joewitafro

So i got the plugs and wires changed, but the distributor cap isn't in and I am still getting a code 12. I am also getting a semi high idle when warm.. As you can tell from the photo below, it seems to be around 1250 warm.. I am going to try and adjust it tomorrow. No hesitation though!

I modified the old center console just for a template until I get my new shifter boot in and make a aluminum or stainless steel piece.

Although it was 38 degrees (F) today I kind of felt there was a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust, although the motor probably hasn't been ran in a few years with old gas, I did a oil change on it.

joewitafro

I changed the rotor and cap today.. Still getting a check engine error #12.. I wonder if there was a signal from one of the auto transmission plugs that I am missing now?? Also.. The car is cold idling at 1750 and warm idling about 1250-1400, I tried adjusting the "idle set screw" which is an 8mm wrench with an allen in the center, although adjust this down even a tad would raise the idle, backing it out did nothing.. So I left it alone for now.

I've yet brought it to emissions because I know I will fail just for idle, so my next progression of steps is to spray some carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses to check for leaks, then going to check the timing and see what the car is doing, afterwords I will probably spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body to clean it up, and reset the ecu.. If these things don't fix my idle I will try and clean the idle control valve.

VSRgs300

is it ABS 12 or Engine 12?

two different codes.

joewitafro

Engine 12 - RPM signal #1..

I went out with an ohm meter and checked my distributor.. Jumping from G1 to G- it showed 160, within range (125-200 ohms cold), G2 to G- showed 160 as well which is also within spec, but when I jumped NE to G- it showed 1, which is bad..

Can any one else unplug their distributor cap and test between pins NE and G- to see if you get between 155-250 ohms cold, or if you even get a readout? Also checked a 4runner here and it didn't show anything when jumping NE to G- either.. Everytime i rev my car, the check engine light pretty much instantly comes on, and when the rpm settles, the light goes off.

VSRgs300

yeah mine is within spec. it was fluctuating around 160.

did you measure the air gap with feeler gauges? it should be between .008 and .020.

if that's in range, you may have a corroded/broken wire somewhere.

VSRgs300

just for ****s and giggles, try just jumping the wires at the connector, instead of going to the clutch pedal.

make the car think it's always in nuetral and see what happens. I've done a fair amount of auto to manual swaps on mitsubishi cars and they've got to be left in "nuetral" all the time to operate correctly.

i'm just thinking maybe the way you have the car *thinking* it's in drive, it might be looking for a signal from the auto trans it isn't getting. possibly something in the trans ECU not sending a signal.

just an idea.

i wonder if it's looking for an RPM signal from something trans related. ya know?

joewitafro

I thought about that and brought it up to my brother.. I don't think the distributor connects anywhere to my auto trans, they both go to the ecu. Now, I am getting an O/D flash which is showing my trans ecu throwing codes.. but that is something separate than me not receiving a signal from my NE sensor (which makes sense why I am getting a code 12.. as I rev above 2500 the RPM signal gets fuzzy and the ecu cant see whats happening clearly, but I don't have an oscilloscope to determine that fully.

I did find a distributor on supraforums for 60 shipped and it will be here friday, and all three sensors were tested good on it. Also ordered a throttle body gasket from toyota and picked up a few cans of toyota TB cleaner and some rags so I can clean out the throttle body and idle control valve. I also noticed a slight split on my intake boot coming off the throttle body, so I am going to use some RTV and electrical tape to make sure i am not getting a lean condition from an air leak. Haven't been able to work on the car much with school and homework, but I have a four day weekend and plan to get this running correctly with my fingers crossed.

