vbieds

Awesome setup

MCBob

A small update, clutch pedal and cylinder fitted with stock twins.

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Cars still a way off being done.

Got the electrics to do, but ive stripped the autobox and nicked all the elctrics out of it to help in the long run.

Biggest issue is vehicle speed sensor.

auto box has 2. one is engine speed, one is vehicle speed. afaik, the engine speed is a backup if the other one stops working so the box knows whats going on, so im not going to bother with that..
the vehicle speed one is an AC 2 pin signal on a 12 toothed ring which ive removed from the box, but isnt big enough to mount to any of the prop, so ill make one and see.

The R154 box uses a digital pulse signal, itd be good if i could convert this to work, but cant find any info on doing it..

Hydro was fine, i never had hesitation, but the resistance from the box and that was quite high and required a lot of car shaking prior to successfully lock it up. worth mentioning after 5 or so drift days and banging between gears, there was no dirt in the filter or the pan magnets of the auto..

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Link pins 6 and 9 on the multiplug to gearbox bypasses the neutral inhibitor. Baws.
Soldered up a relay so dash tells me in drive and the reverse switch kicks all the aristo reversing **** into action. Baws.

This may take a while as I want it stock looking inside, so ill be doing it the long way, but must not take more than 2 weeks or ill get upset.

Props being posted tommorow FTWIZ.

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So Ive got fed up with wiring the electrics for the speed sensor, just wont ****ing work. Think I need a dakota digital to convert the signal but so far no one has given me any advice and i cant see anyone else who has done it..!

so I started with the handbrake. Bolted it to the tunnel and done some welding to make it uber solid. Works like a treat but Im not getting the cable tight before Im hitting the back of the handbrake. Im not going to worry about it before getting the car on the road though as it may lock up okay. Should be better than a hydro anyway, and more importantly for me, look stock..




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Finished up the handbrake, it was level before but ive angled it upwards so its easier to use and sits nicely..



Heated up the ducting for the rear air vents and bent it round the shifter so the passengers dont moan..! Its more restrictive than originally designed, but im sure itll be fine..



Cut and welded the bottom bracket for the shifter as it would lean really far back for bottom selections. Much better, stock cup holders will have to move, will probably fab up two infront of the shifter as there is a lot of space there now.

Refitted the interior and got some errors on the dash. Checked with Techstream and it said YAW sensor was out of range. To reset this, the car has to be in park.. I had wired it up to be in drive or reverse gears respectively, so changed drive to park and the error cleared itself.
Got a feeling when the car is in park the ecu resets the tolerances for its G sensors, so will have to test drive to see if the ECU is happy driving thinking its in park. I think the REV limit might be reduced though..




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Lol!

Gutted my prop never turned up today, hopefully tommorow..

F1 Moto cut this out of steel for me, should be here tommorow. Its a design by wilbo666 - who is a legend for his material on his site for these toyotas - which will bolt to the front of the diff, and by mounting an abs sensor there, will give the ecu its original reading for vehicle speed.



Hopefully will have some more updates soon..

puff

iTrader: (4)

Looks good so far man. Only thing I think you should have bolted the hand brake a little further back that way the bracket do show but it still looks good. I'm glad I could use this thread as a reference point if I ever decide to go manual with my Aristo.

articmonke

bent what frames????

MCBob

The ones I kept making for the handbrake.

Mounted the triggr wheel and welded a bracket for the speed sensor to the diff.
I tried spinning the wheels by hand to see if I could see any movement on the dash but no chance lol.. The dash starts beeping though if you turn the wheels with a door open though so thats a good sign.

With the handbrake travel, there is a pivot bar above the propshaft, the handbrake Ive fitted only moves a tiny bit probably as the wheel which its pulled round is quite small.. So I cut the bar in half under the car and whilst it reaches full travel still, its pulling the cables a lot more, may just need to the adjustment for the drums doing which Ill do next.

Made a rubber case for around the gearstick to underneath to stop any **** getting in and hopefully cut down road noise.

Also cut a sheet of ally up and vinyl wrapped it black, added an audi a6 shifter gaitor and voila.. Black shifter ordered.



