The differential adapter will be here tomorrow and I will get the final measurement to the driveline shop for a 1 piece to start being made.
I had some friends come and help me tighten the pressure plate bolts the other day, and today all the bell housing bolts are in, starter is in, and slave is bolted on.
I made a template for the clutch master and proceeded to guess where to place it Here's where it turned out. It's not too bad..
Had to beat in the firewall on the right quite a bit to flatten it out, and then I took the floor ebrake bracket and grinded out the rivets, then cut the bracket in half so I am only utilizing the top two studs. I haven't welded them yet, but so far the mock up is looking pretty good.
I also took a grinder to my front center console brace that goes across the front, and notched it slightly just to make sure I clear when I go into 1st, 3rd, and 5th.. I do, but I don't want it to touch for any vibration, so now there is a 1/4" gap when its in gear. Once the shifter plate/boot is made it will totally look like a short shifter is installed, and the new poly shifter bushings I got make the trans shift tight and has a short throw, seems less than a stock mk3 with this swan shifter.
So i got the differential adapter installed, and the measurement taken with the yoke pushed all the way in. The final driveshaft will be 52-1/4"
Sadly though, I dropped off the parts at the driveline shop Monday afternoon, and he wants the rear adapter for to make sure of the flange, so I will be dropping that off tomorrow and the shaft will start being made!
Went to the driveshaft shop today to drop the flange off, he confirmed it worked for the 1350 flange and returned it to me, my driveshaft should be done friday!
On another note I went and made some progress with my brother in the shop!
Starting off with a nice picture of its current state..
Also, several people mentioned my shifter being quite far forward.. So.. I took a picture of the car in 1st gear, neutral, and 4th gear to show the placements. This is with OEM soarer r154 and shifter.
Afterwords I checked out my ebrake cable, I will have to either get mine shortened or have a custom cable made. needs to be about 25-27" But I will figure that out more tomorrow.
Next I took out the clutch master and removed the clutch pedal again. I wanted to space it on the left side more to try and get it to angle the pedal a little more, but instead I just removed the 1/2" boss from the right side to get it to sit up closer. Hard to see... But this is the side with the removed boss so it should sit flush against the firewall. I had to remove a portion of the foam dampening but this shows how far from the brake bolts are.
The pedal seemed to sit a bit better... It is doable for me, so I proceeded to make a template against half of the ebrake bracket in the previous photo. It needs to be able to be bolted on because the left clutch master nut is VERY hard to reach.
This led to a nice piece of steal cut out, slightly bent, grinded, hole drilled.. and mocked up for tack welding.
and here's the finished bracket. Not too pretty, but it will work!
and had to do a lot of grinding here to get it to fit onto the two studs easily with the pedal bolted on still.
Using the stock clutch switch as a bolt point. In the future I imagine I will brace up the clutch pedal just because its machine spot welded.
This led to the placement of the pedal, which will allow the car to drive for now.. But i may cut the pedal and re fit it later on.
Holy Jeebus that pedal was a lot of work! Hope things go smoother in an SC 300 swap. I do not have your technical abilities (esp.welding), so all that will need to be farmed out to the installing shop, and most would have a cow if they had to go through all that!
You are going to have a sweet ride!! I'm soooooo jealous!!
An sc300 came manual before, so the location to mount the pedal should be 100% stock, whereas in this setup the firewall is pretty wonky and needs to be made flatter, using a clutch pedal from a supra might not be the easiest way to do this, I think a sc300/mk4 clutch pedal would work better.
Anyways.. The clutch line is in and the clutch is bled, feels pretty good. I plan on painting the bracket tonight to keep it from rusting and I will be installing the dash back together tomorrow. The driveshaft should be done as well, so I will put that in and start on the exhaust and an oil change. Still need to find out what wiring needs to be done for the clutch safety and reverse lights.. I also removed the airbag computer and yanked out the old ebrake cable, and have been contemplating where to mount the mk3 supra ebrake. It looks like it will work sitting on the passenger side, but fitment is going to be tight.
So I have been trying to figure out the wiring, and thankfully someone from this site linked me to the japanese wiring diagrams for the Aristo, but it just so happened to have a PDF link to a 237 page electronics manual for the usa made GS300.. Yay for me and people wanting to learn the swap! I started out looking at these diagrams... This diagram shows the neutral switch being pins 5 and 6 on connector P1 (grey).. I took a photo of this, and because my transmission has an electronic speed sensor already installed it accepts the stock V1 speed sensor plug (3 wire) (rather than the cable driven mk3 supra R154 trans requiring the marlin crawler piece) I only needed to modify the wiring in connector P1.. Connectors V2 and O1 are left disconnected along with E2.
This is the p1 connector I am talking about.. Pins 5 and 6 are for the neutral switch and according to the diagram below... Pins 4 and 8 go to the reverse light switch.. It doesn't matter what order you wire them, I connected the two wires from the R154 reverse lights and cut two red wires from the p1 connector from pins 4 and 8, ones red with blue center the other red with black center. I ran wires going from the two black wires (one with white center stripe) to the bottom clutch switch inside the car so when the clutch is depressed the car is in neutral, when its not... the car believes its in drive.
And all wired up! I tucked it with some zip ties after this.
Hopefully I get the driveshaft tomorrow, but I added 3 liters of fluid to the transmission and verified that the reverse lights DO work, and the car only starts with the clutch depressed... Revs above 5k, and my speedometer works.
So i got the drive shaft and installed it along with the exhaust, and got all of the interior back together except something to cover the existing trans hole where the shifter boot needs to be. The drive shaft seems like it could of been a tad longer so the dust shield went in more... But I think it will work. I have yet to get the car off jack stands because I am going to do an oil change.. and hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get it through emissions!
Getting code 12 with a check engine light showing an RPM signal. Going to change out the sparkplugs, cap and rotor, and check over the distributor and wiring near there, the car is hesitating when trying to accelerate like there is a misfire.
It wouldn't be hard for me to replicate the bracket for someone else if I had another mk3 clutch pedal and gs300 foot ebrake.
there's your answer....make a few of these. People like me will buy them. laziness prevails for me. I bet you there's 10 people on this forum that would buy these. You'd have this game on lockdown as long as your price was reasonable.
if you're really serious about making one for me, PM me a price and we'll go from there
1996 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV
1993 Nissan 240SX - Built KA24/400WHP Drift Pig
1994 Lexus GS300 - Daily Driver