My 2jzgte swap
08-12-13, 03:59 PM
#62
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I have a question about the swap, are all models required to move pins on the gray plug, because I didnt have a shift lock when i turned it on. the car runs and everything. I have several lights on and I know i have to pull the vcs bulbs but my windshield washer light is on but I topped it off, my oil light is on and when I go over a certain rpm my check engine comes on and stays on until I shut off the car and its off again when i turn it back on also my ECT starts flashing when my check engine light goes on. once the check engine turns on. the car shifts early and down shift quick when i get off the gas. It seems to bog if I floor it and when that happens it feels like im just making noise and not really going anywhere like a civic lol. I havent run my tach wire yet so cant really reference any rpms but if i floor it and it reaches a certain rpm it will bog and i wont accelerate. Are these the simtons of limp mode and if so wich wires do i move to and where do they go on the plug. I still need to run my tach line will that fix any other lights on the dash or just make the tach work? And do i just cut and soder the wire to where it goes on the body plug? thanks again for the help.
I cannot diagnose your exact symptoms, as It could be anything. Start with the small things, check then double check. I was experiencing those symptoms before (if you read the other pages ) and I had two bad and leaking turbos.
I didn't cut or solder the wire. I pulled the wire from old the GE harness, and placed it in the spot where it is blank on the GTE one from the ecu to the igniter. Another GTE thread covered it completely, that's where I got the info.
08-12-13, 04:03 PM
#63
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08-16-13, 03:58 PM
#64
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That sounds just like limp mode, which I just went through with the intercooler. Check all of your piping and connections. My issue was that I had the cheap keepers on. I had to order t clamps to keep the piping together.The car did not like keeping the piping together at full boost. around 14psi. The car sees solid boost and feels as if it is much quicker to respond.
I cannot diagnose your exact symptoms, as It could be anything. Start with the small things, check then double check. I was experiencing those symptoms before (if you read the other pages ) and I had two bad and leaking turbos.
I didn't cut or solder the wire. I pulled the wire from old the GE harness, and placed it in the spot where it is blank on the GTE one from the ecu to the igniter. Another GTE thread covered it completely, that's where I got the info.
I cannot diagnose your exact symptoms, as It could be anything. Start with the small things, check then double check. I was experiencing those symptoms before (if you read the other pages ) and I had two bad and leaking turbos.
I didn't cut or solder the wire. I pulled the wire from old the GE harness, and placed it in the spot where it is blank on the GTE one from the ecu to the igniter. Another GTE thread covered it completely, that's where I got the info.
08-17-13, 04:32 PM
#65
Driver
Thread Starter
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Its going to be the yellow and black wire from the white plug pictured. Im not sure about your lights, I had no lights on except vsc and trac and the bulbs were removed.
08-19-13, 08:55 AM
#66
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Thanks man I did that and my lights went out except for vcs. Now I got another problem. I ran out of gas the other night on my way to the gas station the fuel gauge said I had a quarter tank but it was really empty, I was trying to figure it out, looking for vaccum leaks and checking my sparks. The car started then died a few seconds later. I went home and remembered about the fuel gauge being off for everybody's swap so I put fuel the next morning and she started up so I went to the gas station and toped her off. On my way back the car started sputtering again as if I had no fuel, I pulled over and it shut off, it would turn on run for a few then die and every time I started it up it would die faster. Came back a few hours later and it started up and drove it home. After being on for 12 minutes it the idle starts to drop then it dies and again every time I turn it on I shuts off faster, I wait a few hours and turn it on, it last for about 12 minutes the. Does the same thing. Do you think there is air or something in my fuel lines or is it my pump taking a ****, I still get check engine when I drive, do you think I have to repin the gray plug that's next to the orange plug. I'm going to test my fuel pressure and see if my pump is going bad, do you know if 2jzgte motors have a place to plug in the fuel pressure tester or will I have to splice the fuel line with the tester
08-25-13, 01:29 PM
#67
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks man I did that and my lights went out except for vcs. Now I got another problem. I ran out of gas the other night on my way to the gas station the fuel gauge said I had a quarter tank but it was really empty, I was trying to figure it out, looking for vaccum leaks and checking my sparks. The car started then died a few seconds later. I went home and remembered about the fuel gauge being off for everybody's swap so I put fuel the next morning and she started up so I went to the gas station and toped her off. On my way back the car started sputtering again as if I had no fuel, I pulled over and it shut off, it would turn on run for a few then die and every time I started it up it would die faster. Came back a few hours later and it started up and drove it home. After being on for 12 minutes it the idle starts to drop then it dies and again every time I turn it on I shuts off faster, I wait a few hours and turn it on, it last for about 12 minutes the. Does the same thing. Do you think there is air or something in my fuel lines or is it my pump taking a ****, I still get check engine when I drive, do you think I have to repin the gray plug that's next to the orange plug. I'm going to test my fuel pressure and see if my pump is going bad, do you know if 2jzgte motors have a place to plug in the fuel pressure tester or will I have to splice the fuel line with the tester
One of the things I did was to change out my pump to the aristo pump that came with the swap. I don't know if your pump is bad or was on its last leg before the swap. I don't have any lights on in the car, but they all illuminate before startup like they should.
