My slooowww build thread. Take 2.
07-17-13, 10:40 AM
#31
yeah you guys should be fine around that power level, I have been running 14 psi for a while now the w58 can take it but just give it that extra second between gears, if you have to downshift into boost to take off.. do that shift slowly don't worry you will catch back up once you are in gear.
the shaft play sounds fine, try not to spin it a whole bunch if you have to put some oil in the center section and then the play should decrease also.
Manifold wise I opt for the universals although the driftmotion one is not much more coin. since you are going coil on plug, you won't have to worry about distributor clearance, which is the main problem with the universals. many use them and I haven't seen any turbo's fall off a JZ on here yet.
the shaft play sounds fine, try not to spin it a whole bunch if you have to put some oil in the center section and then the play should decrease also.
Manifold wise I opt for the universals although the driftmotion one is not much more coin. since you are going coil on plug, you won't have to worry about distributor clearance, which is the main problem with the universals. many use them and I haven't seen any turbo's fall off a JZ on here yet.
07-17-13, 11:49 AM
#32
yeah you guys should be fine around that power level, I have been running 14 psi for a while now the w58 can take it but just give it that extra second between gears, if you have to downshift into boost to take off.. do that shift slowly don't worry you will catch back up once you are in gear.
the shaft play sounds fine, try not to spin it a whole bunch if you have to put some oil in the center section and then the play should decrease also.
Manifold wise I opt for the universals although the driftmotion one is not much more coin. since you are going coil on plug, you won't have to worry about distributor clearance, which is the main problem with the universals. many use them and I haven't seen any turbo's fall off a JZ on here yet.
the shaft play sounds fine, try not to spin it a whole bunch if you have to put some oil in the center section and then the play should decrease also.
Manifold wise I opt for the universals although the driftmotion one is not much more coin. since you are going coil on plug, you won't have to worry about distributor clearance, which is the main problem with the universals. many use them and I haven't seen any turbo's fall off a JZ on here yet.
07-17-13, 12:43 PM
#33
you mean the hotside or the turbine housing, don't think you want to paint the front of the turbo =)
yeah as long as its just the housing, I wouldn't stick the whole turbo in there or anything like that but those parts see temps much hotter than an oven on a regular basis, so you should be fine.
Some just use the first start up as the bake, then let it cool down, and that cylcles is but its not as nice as doing it the right way.
good luck with getting the housing off also, thats where mileage on the turbo can come into play if its never been opened before, some come off easy, some you gotta use a vice on the center cartridge and whale on it with a deadblow hammer while torching it from various angles, but from looking at the turbo it looks in good shape it should be more the comes off easily type.
yeah as long as its just the housing, I wouldn't stick the whole turbo in there or anything like that but those parts see temps much hotter than an oven on a regular basis, so you should be fine.
Some just use the first start up as the bake, then let it cool down, and that cylcles is but its not as nice as doing it the right way.
good luck with getting the housing off also, thats where mileage on the turbo can come into play if its never been opened before, some come off easy, some you gotta use a vice on the center cartridge and whale on it with a deadblow hammer while torching it from various angles, but from looking at the turbo it looks in good shape it should be more the comes off easily type.
07-17-13, 12:47 PM
#34
you mean the hotside or the turbine housing, don't think you want to paint the front of the turbo =)
yeah as long as its just the housing, I wouldn't stick the whole turbo in there or anything like that but those parts see temps much hotter than an oven on a regular basis, so you should be fine.
Some just use the first start up as the bake, then let it cool down, and that cylcles is but its not as nice as doing it the right way.
good luck with getting the housing off also, thats where mileage on the turbo can come into play if its never been opened before, some come off easy, some you gotta use a vice on the center cartridge and whale on it with a deadblow hammer while torching it from various angles, but from looking at the turbo it looks in good shape it should be more the comes off easily type.
yeah as long as its just the housing, I wouldn't stick the whole turbo in there or anything like that but those parts see temps much hotter than an oven on a regular basis, so you should be fine.
