joewitafro

Motor came! I can definitely tell it was pressure washed, but the timing belt and serp belt look good.. Aisin water pump/toyota oil filter.. Only thing I can see damaged is the 6th injector has a broken retaining clip, so the clip doesnt snap on. Need to pull this harness off and get it to Mark Panic @ PanicWire and tomorrow I will start yanking my 2jzge out.

TRACKMKIII

Awesome man!! Can wait to see it run?

joewitafro

Dropping the harness today off with Mark @ PanicWire and meeting him at Pat Acres drift event

So far on my car (not much done).. A/C pump is unbolted from the motor without being disconnected, PS pump is pulled off the motor but still connected as well. Drained the oil and don't really see metal in it, and pulled the radiator, intake and some of the wiring disconnected.

joewitafro

So I yanked out the motor and trans myself and figured I would write the process in case anyone didn't know.

- Remove hood and set ontop of car
- Remove battery
- Put car on jack stands front/rear allowing you to lay under the car, secure it safely.
- Drain transmission fluid, engine oil, and radiator coolant.
- remove intake pipe and disconnect radiator hoses, unplug side fan connectors and remove radiator.
-Remove heater hose from exhaust side, disconnect wiring to igniter/coil/MAF/alternator
- Remove cruise control cable and accelerator cable from throttle body
- Remove heater control valve hose and heater control valve from fire wall.
- Unbolt power steering pump and lay it in battery tray (3-4 bolts)
- Under the car disconnect the exhaust after the O2 sensor (2 bolts)
- Remove drive shaft
- Remove shifter from inside
- Disconnect transmission ground from driver side bellhousing underneath
- Disconnect starter wire underneath driver side
- Prepare to remove fuel lines.. These must be elevated into the engine bay as much as possible to prevent sucking all your gas out, you will also need to put a glove on the end or something and tape it up.
- Remove return fuel line hose between the intake manifold and shock tower
- Driver side under neath car remove fuel inlet banjo and elevate both hoses in engine bay.
- If you want to disconnect A/C and recharge it later, crack the A/C lines and pull them off... bag them and tape up the lines with the o-rings.
- If you want to leave the A/C connected to remove the motor: You need to remove the bolts holding the A/C compressor on and supporting brackets, and to remove the rear stud you need a female TORX E-10 socket, this will allow you to lay the pump down with the lines attached while pulling the motor.
- Hook up engine hoist to motor mounting locations
- Remove glove box and ECU protective cover, remove ECU by unplugging it carefully
- Disconnect the 40 pin body harness plug with a bolt in the center for A/C and TRAC
- In the engine bay pull the two bolts holding the harness to the firewall and carefully disconnect it elsewhere on the firewall.
- Carefully pull the harness and three 40 pin plugs with the engine harness out of the firewall. You will need to go back and forth between the interior and engine bay to slowly guide the plugs out without breaking them.
- Set engine harness on motor
- Underneath car unbolt transmission mount ( 4 bolts )
- Pop out the two long caps on either side of the motor hiding the engine mount nuts which are 18mm
- Remove the engine mount nuts
- Start hoisting slowly and pulling forward once the motor mounts pull out (both mine were destroyed)
- Check if any wiring is connected around the motor, there are a few ground straps that need to be removed.
- Hoist engine and slowly move foward
- bring the front of the motor as close to the core support as possible but hoist to lift the pan over the core support, and then hoist the motor all the way up
- Either hoist the engine high enough so the trans clears the core support or lift the tail shaft up and help clear out of the engine bay, lower engine in a safe spot.

Pretty much how I did it from memory, as far as other updates...

I got the ECU and A/C body harness plug to Panic wire, harness should be done soon according to Mark. Parts i've been picking up...

12360-46111 97+ Supra TT motor mounts - 61.18/each
94 toyota supra 2jzgte throttle cable - 61.54
Pilot bearing - 6.06
Rear main seal - 29.97
97+ vvti upper radiator hose
94 supra lower radiator hose
15678-46020 filter, vvti pipe list 5.55 cost 4.16
12263-46010 hose, vent list 10.88 cost 8.16
12264-46010 hose, vent list 11.03 cost 8.27
2jz thermostat
7mgte "TOYODA" p/s reservoir
NGK v-power copper spark plugs for 94 2jzgte

I attached my 2jzge a/c compressor and it bolted right up to the 2jzgte vvti motor, the alternator is the same 3 pin oval tan plug so I can use either. I removed the motor mounts from the 2jzge motor and attached the new 97+ TT motor mounts which are supposed to be stronger than TRD supra mounts (less rubber).

I have to swap transmissions and attach the motor mounts and I will be putting the motor in the car. I've looked and the rear heater hoses look like they will line up good, the fuel return line is in the same spot and the fuel inlet banjo is the same. Should be all plug and play.

I am using the aristo power steering pump, but connecting the banjo fitting from my car which has lines to my rack n pinion and should work fine. So everything seems to be going well. I haven't really taken many pictures because my cell phone sucks and i'm doing all the work alone so far, mechanic will be putting the motor in this weekend and waiting for the wiring harness.

