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the only things that need a torque wrench are your wheel lugs and your head studs.
you could use a torque wrench on most things, but its not necessary just be sure not to hulk anything that goes into aluminum it should be tightened down snug for the most part.
I generally just grab a smaller wrench like 1/4" socket size if working on aluminum so its actually harder to over torque it.
the cylinder head is aluminum which is why you should make sure the studs go in all the way before putting the manifold on and tightening it down.
if they are not in all the way then when you tighten the nut down you will pull out some of the threads, but I have done it dozens of times on dozens of toyota motors the old studs come out (sometimes a pain), and the new ones go in pretty easy, and not had anything strip out on me yet (key is to take your time).
Don't use the vice grip on the threads just in case you have to use that stud if you can't get it off you don't want mangled threads, on the top of the stud there is a star pattern for a fitting that is used to remove the studs, I never had much luck with the actual tool but this is where I clamp down on the head of the stud as hard as I can with the vice grips, then move it just a hair counter clockwise should crack the stud free, sometimes give it a tap with another tool to "break" the rust seal that occurs over time. this way the threads aren't damaged and you can still get enough torque to break it free. attempt at your own risk though =)
getting a shop to do it is not a bad idea but if you got that far you can likely do it.
Thanks again for the tips. Very much appreciated. The last line is my thinking as well. We got pretty dang far with a lot patients Will give it a try this weekend before I send to a shop. Will grab some Kroil or wd and spray it the night before. Car has to go to the shop either way to weld on my BOV flange and to link up the single downpipe to my current exhaust setup as well as button up my Intercooler up pipe if we can't. I just would love to mount it all up to minimize un necessary shops charges
I have a feeling you will be able to make it work, just read what I wrote a few times. yeah soaking it the night before is a great idea, they don't torque the studs into the head they are hand tightened in there from factory, so its basically just rust and grime holding them in place at this point.
I know people that change all the studs everytime they throw a manifold on there, you can get an exhaust stud kit for these motors. its a good idea cause if you keep reusing the same factory ones, they will get more rust and bend easier over time, and then you run into more issues. replace them with good bolts, and the next time you have to take the manifold off, you should be in much better shape and likely not even have to replace them for another 100k.
Small update. Haven't made it to the studs just yet. Noticed a pin hole in the manifold that totally threw me off course. After contemplating my fate I figured to try and salvage it and basically any seat time before the winter comes as I can't afford a big $$$ manifold this year. Next year yes but I need this car to be able to move under it's own power until then. I took it to mufflex in NJ and the welder patched it right quick and slapped on a brace for me to boot in a 1/2 hr. Once I receive a set of shortened supra studs i'll give it a try again. The one good thing that came out of this is that I now clearly have a custom exhaust shop that can do everything exhaust wise and Tig welding wise. Specifically custom exhaust & intercooler pipe setups. I'll def have them fab my exhaust up. Thinking of staying stealth with a black dual setup like I have now only with 3" tubing from the turbo back. Now it goes from 3" to dual 2.36" or similar Diameter I believe.
Well thanks for the confidence Ali I said eff it and just did it. After a week of letting it sit with WD40 they came out with little to no effort. I just used 2 oem bolts and a 14mm.
Gotta re clock the turbo. This is just mock up with the pos gasket that came with the manifold. I have the oem replacement and just waiting on the shorter bolts. These almost touch the manifold on the bottom.
Done. Import Intelligence completed all the welding. Custom downpipe, waste gate and IC piping. Best of all no more smoking YAY! Drove home about 100 miles straight. kept her under 4-5000 rpm just to be safe and be sure to just make it home. I did and no more smoking exhaust. Without a tune I wont be driving much and if I do it will be just low rpm cruising. I'm good for now. Next year = standalone ECU, R154 or better, coilovers, susp bits, body kit and wheels.
Impressions the morning after? Animal after 4000rpm. Love the car again. While this BW spools later than the twins pulling with this thing is just straight addictive now. Again I won't be pulling hard without a tune so cruising for now with an occasional rip to 6000. Still on gutted stock exhaust and I'm kinda of digging it even more now lol
So in love with this car again.... Eff me man after all these years I was wondering if it was gonna be worth it and I
m thankfully surprised it is. Way better than I expected. Running 11PSI as is and I love her
Just a recap:
Borg warner S362 FMW Twin scroll .91 AR
Tial 11PSI waste gate spring ( boost cut is 12 psi from the factory I think)
Tial 10PSI Bov spring ( seems great so far)
Stock JDM ECU
So far she drives great. No hot start issues. Clean and crisp in the lower rpm. Havn't taken it past 55 - 6000 yet. Driving like an old lady until I get a tune and R154 or better trans Thanks again to Matt and Brian @ Import Intelligence for completing her!!!
