Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah after like 3 years the ones under the car got a little rusty but overall they were fine. you can get a big bag of extra's on ebay in the size you need when you need more. still using the silicone couplers to this day, I only ever had one go bad and thats the one that used to sit on top of the turbo to the stock throttle body which doesn't even come in the kit (2.5 > 3" reducer), but that area has just too much heat, and a turbo blanket is what solved that. never had problems with the ones that followed after the blanket.

Just make sure when you order them one at a time off ebay they have at least 3 ply silicone, and look at the picture to see the "stitching" on the end of it. the ply is layers and between every layer is a stitching, so a 4 ply you would see 3 lines of sticthing when looking at the end. these hold up very well. If you have a coupler with no stitching (single ply) , just go ahead and throw it in the trash it wont even last more than a few months if that.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Just wanted to update the thread. So far I have...

Turbo
manifold
oil feed/return
intercooler/pipes
injectors
OBDI lower runner
aem eugo
wastegate
bov
turbo spacer flange
GTE ecu/CoP's/TT MAF/MAP/DH61 Ignitor

Basically all I need now are bolts/couplers/pins and wires/heat shrink. Bunch of little crap. I am getting real nervous though that this is just gonna totally crash and burn so I'm not rushing it. Basically sitting on the parts. Sucks but ehh..Slowly going to start bolting everything together as a mock up then maybe do a test fit of everything on a weekend that I have free time.

edit: Also just curious...is there a way to test out my ecu on a Supra to make sure its 100% working with no issues? Just wondering so that way on install date I can be CERTAIN that the ecu is a fully functional one which I'm sure it is since its a "newer" 1997 one.

SUPER LATE DOUBLE EDIT: Switching from the USDM setup to a JDM one.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Some good and bad news. Recently my car stared falling apart on me...the front wheels tilt and bounce back on every turn and its to the point where it feels like an old high milage not well kept Hyundai. In reverse it clunks so hard you feel it in your seat and it recently started smelling like "burnt" and an electrical gremlin started messing with my HVAC system and there is a hardcore "electrical click" sound coming from under the hood. Thankfully my very good friend who was a master mechanic at Mercedes now works for the new Lexus dealership in SA, TX and I took it to him. They gave me a free loaner which is nice. Got a brand new 2015 ES 350 with only 13 miles on her.

So it's bad that my car is getting old but good that it's getting fixed. Also the other day a wooden crate chunk on the highway taking up an entire lane tore off almost every piece of undercarriage my poor car had. I couldn't avoid it since a car was right next to my passenger side and the shoulder was on my left. There was plastic crap hanging from all over under my car

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

NA-T ON HOLD.

Current build...

Brand new Supra TT BBK with slotted StopTech rotors.
Switching to a Supra high pressure power steering line assembly since mine got trashed on the highway
Front and Rear control arm bushings kit
Either Megan Racing or Supra TT TRD motor mounts and a new trans mount. Still doing research on this.
New rims, probably Enkei NTO3 in SBC finish in 17's by 9.5 with a +22 offset all around.
Also might go down a half inch or inch on my PBM coilovers.

Wish me luck.

edit: A question on control arm bushings. I have found several kits, both prothane and rubber, but the years of application are from 1992-1996 and I am curious if these just will not fit a 1997 SC300? Thanks for any clarification given.

Also if anyone could just point me to the direction of a kit for all the front upper and lower control arm bushings that would be sweet..again for a 1997. Or even an entire kit for the entire car, including sway bar bushings. Thanks.

double edit: Who is running the Megan Racing motor mounts, TT TRD motor mounts, or Stock TT motor mounts and have any of you made comparisons between any of these? I really would like the MOST STIFF ones available as that is what I'm going for with my car. I do not care for the luxury rubber boat smooth ride aspect but at the same time I doubt I want solid mounts.

Again all questions are pertaining to a 1997 Lexus SC300

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

I would buy the PHR high pressure powering steering line....I was able to get mine for around $75

Also the amount of work and effort required to press in new bushings...it is easier just to buy new replacement control arms...

I would go with at least 18's unless you are getting TT wheels...17's are to small

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I'll check out the PHR one...why do you recommend it over the TT Supra one?
Also I'll consider that about the bushings and control arms. Any recommendations for control arm brands? I just figured bushings all around is cheaper than control arms all around.

I might just get 18's in the plain silver color and paint then later down the road. Maybe even cheap plasti-dip for a while.

edit: Just checked out the line and yeah it looks great. Also going straight from the pump to the rack is great. Deletes all the extra line. Should I do it?

double edit: Impulse buy, I bought it. I'll pick between the 2 and sell the other one or return it.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

I have it......works great....just pick up some extra crush washers for a tight seal...mine didnt come with any for some reason

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Beautiful. Thanks for the photo too. Glad I picked it up.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

No problem.....its a very high quality piece....plus since you plan on going NA-T it will help clear up some space for easier routing of intercooler piping

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Just recieved mine and also didn't come with copper crush washers. About how many washers on each end?

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

I reused the factory crush washers from the banjo bolt.....on the pump side you should be fine without any but on the rack I had to use 2.... just cut the tabs off the original copper crush washer on the rack and boom you have 2 now

if you look close at the rack on the pic above you can see what im talking about

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

What do we do with the vacuum lines just cap em' off?

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Went ahead and just left the vac lines capped off. If anyone see's this and wants to share what they did please do. It's the 2 vac lines coming from one of the 2 sensors. Also...both sensors got deleted.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Brakes work great. No shim kit so a little rattly.
Power steering line installed, no leak yet. Still a random whine n grind if turning on inclines while breaking ect. Might just need a better bleeding.

Just ordered some XXR 527 chromium black 18x9.5 +20 all around. Should be aggressive and it will clear my brakes. Once those are on and done I'll do more research on bushings and mounts etc.

Currently thinking of just parting the turbo kit for dirt cheap. Don't really care for it anymore. It's a floating thought. Anyway I'll post pics of everything once it's done and the weather is better.

Over and out.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Great work....those wheels may be a little to aggressive on the front depending tire size and may require a little pull but rear should be good with just a roll

I would do 18x9.75+20 with a 265 rear and 18x8.75 +20 with a 245 front

Honestly IMO a stock Aristo motor can be had for around $2500..they come with ECU an everything..will bolt right up to your W58 and with the Aristo ECU will convert car to OBD1...i.e easy tuning if decide to upgrage to single turbo later

With a few BPU's can have a reliable 300-350 hp car

It may be cheaper in the long run....and your car will run and drive like a factory car