ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Hello again. This thread will be the official chronicle of my endeavor to get my car to where I want it to be. A few of the members here remember my last NA-T attempt...and it is regrettable how I gave up on that, HOWEVER, I was young dumb and all "go fast go fast" minded. This time I am taking my sweet time and doing it the right way and the way I want, however...I accept input. Obviously I do not know everything which is why I am starting this thread. Help/opinions on questions. Lots of knowledge on here and I intend to squeeze out as much of it as I can.Anyhow I am older now, a bit wiser, more patient and more experienced with cars since I was able to work as a mechanic for a while where I got a lot of formerly stated, experience.

So...this is, like titled, a slow build thread and I mean slow. I basically am picking up parts here and there getting good prices on quality stuff when I can. This will not be a pic heavy thread yet since I'm only gathering parts. However, I want to have a place to keep track of stuff and questions and answers.

Parts I have so far:
1997 GTE 6spd ECU
USDM TT MAF
USDM TT MAP
VVT-i COP with wires
VVT-i ignitor
RC 550cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump (Going to replace with Denso TT sometime)
AEM UEGO kit for AFR's
HKS SSQ blow off valve (earlier model with adjustability)
Intercooler (forgot brand but it's from last time)
TiAL 40mm Sport wastegate
Precision 61mm 6376 turbo
XS-POWER exhaust manifold
Oil feed
Oil filter sandwich adapter plate

Parts I plan to get with in the next 6-12 months haha long time I know
Boost gauge
return line
Intercooler piping/pipe with bov flange and o-snap ring
turbo downpipe
Misc. bolts/wiring/clamps/couplers

At the moment thats all that comes to mind. Basically it's a budget build that will work well. Thanks for watching. I'll update whenever I need to or get a new part. I'll post pictures too sometime. Oh and if anyone wants to donate parts...I'll gladly give your unwanted things a home. Jk..but seriously. Trust me...I'm taking my sweet time on this one so expect this thread to disappear and reappear randomly. Take care.

Best,
Carlos

jwin

iTrader: (16)

Good luck on the build. Can't wait to see this thing boosted.

1sWt2GS

iTrader: (6)

Why the fail on the na-t first time around?

sc4demon

iTrader: (2)

good luck bro. i hope to see this thing boosted man

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Its my opinion that you should buy the pieces for your turbo kit, the Dave H manifold is ugly as hell. You can get a used tubular mani on SF or here for cheap... or you can run the ebay (xspower) mani. I run it and have had zero issues with it in over 2 years and 30k miles.

Get the turbo you want, buy a good used one and make it the central part of your setup.

Ive purchased or 20k worth of stuff between the 2 sites and spent not even half that.

Get your boost gauge before your turbo goes on. Thats a necessity.

I also personally recommend keeping the stock fan and radiator. Saves you money and its an unnecessary expense. They work well up to a really powerful setup.

If you can, ditch the MAF setup and go strictly speed density. Either jdm ecu or full standalone.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, jwin.
I did not anticipate issues and ran out of money when they hit. It was my daily driver so had to pull the plug.
Thank you
Reason I liked the dave-h manifold is because it looks like it'll clear more turbos without hitting the throttle body intake pipe. But I am still open to options and searching around still. Do you mean install the boost gauge before the turbo goes on or just make sure to have them both at the same time? If the former then okay. Thanks for the advice on the fan and radiator I was iffy on it.

As for ditching the maf, I already got the OBDII USDM ecu so I might just stick with it. I've seen guys on supra forums make very nice power with the setup I'm going for. I will not go standalone, cant afford the unit plus a tune.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I meant the same time. Keep your mind open to standalone. Its not as pricey as it seems once you get to it.

Ive still got the stock intake and im running a big turbo with a tubular manifold. Im changing to a ffim, but still. I just think its a hideous part and looks like a redneck fabjob. Its my opinion, so take it for what its worth but id never run it in my car. You can make a lot of nice things work and not have to sacrifice quality or looks for fitment. Check my original build thread, ill be updating my new o e in a few days too.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

All your info is good and I'm still open to standalone since this build is gonna last a very long time. I just know I've read that standalone can sometimes act funny in different weather (cold/hot) situations and idle is weird at start up for some. The reason I like the setup I'm aiming for is because of the OEM'ness of it...if that makes sense. Just looked at ebay and there are a lot of nice prices.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Quick question. What wastegate size should I go with? Planning to boost to a max of 1 bar or anything under that. Also what brands should I consider besides TiAL? Also is it safe to assume that dual wastegates are personal preference? What does a dual wastegate actually do over just one? Which CPS should I get by the way?

Here are some pictures for simple viewing.
Polished ecu : ) simple bored late night waxing.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Just a little bored and I wanna fiddle around with something so I'd like some opinions...I got a TiAL 40mm Sport wastegate and it is used but great looking condition, however, used is used. I was considering taking it apart, cleaning it with only degreaser and a soft polish pad and putting a high temp anti-seize in there. Is this worth doing? I figure it couldn't hurt?


Thanks,
ASHTRAY

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

If you just have to, sure. I wouldnt put anything in it tho. Just clean and reassemble. The valve is the only thing that could use a lube. antiseize might be ok.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

just make sure you don't damage the diaphragm inside that's the most important part, handle it like its delicate paper (its actually tougher than that though). also used parts that are subjected to extreme heat may be more likely to have seized bolts or more likely to strip threads so be carefull and don't overtorque anything. If its working right I would even say clean the outside and leave the inside alone, you can test the operation with an air compressor set to the right psi ~15 or just more than your spring inside, don't put like 80 psi through it or you can damage it.
looks like you have a good parts collection going, like the shiny ecu for sure.
you will be happy with the 2jzgte ecu once you get it setup, and you shouldn't get the 7m cps, just use the stock distributor and remove the cap and rotor, and either make a custom shorter cap for it or stick the stock one back on to keep the dust/dirt out.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Just an update to my parts list...

Just got a Precision 6376 .68 A/R turbo. Slightly used but excellent condition from the looks of it. Once I get her in I'll clean her up and snap some pictures for everyone.

Does anyone know of any at home "cook in the oven" high temp coatings I can maybe do on the exhaust housing? I hate that rusted cast iron look and haven't looked into ceramic coating but that seems pricey.

edit: This is the last high dollar item. So from here its much smaller items that dont require much money saving time so hopefully the parts gathering ends sooner than later and I can start planning out every detail of the GTE ecu mod and COP conversion.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I usually stick a blanket on there and squish it between the turbo and the intake pipe. Coating should help also.