What is the general consensus with regards to clutch fan vs electric? Considering going electric when I order a new TT fan shroud. This is mostly a Highway car for sure. Mostly will be staying between 3rd & 5th
Thanks hm. Off topic wondering now if I should use a Apexi or emanage piggy for the time being. I just cant drop another few G's right now on a complete unit & tune.
Just a recap:
Borg warner S362 FMW Twin scroll .91 AR
Tial 11PSI waste gate spring ( boost cut is 12 psi from the factory I think)
Tial 10PSI Bov spring ( seems great so far)
Stock JDM ECU
So far she drives great. No hot start issues. Clean and crisp in the lower rpm. Havn't taken it past 55 - 6000 yet. Driving like an old lady until I get a tune and R154 or better trans Thanks again to Matt and Brian @ Import Intelligence for completing her!!!
Looks awesome congrats on the setup, I knew you could get those exhaust studs tackled up.
you are only running 11 psi on that beast? crank that thing up to 14 boost cut is around there somewhere. I have run like 18 psi on the stock jdm ecu with 440's but my turbo might flow a little less, if you have a wideband gauge and can wach it just make sure you are in the 11-12 range fuel wise. nothing higher than 12.5 or you need to back off it.
get a manual boost controller, they are simple. even if you set it to 12 psi you will get a bunch more power and faster spool cause what happens is without one the wastegate creeps open so at like 8 psi the wastegate starts to crack some so its slower to build to 11 psi (gate fully open at this pressure). so the boost controller has a spring in it so it willl creep instead, and only when you get to 11 psi (or wherever its set) will the wastegate even begin to crack open. this results in some delicious amount of faster spool, which you need with a single turbo like that.
you don't need a standalone to run that faster, you just need a piggyback that can raise the boost cut and some 550cc injectors. you should be good for 18 psi like that on your setup on pump gas or maybe more each car /turbo is different. I run a map ecu piggyback, it lets me raise and set the boost cut to whatever I want, so I have mine raised to 20 psi and I run 14 psi on low boost and 18 psi on high boost. if it ever goes above that the ecu cuts off at 20 which is nice. also it gives control over the fueling when used with 550cc injectors you get alot more fuel overhead to keep the turbo happy and rich.
going with a standalone will be much more of a headache and need tuning and cold starts in winter need to be tuned again.. unless you need the extra standalone features a piggyback will get you where you need to be without all that fuss (I up/downgraded from an aem v1 to a jdm supra 6 speed ecu + map ecu combo). I run the map ecu piggyback on mine. the e-manage does a similar thing to the map ecu but its not as common over here. on clutch fans vs efans the only efans I would run are IS300 ones, but still the clutch fan is the best. stock clutch fan is what I prefer to use.
if you install the popular greddy boost cut controller, do note that it removes boost cut completely, as in no safety net for overboosting. that is why I don't run these but lots do.
Originally Posted by Highway
Thanks hm. Off topic wondering now if I should use a Apexi or emanage piggy for the time being. I just cant drop another few G's right now on a complete unit & tune.
you wil need to upgrade to 550's which is easy and shouldn't be a problem since you are gte grab some off a USDM model.
find a used map ecu v1. the v2 and v3 have extra features but do mostly the same stuff for our ecu's the v1 does the job. the emanage can do similar but I am not familiar with setting those up.
Apexi safc you can use and its the easiest to setup and have running but it doesn't easily let you set where boost cut will be at anymore, but the act of using larger injectors and the safc will raise boost cut several psi from stock. setting exactly where boost cut happens is a feature I usually don't want to give up, which is why I use the map ecu myself instead of an safc.
need any more info on it just message me or something and I can check back in here also.
Looks awesome congrats on the setup,
need any more info on it just message me or something and I can check back in here also.
Man thanks a lot Ali again. As always very much appreciated and does give me more confidence now. Yup just running on wastegate pressure which is just under a 12psi Tial spring. Ideally I would like a piggy just for those reasons stated. Hot starts, cold starts, idle etc.. with the 4 seasons in NJ it would require a lot tuning or a very expensive ECU on top which can compensate. So done.. I will look into a decent piggy back. Will be getting AEM AFR and AEM true Boost Gauges very soon first and foremost. I would really like to address the trans before a complete standalone anyway.
looking good. If i was you though i would just save up for a decent standalone and enjoy the car on stock ecu for now. We both know how the NJ weather can get crazy at times and with a piggy you will always have to adjust the tune. With a good standalone you wont really have to worry that much. Do it right the first time so you dont have to spend more money in the end.
06-25-15, 12:17 PM
Will give it a try this weekend before I send to a shop. Will grab some Kroil or wd and spray it the night before. Car has to go to the shop either way to weld on my BOV flange and to link up the single downpipe to my current exhaust setup as well as button up my Intercooler up pipe if we can't. I just would love to mount it all up to minimize un necessary shops charges
