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Project AARP Casino Cruiser - LS400 5spd drift car build

Old 01-08-13, 10:32 PM
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nismo4life
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Originally Posted by mikes7ke
Nice pick up. Can't wait to see the final product. You might want to install a clutch pedal before you get too far ahead of yourself.
Already did, get to far ahead of myself that is lol. Invested too much money and I know you said that part of the swap is a nightmare. I've had the luck in previous 5spd swaps to have all 3 pedals one one assembly that just bolt right in, though it was a ****ing **** to get it around the steering column...stupid Volkswagens.

Anyway, did you end up using the OEM 5spd kit from an SC300? I know DriftMotion sells them, but its a bit expensive so I was thinking about doing something like Cashflo did with a CNC pedal and master. Once I can get the car on jackstands I'll pull the driver seat out to get some more room and tackle the process of figuring out what to do with the brake pedal.

Also, I have the space and equipment, would you recommend just pulling the motor with the trans since I plan on removing so much stuff? Figured it might make certain things a lot easier.
Old 01-09-13, 09:29 AM
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Subscribed! Godspeed sir. The thought of this swap and the attempt would seriously make my head hurt. Whats your estimated finish time?
Old 01-09-13, 09:33 AM
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nismo4life
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Originally Posted by bobafreak
Subscribed! Godspeed sir. The thought of this swap and the attempt would seriously make my head hurt. Whats your estimated finish time?
No real deadline, though I'm hoping around the first drift events it will be driving with a welded diff and hydrobrake so I can start fine tuning the alignment and other things. Those should start around mid March-ish so I'm shooting for that. As Mike said though, the clutch pedal setup is what I'm most dreading. Everything else is more or less direct bolt on stuff..kinda lol.
Old 01-09-13, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nismo4life
The guy who sells the swap kit put a 1uz into his 240. He said he's had some 1uz auto's laying around and they're nearly the same length shifter to bell housing, so if that's true I can avoid having to get a 7" shifter extension made, and I don't have to use that stupid T56 style hydraulic TOB.

And thanks.
ah makes sense! i never liked that throwout bearing style either. good info to know this!
Old 01-09-13, 12:42 PM
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PureDrifter
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but the T56 style OEM spec TOBs work rather well i've noticed, a hell of a lot more reliable than the racing TOB/quartermaster setups.
Old 01-09-13, 01:02 PM
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That vid of you going sideways in a LS is sick. Any chance the car would flip over?
Old 01-09-13, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nismo4life
Already did, get to far ahead of myself that is lol. Invested too much money and I know you said that part of the swap is a nightmare. I've had the luck in previous 5spd swaps to have all 3 pedals one one assembly that just bolt right in, though it was a ****ing **** to get it around the steering column...stupid Volkswagens.

Anyway, did you end up using the OEM 5spd kit from an SC300? I know DriftMotion sells them, but its a bit expensive so I was thinking about doing something like Cashflo did with a CNC pedal and master. Once I can get the car on jackstands I'll pull the driver seat out to get some more room and tackle the process of figuring out what to do with the brake pedal.

Also, I have the space and equipment, would you recommend just pulling the motor with the trans since I plan on removing so much stuff? Figured it might make certain things a lot easier.
Whatever works best for you. But I don't really see any reason to pull the engine. I removed TRAC/ABS, replaced timing belt and water pump, and replaced engine mounts in the middle of my swap. The engine mounts Eee the only parts that made me think I should pull the engine out, but I didn't.

Removing the seat will provide some room, but I recommend pulling the dash to got the clutch pedal in. In fact after I get my other two projects running, I will be pulling the dash out of the LS400 and relocating the clutch pedal. If you go with the SC300 pedal, you will need to find a way to reinforce it. And that might be a perk with Cashflo's design, it might not need reinforcement. But I'd check with him just to be safe.

Food for thought, recently someone on lextreme finished this swap and cut up and fabbed civic brake and gas pedals, I think both to the brake pedal mount.
Old 01-09-13, 05:59 PM
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nismo4life
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
but the T56 style OEM spec TOBs work rather well i've noticed, a hell of a lot more reliable than the racing TOB/quartermaster setups.
While I won't disagree with you there, I'm just still not a fan of the way that setup is ran on the LS swaps. Best part of the swap kit I got is its all stupid cheap Nissan stuff. Brand new slave cylinder is like 14 bucks .
Old 01-09-13, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mikes7ke
Whatever works best for you. But I don't really see any reason to pull the engine. I removed TRAC/ABS, replaced timing belt and water pump, and replaced engine mounts in the middle of my swap. The engine mounts Eee the only parts that made me think I should pull the engine out, but I didn't.