TRACKMKIII

Your project is moving along nicely! Keep up the good work!!

joewitafro

Thanks! The motor will be in before Monday and the harness is expected to be done early next week.

I gotta figure out what to do with exhaust and intercooler, fluids and make sure this baby runs..

joewitafro

Ordered a 28x6x2.5" intercooler, not trying to get something huge i just need to get it all to fit and running DD.

Today I put the new motor mounts on the motor, GS300 brackets with 97+ TT supra mounts. More progress tomorrow.

Also... Harness is done! Got an update from Mark and will be going to the bank Monday to get money and meeting up to pay! I am EXCITED!!

ClarkKent

Awesome Joe! We are watching and enjoying your progress.

joewitafro

Some bad picture updates from my phone! Hahaha, hopefully I can pick up the harness tomorrow, but not sure because he's going to hillsboro which is the opposite direction of me.

Anyways, here's a difference showing the motor mounts. The vvti ones look like they would almost work in a gs300 if you modified the subframe for 2 bolts, but I used my old motor mounts with 97+ tt supra mounts.




I was gifted a mk3 supra power steering reservoir, It was my first car and me and my brother did a lot of work on them between the two of us, and it's cool to me to have this "TOYODA" reservoir!

I was trying to figure out whether I am going to leave the ETCS-I system unplugged or if I should swap out throttle bodies, but it seems my JZS147 throttle body has ETCS so that is out of the question for now. Possible Q45 throttle body in my future...

Here's a picture of my stock 2jzge Gs300 A/C compressor bolted up, and I used the GS300 power steering pump with the aristo top fitting for the line to the resevoir.

Other than that, the transmission was connected along with a new rear main seal, pilot bearing and the 1jz flywheel with ARP bolts, 7mgte turbo clutch/pressure plate. Everything looked great still, just got a hose down with brake cleaner to remove any oils.

The last thing I did was climb upside down into my drive seat and removed the stock gs300 accelerator cable. The 94 TT supra throttle cable bolted up perfect, only difference is I had to turn it sideways to mount it in comparison to my stock one, but everything clears and it fits OEM. Very happy about how all these OEM parts fit and work perfectly together.

Tomorrow will have more updates, subframe needs to be drilled out and harness installed on the motor and its ready to drop in. Should be running in 3-5 days depending on hiccups!

BoughtanIS

simply amazing!

joewitafro

Motor tried going in today but the exhaust side motor mount is in the wrong location, It needs to be in the rear mounting location. Other than that, spark plugs, vvti oil filter, oil filter, harness was installed along with new valve cover ventilation hoses and some heater hoses. The fire wall definitely need to be pushed back in more.

Thats where its at right now, waiting for more parts to come in and switching the motor mount before it goes in fully. Also need to pound in the firewall on the turbo side a lot more.

joewitafro

So, I got a little progress today, but obviously lots of hiccups too... Definitely NOT as easy to do as a non vvti 2jzgte JZS147 swap (if that wasn't obvious, I will help you realize)

I tried to install the motor with transmission attatched and it ended up a little crooked.. Definitely snagging..



The firewall is also a big issue if you plan to keep the twins, like I want too...I had already pounded it a bit before trying this attempt and still had clearance issues like you see, also with the back ABS brake lines against the firewall you will have clearance issues with the rear turbo piping if you leave the twins attatched. All of this can be avoided with a single turbo.

I had to pound the firewall quite a bit with a BIG hammer.

To make it easier with test fitments, I removed the bellhousing bolts and the clutch fork and seperated the trans from the motor. With the softening I did on the firewall, and unbolting my ABS pump and pulling it about 2-3" toward the headlight allowed me to get the motor to sit in on the motor mounts. Clearance looks good in the back but I have a problem I still need to figure out. The heater core from the body comes out at a downward angle and the Aristo JZS161 points straight upward in the back, and maybe i could use a really long heater hose and loop it around? But I don't know about that... My idea is to remove the pipe and cut and weld an elbow on the heater core pipe facing toward the firewall and run a straight heater core hose connecting the two. The ABS pump is going to stay where its at hanging foward until I can extend the lines and remount it more toward the headlight.



When I got home my intercooler arrived.. Bar and plate and looks small enought that I can retain all of my A/C lines up front and not have to move much around. Going to run 2.5" intercooler pipes and a CX racing 3" filter kit.

Tomorrow is Independance Day, the Fourth of July. I hope all of you get to celebrate with family. More work will be done soon.

djspock303

Looks great keep em coming!

ClarkKent

Wishing you the best Joe! Just imagine how jealous we'll all be when she's done.

joewitafro

Oh I know that!!! I was wondering what the value of the car would be (I don't want to sell it, but for insurance purposes).. Probably needs paint and interior and suspension bushings and an LSD in the future before its finished fully.

I got some man power to help me tomorrow, so I will update with pictures when the motor is completely in and bolted up! Sunday will be inter cooler install and finishing connections on the motor such as fuel line, drive line, plugging in a/c and starter, ground straps and yea.. MORE PROGRESS SOON!!! I am totally on a time crunch and have been doing family bizz first.