I don't know if/where you can plug the tester in. You may want to look in the forums or take it to a Toyota tech for diagnosis.
08-28-13, 02:07 PM
#68
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Damn, that's a tough question. I have never run out of gas in any of my cars, and the only two times I have had a sputtering issue in the lex was due to having the intercooler lines blow or pop off. My gauge is off an 1/8 th of a tank, but have never had any issues because I don't run the fuel that low.
One of the things I did was to change out my pump to the aristo pump that came with the swap. I don't know if your pump is bad or was on its last leg before the swap. I don't have any lights on in the car, but they all illuminate before startup like they should.
I don't know if/where you can plug the tester in. You may want to look in the forums or take it to a Toyota tech for diagnosis.
One of the things I did was to change out my pump to the aristo pump that came with the swap. I don't know if your pump is bad or was on its last leg before the swap. I don't have any lights on in the car, but they all illuminate before startup like they should.
I don't know if/where you can plug the tester in. You may want to look in the forums or take it to a Toyota tech for diagnosis.
08-29-13, 06:15 PM
#69
Driver
Thread Starter
Glad you got part of it fixed. I found that working on it and fixing these small things make it that much more fun to drive.
09-01-13, 08:18 AM
#70
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your right brother about that lol. I finally got it. the vss connector towards the rear was disconnected and broken so replaced it with the one from the gs. Now it runs like a champ. Now I can worry about my single turbo upgrade. and I might go manual too.
09-12-13, 01:35 AM
#71
good look
i like the mushroom style intakes...injectors matter if you are going to run single or not if your gonna keep the twins 1000cc more than enough .....gl on the piping ill post pix when its installed!!!!
09-15-13, 08:43 PM
#72
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No problem man, glad I could help someone out! I cant wait to see the car!
09-16-13, 08:18 AM
#73
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I'm from Houston and I've been kicking around the idea of doing this swap but keeping it factory GTE with exception of an intercooler. If I find a complete swap, (motor, turbos, trans, ecu and wiring), what all else is needed to complete the swap?
motor mounts?
do I have to upgrade fuel pump?
anything small, additional?
wire harness conversion kit? (I have a '98)
Also, from reading some other threads, some were saying you only have to connect 1 additional wire if you have a 98-01, which I'm presuming is what you were talking about up above a few posts. This is if you're disconnecting the GE ecu and replacing it with the GTE's ecu?
motor mounts?
do I have to upgrade fuel pump?
anything small, additional?
wire harness conversion kit? (I have a '98)
Also, from reading some other threads, some were saying you only have to connect 1 additional wire if you have a 98-01, which I'm presuming is what you were talking about up above a few posts. This is if you're disconnecting the GE ecu and replacing it with the GTE's ecu?
09-16-13, 07:29 PM
#75
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I'm from Houston and I've been kicking around the idea of doing this swap but keeping it factory GTE with exception of an intercooler. If I find a complete swap, (motor, turbos, trans, ecu and wiring), what all else is needed to complete the swap?
motor mounts?
do I have to upgrade fuel pump?
anything small, additional?
wire harness conversion kit? (I have a '98)
Also, from reading some other threads, some were saying you only have to connect 1 additional wire if you have a 98-01, which I'm presuming is what you were talking about up above a few posts. This is if you're disconnecting the GE ecu and replacing it with the GTE's ecu?
motor mounts?
do I have to upgrade fuel pump?
anything small, additional?
wire harness conversion kit? (I have a '98)
Also, from reading some other threads, some were saying you only have to connect 1 additional wire if you have a 98-01, which I'm presuming is what you were talking about up above a few posts. This is if you're disconnecting the GE ecu and replacing it with the GTE's ecu?