Removing the seat will provide some room, but I recommend pulling the dash to got the clutch pedal in. In fact after I get my other two projects running, I will be pulling the dash out of the LS400 and relocating the clutch pedal. If you go with the SC300 pedal, you will need to find a way to reinforce it. And that might be a perk with Cashflo's design, it might not need reinforcement. But I'd check with him just to be safe.

Food for thought, recently someone on lextreme finished this swap and cut up and fabbed civic brake and gas pedals, I think both to the brake pedal mount.
Hah, I just google'd and found it. Awesome! Not a fan of pulling dashboards, mainly because I loathe wiring harnesses and its just going to be a cluster **** to put it all back together. I'll have to figure something out.

I also noticed you had some issues with the SC300 slave. How is the Tilton working out for you?
Old 01-09-13, 09:40 PM
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I didn't use the SC300 slave - I went with the T56 throw out bearing and I'm loving it. The issue was the SC300 master. The cylinder bore wasn't wide enough diameter. The tilton is working great. That being said, I've barely driven this thing. Too many projects needing too much at once.
Old 01-09-13, 10:41 PM
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What up Nis? (Geechie_Suede on TCL)
Old 01-11-13, 04:35 PM
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Update #4 1/11/13

Well had a few things come in today.


Ricochet poly steering rack bushings, guys claim its 90 on the durometer. Who in their right mind would bother making and selling LS400 steering rack bushings...? I doubt they get very many sales of these, but hey I'm not complaining :laugh:.

RTec maf adapter. Stock is claimed to be the best, going to try and run a CAI in the wheel well like my old Honda's. Plus if I ever go boost, I'll use it for sure .

Some ricer LED license plate lights for my Mini and the Lexus, and the SAGA scale I've been waiting on to start my weight reduction progress log which I wasted no time in using.



So I weighed up all the stuff I took out the other day. Here's the pile, and the weight list.



Starting Weight: 3807. The 3820 I was weighed at included a few things of mine I had in the car so I weighed those and removed them.

Spare tire - 43.4
Rear mufflers - 11.1 each x2 (22.2)
Steering wheel - 4.6
Driver airbag - 4.0
Rad support plastic covers + intake scoop - 3.7
Intake box - 2.9
Factory sub - 4.0
Jack and crank handle - 5.7
Trunk plastic trim (one along the trunk latch on the body) - 0.9
TRAC cover - 0.3
Fuel pump relay cover and cruise control cover - 0.4
Spare tire bucket & tie down - 1.4
Spare tire foam cushion - 1.0
Trunk interior carpet piece (one that goes under the trunk latch) - 1.4
Trunk side piece w/ first aid kit box - 1.9
Trunk side piece w/ Toolkit box and tools - 5.7
Trunk lid carpeted cover - 2.7
Steering wheel clockspring - 0.4
Radio and brackets - 6.1
Wheel locks - 0.3
Momo wheel & hub + 3.6
-------------------
Total reduction 109.4lbs.

Curb weight down to : 3697.6

That's all I got done today, made the mistake of buying one of these so my brother and I built a couple of cockpits and now F1 2012 is even more of a crack addiction. Hopefully will get some stuff done tomorrow.


Last edited by nismo4life; 01-11-13 at 04:44 PM.
Old 01-11-13, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HotTubTony
What up Nis? (Geechie_Suede on TCL)
haha nice username
Old 01-12-13, 06:37 PM
  #29  
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Update #5 1/12/13

So my friend made the stupid comment about pulling the dash to make more room for the clutch pedal install. Did some searching, and then he convinced me. So today, we pulled the dash! Should of taken photos for a DIY, I'll try when I put it all back together since I couldn't even find any decent photos of how to remove half of the dash, and there are plenty of sneaky "**** you" bolts.

Dash almost out.


SO much crap had to come out to take the dash out its ridiculous....


and here is all that crap.


Its surprisingly pretty light for how big it is.


And my helper for the day/******* who pulled an Inception and planted the idea.



The whole job took us about 2.5hrs. This was mostly due to a lack of availability on how to remove things. Never appreciate DIY threads until you don't have them . Putting it all back together shouldn't take more than an hour, hour and a half tops. The positive side to this is my back will thank me greatly when I start to mock up a pedal setup, and I can do some extra weight reduction too like passenger side airbag and whatnot.

Next step is to yank out the TRAC/ABS modules, lines, and canisters in the brake booster area and get some fittings to clean it up like 3UZ did on his. We'll see how that goes .
Old 01-12-13, 07:34 PM
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Good job, sir. Looks like you're moving forward nicely. I'm kind of surprised that the 1UZ/240SX swapper you bought your kit from decided to stick with the chincey FS5W71C gearbox instead of the RS5R30A (Z32), but, then, all of us 240 guys can admit to being overly cheap now and then. Good thing the FS5W's are cheap as dirt! And they're amazingly simple to work on to boot, so you can always swap pieces between them as parts break.

Good luck, and keep up the good work!

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