Picked up my upper radiator pipe from the welder, he polished it for me and did beaded ends but I ended up spraying my hose/clamp and part of the pipe black to see if the fan will rub at all. I'm about .4" away at the closet spot. I would like to remove the studs out of the fan clutch and use bolts from the front so I can put some 1/2" spacers In between but I would need something machine that is the same size and weights as each other to keep the system balanced. Right now with some 1/4" diameter washers I can still see a little wobble, whether the fan has a little natural wobble in it or if its the addition of the washers I don't know. But I'm only spaced about 1/4" right now.
I also cut the spade connector off that panic wire installed for my gauge as I wanted everything to be factory connectors, and I got that lead wire with pin from Toyota, stripped and soldered the wires together and double heat shrunk it.
Next I remembered my tachometer wasn't working and from previous research on the forums (thank you to those who has posted correct information) all I had to do was jump the resistor labeled "R7" next to the orange plug in the center. Soldered a wire in there and WAHLAH! tach works now
Last off I spent a little time under the front of the car with a cut off wheel and removed the passenger tow hook more and removed some metal to help me run a straight pipe out of the intercooler. Other than that I only need to cut my intercooler piping to the correct sizes and get it all on there and put water in the engine before I can drive it over to the muffler shop. Should have it driving this weekend!
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I cut the intercooler piping up and had to go buy another 90 degree 2.5", also removed more sheet metal near the tow hook on the passenger side but I was able to bolt everything up with t-bolts. After the piping was on I decided it was time to put water in the radiator and fill up the system. I noticed as the car started getting warmer It started to idle lower until it was sputtering around 200rpm and dying.
Do you guys think this could be my ECU temperature sensor? I need to get the exhaust down pipe constructed and after that I need to pull my codes and see whats up.
Took it for her first test drive today with the exhaust disconnected. Wow! Hahahahah that is all for now
I replaced the ECU temp sensor and it made no difference in my idle, so I adjusted the set screw for idle adjustment on my throttle body and got it to idle at 500-600 when warm which is normal for a 2jzgte. I found out my brakes didn't work while trying to move it out of the shop, turns out the rear port on my car isn't even connected so I had to put a vacuum banjo at the top. Works now I will probably try to have an exhaust down pipe finished by Monday, but in the mean time a ****ty cell phone video for you guys :P
Correct brake booster spot:
Fan blade didn't touch on my test run. I found the rev limiter too somewhere around 6500-6800rpm
Yep but right now the fan isn't hitting, and its cooling good (temperature never raises above half)
Although I do plan on removing the studs on the fan clutch and having precision 1/2" spacers made (I need them to be equally balanced, this will be my next project after my exhaust) and installing bolts through the front of the fan blade.
Today I used 2.5" u-bends to make a down pipe, definitely a few pie cuts to be able to mock it up and tack it in place. I doubt my welding will be pretty but tomorrow I am hoping to get welded up and bolted on.
I changed the ecu temp sensor and it didn't do anything, but since I adjusted the screw on the throttle body sometimes the car starts up and only wants to idle at 3000 rpm and other times it starts up idling at 500. Definitely need to inspect more and figure that out.
Couldn't help but take some more photos of the setup today. I found out some information about adjusting the throttle body screw, this is my issue with my idle spiking occasionally but whether I can get it to idle perfect when I set it back to OEM who knows. Lets hope! I think i might have a leak somewhere or a sensor screwy. I found a list of toyota/lexus MIL codes so I will pull codes tomorrow and see whats up. I've heard that I can eliminate all of the transmission codes with the use of resisters so I will look into that more.