Propshaft got posted to the wrong place so hopefully will be here tommorow..!

MCBob

Couple guys came down tonight and helped me get it out the garage.

Bolted the prop up which is a lovely job by autoprop uk.

Refitted all the heatshields and ****. Drove out the garage and just round the block, its so so nice its unbelievable. Sounds incredible after running with an auto to a manual. 2JZ throttle blips = uhhhhhhhhhh so cool!!

Got no boost, but im sure somethings been disturbed, will tackle that tommorow..

MCBob

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1s986fzo9...520_203206.mp4

Bit of proof it does actually work,
firstly, its ****ing savage. To me anyway..

The electric throttle seems to hold back the revs when reapplying throttle after changing gear though, I think this is the ECU as with autobox youd just keep your foot planted. So Ill most likely investigate converting it to a cable throttle down the line.

Speedo works perfect and it revs at full power to redline which is v cool. Feels a joy to drive..

BUT

Anybody know about refurbing the bushes for the shifter? Or even a short shifter?

The throw on it is quite long and Id like to reduce that so it fits the console better lols. Also it has play in the linkage I think where it enters the box.

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So I changed the drum brakes, makes naff all difference tbh.
I think I need to have a look at changing the parts under the car, currently there is a pivot bar underneath, Im not sure if that shouldnt be there at all now im using a handbrake. I can only remember my other cars just having a bar that split 1 to 2 cables, not also pivoting.. If anyone could confirm thatd be cool.. Especially a soarer..

Changed the exhaust slightly, got excited with the 2j noise and atm want everyone to know the absolute pain this has been lol.. Its not that loud, can barely hear it inside.

Fitted a short shifter kit also, feels much better, little slop in the shifter at all.

Also removed the display unit and the 4 amp/control units from the boot. Removed the stack changer in the dash. Considering fitting a console in there..
Fitted an amp in the boot to drive the sub and also the center dash speaker, sounds nice =]

The original screen controlled the aircon, so got a unit from a uk gs300 which works nicely.







Ive probably driven it once or twice last week and went through a pair of 19" eagle f1s. MEHHHHHHHHHH. So much fun though.

Booked santapod on the 19th. Not massively fussed if the handbrake doesnt work by then.

Auto ECU seems to be okay with the manual. It doesnt miss, but Im sure it holds throttle under 100% when youve changed gear for a couple of seconds, but it seems good enough..

MCBob

Just a bit of reference for anyone who gives a ****, and myself when I forget what Ive done..

To get a decent handbrake out of it, there is a lever on the mechanism behind the heat shields under the tunnel that changes the ratio of the cable pulls. The stock setup makes the interior cable move 2x for the rear set moving one unit. Remove that, retain the bushes for the cables and bolt the eyelets together.. Its not massively great, but I think im asking too much of it being a massive car on 255 sticky tyres.. It easily locks the rears when entering a corner with confidence, it wont do lame *** drags which is good I suppose. Definately MOT passable.

The short shifter for JZA80 boxes do not fit right!! Im sure thats obvious but it needs quite a bit of welding and grinding. It transmits quite a bit of noise but ill sort that tommorow, works nicely now though.

Actually cant wait to skid this on the 19th.. Sorry for the lame *** build pics and no drifty pics!!

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Done some skids..:
Top photo is courtesy of https://www.facebook.com/Roughsmoke - theyve got more wicked shots to come








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<3


I wanna try and get an idea of intake temps and coolant temps when drifting, I got scared and run the turbos at .4bar throughout the day lol. Saw so many cars overheating I wanted to take care of my 2JZ <3

Next things I wanna do is convert to cable throttle still on stock ecu though..

A couple of vids some guys threw together :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-_wWoMBkaU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01HhsJyxkzM

mk2tmr2

iTrader: (1)

I saw a Turbo IS running a piggyback that had the OEM throttle still wired up but relocated to the interior. Then a cable throttle was installed and hooked up to the go pedal. This allowed the ECU to still think a drive-by-wire throttle was hooked up.

Not sure if that's an option for ya.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

nice pics....