. Since they use the same voltage range I am using one to run both for the LS ECU and IS gauge.


This one isn't quite finished up yet but ties the MIL, Tach, Fuel Pump, Brake Switch, OBDII, Switched Ignition, and maybe back-up lights. The connector is on the firewall just over the passenger side header.


To keep the factory look (and save me from having to but some) I cut connectors out of the Trans Am body harness to splice all the harnesses together.
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Old 07-14-13, 01:21 PM   #22
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This is awesome man I had a 96 240sx with an ls in it which I traded for my IS and I've been itching for some more v8 power lol. Cant wait to see it running man nice work.
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Old 07-14-13, 06:23 PM   #23
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Today was another productive day. I tore into the power side of the Lexus harness and hooked up all but one of the LS1 power wires. I also finished soldering all the connections for the 2JZ MAF and the A/C.



I think the only things left to do are hook up the 12V constant to the LS1 harness and the back-up lights (which I have no ideas how to do). If anyone knows what wires do what on either harness regarding back-up lights I would appreciate the input.

When I finished up tonight the loom isn't back on but the wires are all bundled and look much less chaotic.



I also got the last measurements I needed for the clutch hydraulics and fuel lines so those will get ordered tonight or tomorrow.
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Old 07-17-13, 02:05 PM   #24
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I got more pretty parts today and have some work to do. Monday after I got off work I stopped by one of our hydraulic suppliers and picked up this fun fitting



It goes from 8mm hard line to -6 JIC, in layman's terms Lexus fuel supply to new braided lines.

Then when I got home today I had a box waiting for me with my clutch line, FPR, and the rest of my fuel lines and fittings.

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Old 07-17-13, 06:16 PM   #25
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So I didn't get as much done as I had hoped tonight. As it turns out installing Aeroquip fitting on braided hose is kind of a pain. This was the first time I had ever worked with them and had to learn a bit.

I started of with soldering the new pigtail for the Walbro onto the sending unit and drilling a hole where the bulkhead fitting would go for the return line from the FPR.



I chewed up the fitting a bit on my first try but lucky for me that end gets to live under the back seat where no one will see it...other than in these pictures.



I got the return line ran up to the firewall and mounted the FPR up on the drivers side fender.


I think tomorrow I'll try to make the rest of the fuel lines and maybe finish up the wiring.
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Old 07-21-13, 05:03 PM   #26
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I don't have a tone of pictures from this weekend but I did get some work in. I managed to finish up the fuel lines. This is where the original Lexus line meets the AN braided.




This one connector may not seem like a big deal but it was an adventure. It some how got unhooked when installing the engine and trans. As it turns out you can't plug it in when the tranny is in the car. So I had to drop the trans as low as it would go, drop the K member so I could drop the trans lower, then plug it in and reassemble.


I got my radiator overflow installed and my upper radiator hose figured out.


I also finished up the last of the wiring (still need to run battery cables and ground straps).


As it looks right now I should be starting it up for the first time next weekend, as long as I can get VATS turned off before then.
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Old 07-22-13, 01:15 AM   #27
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Looks good, however I do want to warn you about on issue - the temperature sender. You said because they use the same voltage range, you shared the one sensor - unfortunately this will not work. Each ECU will have it's own resistor inside and sharing a single sensor (intake temp, mas, cam/crank, any of those) is just simply not possible - you will get skewed readings in both ecu's so neither one will be correct...
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Old 07-22-13, 03:59 AM   #28
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Looks good, however I do want to warn you about on issue - the temperature sender. You said because they use the same voltage range, you shared the one sensor - unfortunately this will not work. Each ECU will have it's own resistor inside and sharing a single sensor (intake temp, mas, cam/crank, any of those) is just simply not possible - you will get skewed readings in both ecu's so neither one will be correct...
Thanks, I had actually wondered if this would present any issues but figutred I would give it a shot. I'll just install the temp sensor off the 2J and run two sensors.
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Old 07-23-13, 09:46 AM   #29
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So I got a call from my home owners insurance company and since we are just switching to them they came out to do a home inspection and it turns out I won't have home owners insurance if the donor car isn't gone ASAP. If anyone is local (or willing to drive a bit) the whole car is for sale. I realize this is a Lexus forum but if any one is intersted please let me know.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3954323411.html

I really do need this gone now.
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Old 07-27-13, 07:19 PM   #30
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Today was a pretty productive day. I got my intake painted last night and assembled this morning.



I had to splice together a couple elbows to make the lower radiator hose. However the upper radiator hose was an easy one to match up. This came from a 2005-2010 Cobalt/G5. Also go the heater hoses cut and installed.




The battery is in the trunk and all the cables are pulled and hooked up. I still need to make up the power steering high pressure hose.

I still need to get VATS tuned out of the ECU (may happen tomorrow) and I discovered today that I didn't hook up the Neutral Safety Switch so I'll need to do that tomorrow before I try to start it up.
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