Highway

Got pretty far before some downpours this past weekend. All that is left is one manifold bolt and one biotch bolt. Now I can go 2 routes. Completely remove the downpipe and Frankenstein midpipe to access the mani bolt and go for the entire manifold or try the biotch bolt and go for the turbo assembly then the manifold. Will revisit in a week or so. In other news found a loose motor mount, non tightened sway bar, kinked hoses and mainly a kinked wastegate return line which may have caused the smoke whateva no turning back now! Feels good knowing little things like this won't happen this time around.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

good progress ... keep it up .

That is the very reason why many will prefer to go single right away... working with the stock twins is a biatch.

Highway

Thanks and yeah 100% I always learn the hard way. Gonna drop the downpipe\midpipe setup I have now and hopefully that'll give me the space I need to get some leverage for the last manifold bolt.

kez

iTrader: (4)

My back is hurting thinking about removing the stock twins SMH SMH

Highway

Yea Kez not fun but we effin did it. After 2-3 hours each weekend (3 in total) they are finally off for eva. Went to go mount the manifold only to find one stud hole needs a lil dremel lovin. Next weekend will mount it all. After that I will have to address the intake side turbo side IC piping as well as the intake side for the BOV. Then last but not least the downpipe to exhaust setup.. Damn it feels good to this thing ready

Highway

All layed out... Bay semi cleaned. IC shot after I realized how small it looks. Def will have to upgrade. This is one is rated for 600HP I think. If anyone needs anything LMK lmao

kez

iTrader: (4)

Is that the iced tea from the Chinese food place?

Highway

LMAO yes sir I'm afraid I'm addicted... Been drinking this stuff for years

kez

iTrader: (4)

Liquid crack that stuff is

Did you acquire an oil catch can yet

Highway

No but funny you mention this as I was actually checking some out. Just grabbed a new OEM Exhaust gasket and Extended Turbo Oil Drain. Hope to mock everything up this weekend then I figure out where I'm gonna go for the exhaust.

Highway

Well eff me.. Looks like some of the studs (3 in particular) are bent. Now I either notch the EFF out of stud holes on the manifold or replace them all with new OEM shortened studs. What would you guys do? Keep in mind I have never used a torque wrench and I don't really feel comfortable learning now on something that could go real bad real quick. My end solution would be sending her to a shop to replace all the studs and finish the install.

tjmhillz

iTrader: (6)

Depending on the cost to have a shop replace them, i would send it off. That way you would have a piece of mind and not have to worry if you torque it right. But then again if you have the right torque specs and a good torque wrench you should be good to go. Most wrenches you just set it for the right torque and it will either shake or make a click sound to let you know the right amount of torque has been applied.,

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you shouldn't need a torque wrench for the studs, hardest part is getting them out, a pair of really large vice grips like in the picture on the head can do the job, once they crack free you can back them out by hand and put the new ones in by hand. you don't tighten the new studs to a torque value you just make sure they are all the way in and then when you put the manifold and nut on then you do the tightening. you could use a torque wrench then but you can also just tighten it as much as you can unless you are using a breaker bar the exhaust studs are pretty strong.

Highway

Thinking of sending off for sure TJM but now thanks to Ali I may actually give it a try myself. I just assumed a TQ wrench should be used. More to come and thanks gents

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the only things that need a torque wrench are your wheel lugs and your head studs.
you could use a torque wrench on most things, but its not necessary just be sure not to hulk anything that goes into aluminum it should be tightened down snug for the most part.
I generally just grab a smaller wrench like 1/4" socket size if working on aluminum so its actually harder to over torque it.
the cylinder head is aluminum which is why you should make sure the studs go in all the way before putting the manifold on and tightening it down.
if they are not in all the way then when you tighten the nut down you will pull out some of the threads, but I have done it dozens of times on dozens of toyota motors the old studs come out (sometimes a pain), and the new ones go in pretty easy, and not had anything strip out on me yet (key is to take your time).

Don't use the vice grip on the threads just in case you have to use that stud if you can't get it off you don't want mangled threads, on the top of the stud there is a star pattern for a fitting that is used to remove the studs, I never had much luck with the actual tool but this is where I clamp down on the head of the stud as hard as I can with the vice grips, then move it just a hair counter clockwise should crack the stud free, sometimes give it a tap with another tool to "break" the rust seal that occurs over time. this way the threads aren't damaged and you can still get enough torque to break it free. attempt at your own risk though =)

getting a shop to do it is not a bad idea but if you got that far you can likely do it.