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Old 06-08-13, 07:06 PM   #46
DuWerke
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I enjoy this saying...

Cheap, Fast, Reliable....you can only pick two.
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Old 06-08-13, 09:20 PM   #47
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I hear everyone and I definitely don't want to half a$s anything. Maybe a swap with twins is my best bet for my budget. A little harness extension project on the kitchen table and a a few friends for install day/weekend. I've got lots of accessories and new parts on my GE, I can just transplant them over. Guess I didn't account for a $4,000 NA-T built just to keep up with a Nissan Maxima.
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Old 06-08-13, 09:35 PM   #48
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nice build thread. Boost is def an expensive hobby but well worth it in the end... for your goals i would seriously go with the XS kit. My friend has the kit on his car with over 4k miles and no problems. I know all set ups are different but its worth the shot for your goals and if you want more power you can always just upgrade everything.
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Old 06-09-13, 04:54 AM   #49
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Tabaka have you gotten actual quotes of doing a 2jzgte swap for under 4k? It's just a little scary because your getting a enginge that you'd have to redo the maintenance all over again because of the unkown. I could be wrong but to me it just seems like if you take it to the shop they'd probably charge $2500-$3000 for the motor, another $1000 or so for labor, $1000 or so from dr. tweak, and then misc. stuff for a few hundred that's 5-6k. Or even if you do it yourself you'd still probably be at the same price range...don't quote me on this but it just seems like those were the usual numbers i've seen being thrown on the forums
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Old 06-09-13, 07:18 AM   #50
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Some what is your budget?

1jzgte maybe the best bet!! Rock it with the twins and save for a single .

At that time you won't have to buy coils, ignitor, map sensor, ecu, its already there.

I think the 1jz will be cheaper since you already have a trans for now..

Or like others have said give the xs power kit a try or the dm kit, your call .

Na-t, 1jzgte, 2jzgte got them all just do what your budget can allow you.
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Old 06-11-13, 10:58 AM   #51
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Not a bad idea, I might look into a 1JZ Omar. I would like to be around $2,000 - $2,500 total including the wire extension, clutch, and pressure plate. JEI in Manassas sells 1JZ's for $1,500 with an ECU and auto tranny. Will the bell housing on an auto 1JZ tranny bolt onto a W58?

I can take some accessories from the GE and transplant them over as most of them are brand new including the starter, power steering, alternator, water pump, and clutch fan. My clutch is new but it probably won't hold over 250hp....but maybe I'm wrong. It's just an OEM clutch that I replaced in February. Unless I get extremely lucky, the oil pan will also need to be transferred.

I can replace the timing belt and valve cover gaskets myself which will save a few bucks. I also need to buy or rent an engine lift which will add to the cost. I believe people practically give them away on craigslist, so I'll have to take a look around. Either way the summer is already flying by and I need to get this project completed by the end of August. Once that baby comes out I'll have zero time

Last edited by Tabaka; 06-11-13 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 06-11-13, 12:10 PM   #52
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Since you are on a tight budget , I would try to just buy the Engine w/o the auto trans because you won't need it and it won't sell fast.

Your W58 bellhousing work with both 2jz and 1jz, gte or ge.

Your stock clutch will work fine for now till you start making for great power.

Get one from a Soarer or Supra mk3 already, they already have the rear sump , clutch fan and fan blade less part you have to buy and less labor.

I have 2 hoists, you can borrow 1 if you want for free.

you can get a rear sump 1jz for $1k no trans and go from there it's cheaper than 1500.
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Old 06-11-13, 01:14 PM   #53
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With my stock clutch I lost 3 and 4th gear after a week at 9 psi, would just slip, but mine wasn't new.
the labor is the worst part if you are dropping a new engine in and have budget for it that's the time to do it unless you plan on doing it yourself later.
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Old 06-11-13, 01:16 PM   #54
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Thanks for the feedback Omar, I'm going to start my search this week and see if I can nail down an engine. I'd prefer to buy one from a local source to review it in person and possibly hear it crank. I also might take you up on the hoist rental offer. I have access to a Ford Expedition to transport the new engine, but need the hoist to get it out and also for the install.