I also got my shifter boot and boot plate, planning on using a piece of aluminum and a jigsaw to cut out a template which will clean up the center console. Still looking for a shift ****, any suggestions on what I should get?

joewitafro

Little progress... Have to remove the throttle body to clean it super well, it wont return completely and is gummy.. So my idle is sticking at 1250-1000 warm, and i have to push the throttle closed more to get it to idle stock. I've tried to add another return spring but it hasn't helped yet. So while its been raining and cold instead, I went and found some stainless steel to start making my center console. Had to pick up a dremel but here is my progress on the center console. I also got in my lokar leather shift boot with rectangular ring, hence the cutout. Also bought a full JDM 2jzgte manifold upper/lower with all sensors and TB.. Not sure if I want to try and modify it to fit my ge head or find a GTE head in the future.. Also I replaced the distributor with a used one and I no longer have a check engine light.

10thMtnLex

iTrader: (1)

Joe,

Looking great! IMHO, I like the OE shift ****. I guess I'd rather have a comment to the effect 'I didn't know they made those with a manual', than 'nice custom work'. Just Me. Looking forward to seeing with the boot installed. How did you address the 2 lower boots that should seal the trans tunnel?

Congrats on solving the CEL issue, nothing would have been worse than the state saying 'NO' after all your hard work.

Keep the updates coming...

All the best!, -

joewitafro

Thanks, the high idle has definitely slowed my progress and willpower, having comments about others liking my project really helps boost my own morale :P

As far as the lower boots, this transmission had some pretty terrible boots, and the larger one which you see in the picture was removed from another shifter, because mine was missing except for the "top" part, and the boot which covers the shifter plate was also torn a little. I haven't bolted either of these down yet, partially because I still have a existing hole where the auto hole was, and I feel like my best plan to fix that is to cut another piece of stainless steel out and a couple sheet metal screws.

Until then, I have been wondering what I want to do with the center console being shiny, like you I would appreciate someone seeing my car and realizing quickly its a manual, and while it may look "custom".. I want it to look clean. So far I found a stock r154 shift ****, and have been thinking of recovering it with wood grain like stock, or having it painted/coated, or maybe even a "brushed" finish but that is my least favorite idea.

10thMtnLex

iTrader: (1)

Coming along nicely Joe! For the console surround, a quick and dirty might be just some plasti-dip. Matte black finish would be similar to the black plastic surround of the manual SCs. As an added bonus the surface would be tackier than the woodgrain, and would help keep stuff from sliding all over, and it peels off when you want something else. Wood grain would be sweet, I’m just AR about the woods matching throughout, hard to do with many of the stick-on kits, especially with the OE ashtray just in front. Are you going to use an OE SC leather upper most boot?? You can them from Driftmotion or dealer reasonably. You could also cover in a tan leather, would match the seats, and give a nice contrast to the brown console edge, with a Black or brown Leather boot. Brushed finish or ‘engine turning’ may be too ‘NASCAR’! You’ll come up with something nice!

All the best!, -

VSRgs300

i covered mine in carbon vinyl cause the woodgrain chipped off. just an idea

joewitafro

Haven't mounted my boot yet, but I did sand the center a little and showing where the center ring will go. I don't plan on using the sc300 boot, I bought a shift boot kit with a rectangular mount (in pic) and a leather boot which fits well into the stock shifter I found. I also yanked off the throttle body and tested the TPS with an ohm meter and found out it was out of spec, so I loosened and followed the instructions in the manual on how to set it, and it seems to be working decently now. Also feel like its returning a little better after using some springs to help it return. I will be working on it tomorrow.

thedoc302

Nice seeing another manual first gen. There's not many of us out there..keep up the good work!

joewitafro

So good news! after setting the TPS and reinstalling the throttle body, the car still wouldn't idle properly and it seemed it would idle perfectly the first time I started it, but every time I restarted the car it would increase the idle. I changed out the coolant temp sensor and it dropped my idle some but still slightly inconsistent with what I wanted.. (or to pass emissions)

I decided to test something, and let the car fully cool and started it up and it had a perfect idle... When it fully warmed up and at a 750 rpm idle, I unplugged the idle speed control valve and restarted the car... Wham... it now idles at 1000 to 750... Even restarting the car multiple times it seemed to work, and I passed emissions by doing this!! Awesome! Now I have plates and will start to finish up my center console since I can drive the car legally now. So exciting to finally drive my manual swapped gs!