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Old 06-12-13, 01:47 PM   #61
Ali SC3
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Originally Posted by Tabaka View Post
So it's safe to say that I'm probably going to create a WTB ad in the CL sale forums with the updated list that Ali provided. I'm also going to provide the prices that he's listed and see if people will be fair. I'll then cross reference the prices and items on this thread to see what you guys think.

Ali, that CXRacing kit is super cheap at $660. It includes:

- T70 Turbo, 4" Air Inlet
- Stainless Steel manifold
- 40mm 12 PSI Wastegate, with Dump tube
- Oil Feeding line kit, Sandwich
- 3" Downpipe

those are estimates I gave but they are pretty close except for maybe the 440's that price will depend on what kind you get and if they are aftermarket of not.

Just wanted to show you its possible to have a reliable budget build if you know whats up, I know because I did that myself when others said to swap.
alot of the generic parts for the 2jzge like the manifold and downpipe hold up pretty well, if you notice the different sellers all basically have the same design thats been out for like 5+ years now and keeps getting re-branded.

If you find the t70 to not be up to par you can later on down the road upgrade to a BW or something, but I find that psi is psi and maybe you get there a few 100 rpm''s slower, but keeping your .5L advantage will make up in that department and as long as the turbo works you will really enjoy it at the end of the day. If you can find a t61 kit that would be better for lower boost also.

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I would stick with your NA-T plan, I will be doing the same at some point. And your stock 5 speed should actually be fine until you went big power. There is a 97 stock 5 speed SC here in town that has been NA-T for years and his tranny is still holding up fine. I'm not sure what clutch he has though.
yeah the w58 can take 3-400hp for a good amount of time if you drive it right. mines been holding up fine for quite a while now.
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Old 06-12-13, 03:21 PM   #62
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I would go with the DM kit aside from the cx. Sure its 1k more but the quality on parts are far better.. I think. Plus the turbo DM supplies with there kits have quality parts inside them. Don't go cheap on that part of the build or else you'll have more problems when things starting breaking in and you ending up spending more down time and money. Do it right the first time.

Just my 2 cents from my recent build....
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Old 06-13-13, 08:58 AM   #63
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Ive got 2+ years in my kit with zero issues related to any of the parts in the kit. Its the Club Na-t kit, but its all the same stuff. 20k+ miles and its still cool.

I guess that quashes the whole "come back to bite you later" stuff. Thats more than some people get out of precision turbos

Im biased, because I know me... but take my word for someone that has actually daily driven his "cheaply" boosted SC.
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Old 06-13-13, 12:17 PM   #64
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I miss the NA-T forums but you guys have been great. There was a thread over at club NA-T that discussed how to properly drill into your oil pan for the feed line with pictures and details. Anyone have install photos, drill bit details, and how to properly tap the feed and drain lines?
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Old 06-13-13, 01:05 PM   #65
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for the return you need a stepped drill bit, you need a can of grease, and you need a 90 degree adapter for your drill.
put the 90 degree adapter on the drill cause the drill won't fit down there with the engine in the car. put the stepped bit on the adapter. dip the bit in grease and drill for a few seconds, wipe off the grease now filled with shavings with a cloth, dip the bit in the grease again, and repeat until you are through. the idea is the greased up bit catches most of the shavings, but you have to keep cleaning it. then repeat going even slower cause once you get through there will be more chances of shavings falling in, just take your time drill, wipe, dip, the drill , wipe, dip. you do that until the center hole is large enough.

then you can either tap the center hole itself for a large fitting which is kind of tricky, or you can tap the 2 small holes (already there) on the side and then bolt on an adapter fitting leaving just the hole you made open in the center.