Should I stay the hell away from VVTI 1JZ's? I read mixed reviews about VVTI installs.
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Old 06-11-13, 01:20 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali SC3 View Post
With my stock clutch I lost 3 and 4th gear after a week at 9 psi, would just slip, but mine wasn't new.
the labor is the worst part if you are dropping a new engine in and have budget for it that's the time to do it unless you plan on doing it yourself later.
No 3rd or 4th, sheeeit, gonna replace it then I just need something comfortable for daily driving when necessary. I plan on getting a sedan at the end of this year, but this will be a daily until then

ANY WHY ARE SO MANY AVAILABLE ENGINES FRONT SUMP????



Do people use Crowns and Chasers as derby cars in Japan or something? lol

Last edited by Tabaka; 06-11-13 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 06-11-13, 02:35 PM   #56
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vvti is going to add in cost and complications, also limited in ecu options but the stock single turbo is nice.

That being said alot of people not looking for huge power like the feel of the stock twins on the 1jz they spool very fast. I would go non-vvti 1jz raise the boost some and enjoy, later on for more power install some aristo 440cc injectors and rail (people practically give these away), slap on a boost cut controller and turn up the boost till those stock twins start to cry.

I still wouldn't be so quick to dismiss na-t. I payed the amount you have listed for just the turbo for a whole xspower manifold, generic 61mm turbo, and downpipe. you don't have to go name brand on everything at first, I thought I would be replacing alot of those parts down the line if or when they failed, but for some reason they all continue to work just fine.. maybe I installed them really well or something.
I built mine on a similar budget but I wouldn't drop down .5L of displacement on an unknown condition motor with turbos you will also not know how long they will last before they start to smoke, and then you have to go single or gamble on another set of twins. you might as well have an na-t with a generic manifold and turbo, or at least a generic manifold that will save you close to $400 on your list right there.
I do realize I am a bit na-t biased, but these days I really like the 2jzgte as much as a 2jzge na-t, its like 2 editions of the same great thing.

I revised your part list for more of a generic setup
generic manifold + Turbo + downpipe + wastegate (for example cxracing online): ~$700 (new)
Clutch and Pressure plate: $400 (new)
440 Injectors: $120
BOV: $80
Intercooler kit: $300'ish
GTE ECU: $100*
Coil packs: ~$150*
DS-62 ignitor = $30
2j map sensor + Iat = 120
various gaskets and oil feed lines: $100
TOTAL = ~2100

being able to make much more power per psi than a 1jz and for a similar price also getting a single turbo APU+ designation = priceless.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-11-13 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 06-11-13, 02:38 PM   #57
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The main reason I advocate against a swap is because you are discarding an engine that is better. Not leaps and bounds better, but better. Plus, doing NA-T is actually less complicated and less things to deal with. If you spent the time to start rounding up the parts you need, vs buying a kit, yeah you could maybe save money... but you would spend more time. In the end, you will do yourself more of a favor by just building the engine that you have.
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Old 06-12-13, 09:23 AM   #58
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^^i agree with this for the simple fact you know the condition of the motor that is in your car already. If you get a swap your going to want to tear it down to inspect it and if parts needs to be replaced thts more money that you have to shell out on top of other things. I say just do a na-t swap and run low boost since your goals are low.
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Old 06-12-13, 11:35 AM   #59
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So it's safe to say that I'm probably going to create a WTB ad in the CL sale forums with the updated list that Ali provided. I'm also going to provide the prices that he's listed and see if people will be fair. I'll then cross reference the prices and items on this thread to see what you guys think.

Ali, that CXRacing kit is super cheap at $660. It includes:

- T70 Turbo, 4" Air Inlet
- Stainless Steel manifold
- 40mm 12 PSI Wastegate, with Dump tube
- Oil Feeding line kit, Sandwich
- 3" Downpipe

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Old 06-12-13, 12:08 PM   #60
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I would stick with your NA-T plan, I will be doing the same at some point. And your stock 5 speed should actually be fine until you went big power. There is a 97 stock 5 speed SC here in town that has been NA-T for years and his tranny is still holding up fine. I'm not sure what clutch he has though.
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