Thanks to Jason T for this 2jzgte vvti information:
Originally Posted by Jason T
Re setting JZS161 2JZ-GTE throttle body adjuster screw factory setting
Un plug the 3 sensors ( main is tps yes do this while running) you will have 1800/1900 rpm when this screw is set right (Aristo JZS161)
TPS plug =1 ecu told throttle plate position
Pedal position sensor =2 where you want throttle plate it to be
Throttle motor plug =3 where the ecu says the throttle plate should be
Adjust the screw to get idle with 3 sensors unplugged while running aim for 1800 / 1900 rpm idle
Pull battery terminal for 30 seconds
Re plug all three then reconnect battery
Using jumper wire / paper clip turn key to ON don't start hold gas to floor count to 10 ( this resets pedal position sensor )
Leave ignition on remove jumper wire / paper clip
Re start enjoy 750 rpm idle
JZS161 Throttle body adjuster screw factory setting
Pretty happy seeing this I think the engine bay looks great with a VVTI
Interior looks rough but some day I'll have the carpets redone and put new leather in it. I did get this authentic decade old italian momo steering wheel in near perfect condition for a good price. I still need to get a shift boot back in the car, I think I'll try a local upholstery shop to find real leather because all the stuff on ebay looks like crap
Down pipe isn't pretty by any means, but I am using scrap 2.5" pipe from a project a long time ago that my brother did. My pie cuts and angles aren't perfect but I'm using a pneumatic cut off wheel and 110v lincoln wire feed. From my mock up it seems to fit pretty good but I will bolt it up tomorrow and see how it really sits lol
I believe that is what I quoted in my last post Nix. It's the only information I can find that seems correct. I will try tomorrow, if not he has close up pictures I can get it close, but I still need to reset the system like he says so I will try.
Yeah I didn't read it all. Just skimmed it. I had to reset one but I don't remember the process. I've just seen people mess with the set screw trying to adjust it. I really hate that throttle body setup.
I got the down pipe welded up and bolted on. I didn't take pictures because my welder was acting up and I only got a few decent welds, it was giving me a lot of trouble but whatever. Its on! haha
I also had to re bleed the clutch but it feels good now, back to normal!
I started the car and unplugged the 3 sensors and adjusted the screw to a 1900 idle and turned off the car, unplugged the battery for a minute and plugged the sensors back in, then put the battery terminal back on and put a jumper into my diagnostics. Turned the ignition on and held the throttle wide open for 10-15 seconds and then I pulled the jumper leaving my ignition on and started the car. Right now it seems to start up sometimes around an 800-900 idle, and sometimes a 1300-1400 idle, kinda weird but its working a lot better than it was.
Last of all, I was driving home after getting a little gas and decided to try a 2nd gear pull, I don't know if I hit fuel cut but my throttle body went into limp mode and I lost all control of the throttle except the last 20-25% which allowed me to pull off in a safe spot, after switching my ignition on and off a few times I got it started and giving me a throttle response again. No clue why this happened!
My friend has a vvti 2j in his 350z. he went single turbo, and has the same cutting out problem. the 3 sensors need to read the same number in order for the ecu to be happy otherwise its goes in to the limp "safe mode". only option is to go stand alone and delete sensors. from what hes told me.
I definitely feel like this is a fuel pump issue. The car boosts and will even rev out unless i go WOT which in turn its cutting out around 6k rpm and going into limp mode.
I suspected this initially but had to reset and drive it around to determine it but because I am using my stock GS300 fuel pump it does not flow enough (obviously) for the stock setup. My car is cold start idling perfect, I haven't tried the A/C yet because my system is still empty but when warm the car starts up at about 1100 rpm and drops down to a nice 800-900 idle every time now. Definitely seems like my reset did it and the ETCS-I appears to be working well. I am happy that it fuel cut and went into limp mode, I definitely appreciate that it didn't lean my car out!
got about 500 miles on the motor, from 80 degree weather 100 degrees the temperature doesn't move from the half way mark on my gauge. I know our gauges aren't the most accurate though... But I still have adequate water in my reservoir and I I don't notice any smoke burning from my turbos (YAY!)
I am going to do an oil change to get the high detergent 15w40 delo 400 out of it, the oil still seems really clean so the inside of my motor must be pretty good, but I will change it anyways for something better. I still have a couple oil leaks to fix but requires a bit more maintenance when I tackle that deep into the front of the motor.