for the feed line there isn't any drilling if you buy an 2jzge vvti union bolt it comes drilled and tapped, some re-thread it for their fitting or find a fitting that will fit right into it. I think the 1/8 npt is close but I want to say its actually like a British thread BSPT or something like that, which you can get a tee for online if you search but I stuck a regular fitting on there with some thread sealant and have had no issues at all. If you go to toyota and ask for one off a 98 supra non turbo it will be much less expensive than going to lexus and getting one from an IS300, and its the same part.
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Old 06-13-13, 07:27 PM   #66
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shane where are you at with your build? i deleted facebook so i cant creep on you anymore. when your ready for some serious business maybe ill grab grant and we will tackle it in a weekend
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Old 06-13-13, 08:38 PM   #67
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Nova! What's going on sir? I'm just creating a list of parts and figuring out the best solution. I've got a seriously annoying SCREECH when I start the car. I changed the serp thinking it was the issue but it's still there. It's like a metal on metal creeky noise only at start up. I had my clutch and starter changed last year and it's almost like a loud pilot bearing screech noise. I need to get a friend or coworker to start the car from the cabin so I can find the location.

Do you have any hands on knowledge of an NA-T install? Ali, Omar, and the other folks have been extremely helpful with my possible set up.
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Old 06-14-13, 07:33 AM   #68
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Please pull the motor Out , if you gonna replace the clutch and tap the oil pan at the same time clean/wash the engine bay .

Don't tap your pan while the engine is IN, just pull it out it only takes about 30min to Pull a 2jz out another Hour to drill and tap the pan.

I am a little busy right now with other SCs but if i am free I will help you.
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Old 06-14-13, 08:23 AM   #69
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Sorry to be Debbie douche over here but couldn't you put in a 1uz for less than a grand and have a rock solid motor with great torque, mean sound and unparalled reliability. when was the last time you heard of a Japanese V8 coupe????? JUst thinking about it from the same angle, I'm poe too!
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Old 06-14-13, 09:18 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksc4 View Post
Please pull the motor Out , if you gonna replace the clutch and tap the oil pan at the same time clean/wash the engine bay .

Don't tap your pan while the engine is IN, just pull it out it only takes about 30min to Pull a 2jz out another Hour to drill and tap the pan.

I am a little busy right now with other SCs but if i am free I will help you.
That is the right way to do it for sure, I am lazy and It would take me days to pull my motor out, but if you do yeah it you can take the pan off or at least have good access to it and its much easier to get the job done, or you can even take it to get a bung welded which is the best way to go in the longrun.

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Sorry to be Debbie douche over here but couldn't you put in a 1uz for less than a grand and have a rock solid motor with great torque, mean sound and unparalled reliability. when was the last time you heard of a Japanese V8 coupe????? JUst thinking about it from the same angle, I'm poe too!
when you have your mind set on boost, the power a stock 1uz makes won't cut it for long, and then they take alot more time and custom work to get more power. If you spend that cash on an na-t setup you can probably make double that power. plus you could just always buy a sc400.
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Old 06-14-13, 09:19 AM   #71
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1UZ isn't making 350hp kbb with a few upgrades.

Omar, don't worry, I'm in no hurry. It's going to take a while to collect all the parts. Maybe late August or September, how's your schedule that far out?
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Old 06-14-13, 09:29 AM   #72
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1UZ isn't making 350hp kbb with a few upgrades.

Omar, don't worry, I'm in no hurry. It's going to take a while to collect all the parts. Maybe late August or September, how's your schedule that far out?
Totally, TOTALLY understand it in your terms. And a paltry 250, 260 and lastly 290 from the SC V8s do pale in comparison. But whoever stops at the HP they have with a turbo setup especially with the block on these cars. Keeping my eye on this one. If you can make it happen, it would motivate me greatly. Tundra V8???..heard of it in whispers..lol
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Old 06-14-13, 10:57 AM   #73
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Ali- it takes me less time pulling the engine , than trying to drill and tap slowly and make sure you don't have any shavings left in the Oil pan.

August and September is not a good time for me in 3 weeks I will be free!!!

Let me know if that works for you.
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Old 06-14-13, 01:09 PM   #74
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Yeah you def have that down to a science and it makes sense when doing a bunch of work especially if doing the head gasket.
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Old 06-14-13, 01:19 PM   #75
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I drilled my an with an air drill in the car. Used a step drill and then just dumped like 2 gallons of oil thru it to get all the extra little shavings that might have gone thru. Havent had any issues. lol
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