Some just use the first start up as the bake, then let it cool down, and that cylcles is but its not as nice as doing it the right way.
good luck with getting the housing off also, thats where mileage on the turbo can come into play if its never been opened before, some come off easy, some you gotta use a vice on the center cartridge and whale on it with a deadblow hammer while torching it from various angles, but from looking at the turbo it looks in good shape it should be more the comes off easily type.
07-18-13, 08:05 AM
#35
I see, yeah that should be fine just take it easy with the heat. the bolt is probably a m8 or m10 or something like that, you can contact them or just take the one next to it out and find a copy at ace they usually have all the Metric bolts, match both the thread and length and go shorter if you have to rather than longer.
07-18-13, 10:16 PM
#37
I see, yeah that should be fine just take it easy with the heat. the bolt is probably a m8 or m10 or something like that, you can contact them or just take the one next to it out and find a copy at ace they usually have all the Metric bolts, match both the thread and length and go shorter if you have to rather than longer.
Very good very good.
07-19-13, 01:30 AM
#38
Before
After
Came out exactly as I wanted with a Caution red hot color. It's simple VHT 2000 degree flame proof header paint with a silica/ceramic contents. Let us see how long it lasts once on the car. Cured it exactly as it states on the can.
After
Came out exactly as I wanted with a Caution red hot color. It's simple VHT 2000 degree flame proof header paint with a silica/ceramic contents. Let us see how long it lasts once on the car. Cured it exactly as it states on the can.
07-23-13, 11:28 AM
#41
Thank you sir
Do it!
So I decided to not do the TT headgasket nor the ARP headstuds. I'm only running 12 psi for now and with a stable set up and tune coming from the GTE ecu, I'll trust that my current headgasket will be fine. When I upgrade the tranny and plan for more boost, then I'll do the headgasket and arp headstuds. I'd rather not open up the motor seeing as how I've been MORE than diligent with my oil changes and regular maintenance. I trust the headgasket is in fine shape and more than ready to handle 12 psi.
Do it!
So I decided to not do the TT headgasket nor the ARP headstuds. I'm only running 12 psi for now and with a stable set up and tune coming from the GTE ecu, I'll trust that my current headgasket will be fine. When I upgrade the tranny and plan for more boost, then I'll do the headgasket and arp headstuds. I'd rather not open up the motor seeing as how I've been MORE than diligent with my oil changes and regular maintenance. I trust the headgasket is in fine shape and more than ready to handle 12 psi.
07-23-13, 01:35 PM
#43
That's one fire engine red turbine, looks great!
I decided to move forward with the headgasket and ARP studs. I know it's going to add another $265 to my build, but I'd rather just get it done rather than wait for it down the road. Plus this will be the opportunity to change out a few seals like the cams. I might just rip out those cam gears for some nicer looking ones anyways
I decided to move forward with the headgasket and ARP studs. I know it's going to add another $265 to my build, but I'd rather just get it done rather than wait for it down the road. Plus this will be the opportunity to change out a few seals like the cams. I might just rip out those cam gears for some nicer looking ones anyways
07-23-13, 06:33 PM
#44
Hopefully 12 psi is okay. I'd HATE a blown hg. But oh well we'll see what happens.
See I just had a timing belt change along with cam seals as well. I'd hate to open up the motor now.
If anything I'd get a shop to do it...
That's one fire engine red turbine, looks great!
I decided to move forward with the headgasket and ARP studs. I know it's going to add another $265 to my build, but I'd rather just get it done rather than wait for it down the road. Plus this will be the opportunity to change out a few seals like the cams. I might just rip out those cam gears for some nicer looking ones anyways
I decided to move forward with the headgasket and ARP studs. I know it's going to add another $265 to my build, but I'd rather just get it done rather than wait for it down the road. Plus this will be the opportunity to change out a few seals like the cams. I might just rip out those cam gears for some nicer looking ones anyways
If anything I'd get a shop to do it...
Rarely see a painted turbo painted like that looks good