DW's Build Thread
#1
DW's Build Thread
Well, here she is. This is the beginning of her facelift. I think the results are pretty good so far. Tanabe's helped a lot. I'm happy. Amazing the improvement over stock.
- SC430 wheels 245/40-18 15mm/F 25mm/R
- Tanabe Springs 1.8/F 1.5/R with new KYB's
- Natural camber (maxed)
- Resonator delete
- SC430 wheels 245/40-18 15mm/F 25mm/R
- Tanabe Springs 1.8/F 1.5/R with new KYB's
- Natural camber (maxed)
- Resonator delete
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 11-30-12 at 02:28 PM.
#4
Thank You. I was a bit worried that those wheels would not work as good as they do. Yes, the front windshield is tinted. Was going to take it off with the car back in the states but no second looks so far. So, leaving it for now. I have not seen another 400 with these SC430 wheels, which is interesting. You do need the front spacers to clear the caliber. Rear was just for looks and it helps. Thanks to Mike (RA40) for that one and PD. The color of the wheels work well with my factory color. Billy needs a set or Tanabe's as well.
A 45 sidewall may rub. I'll have to see when I get there.
A 45 sidewall may rub. I'll have to see when I get there.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 11-30-12 at 08:53 PM.
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#10
Thank you for your compliments. I do have a few questions.
1: I was really hoping the pop I get in my front end was the strut mounts. I have already done my strut bar bushes. I only get it when braking hard, which is not that often but during the last second or two before I stop I am getting a pop in the front. I am thinking it's gotta be either the upper or lower control arms. It's not the brakes for sure. What else could it be right?
2: Under certain conditions, I do feel the rear end lateral movement slightly more pronounced with the new suspension, which makes sense with the grip and all. Got to work on those bushes soon.
3: So, I opened her up today for about 1/2 mile, down a long hill on the highway in the country. You can imagine, I was going rather fast. I wanted to feel the suspension, balance, alignments, etc. She felt really good. Very planted to the ground. I did notice the hood begin to shake at high speed. The front end was not shaking at all just the the hood. I could not tell if it was due to air or being a little loose, or both. What can be done about this? It does not appear misaligned. Anyone else experience this? No big deal because I would rarely ever drive at those speeds but I still would like to fix that if possible.
1: I was really hoping the pop I get in my front end was the strut mounts. I have already done my strut bar bushes. I only get it when braking hard, which is not that often but during the last second or two before I stop I am getting a pop in the front. I am thinking it's gotta be either the upper or lower control arms. It's not the brakes for sure. What else could it be right?
2: Under certain conditions, I do feel the rear end lateral movement slightly more pronounced with the new suspension, which makes sense with the grip and all. Got to work on those bushes soon.
3: So, I opened her up today for about 1/2 mile, down a long hill on the highway in the country. You can imagine, I was going rather fast. I wanted to feel the suspension, balance, alignments, etc. She felt really good. Very planted to the ground. I did notice the hood begin to shake at high speed. The front end was not shaking at all just the the hood. I could not tell if it was due to air or being a little loose, or both. What can be done about this? It does not appear misaligned. Anyone else experience this? No big deal because I would rarely ever drive at those speeds but I still would like to fix that if possible.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 12-01-12 at 05:16 PM.
#12
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Those wheels, suspension fit it up nicely and the spacers are just right. If you decide to go adjustable coils, it begins to neg camber significantly so even with where they are now it shouldn't rub if you drop it more than 1". At minimal a small shave but I doubt you'd need that.
As for the shaking hood, PD has you, the rubber stops can be adjusted to remove any free play with the hood closed.
As for the shaking hood, PD has you, the rubber stops can be adjusted to remove any free play with the hood closed.
#13
Thanks guys. I'll look for those rubber bumpers.
I really like the suspension right now. It is a world of difference. If you want a highway cruising car I would say don't mess with the springs at all but the handling difference is phenomenal. The rims and tires help a lot too but the roll has been reduced significantly. It is a drastic change to go through all at once. Plus it's first brake job. Braking is fantastic now. No more of that dip and bounce...
I really like the suspension right now. It is a world of difference. If you want a highway cruising car I would say don't mess with the springs at all but the handling difference is phenomenal. The rims and tires help a lot too but the roll has been reduced significantly. It is a drastic change to go through all at once. Plus it's first brake job. Braking is fantastic now. No more of that dip and bounce...
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 12-02-12 at 04:22 PM.
#14
Alright, so here is the best style bushing replacement kit I have come up with so far.
I'm thinking the Roca upper and lower control arm kit up front. Their not polyurethane from what I can tell. I know it is a pain to press the bushes but the savings is a ton. Like this
I guess the Adus 5056 arms and 505 carrier axel. Poly in the back seems to be OK, yes? I know up front they kill the ride.
I'm thinking the Roca upper and lower control arm kit up front. Their not polyurethane from what I can tell. I know it is a pain to press the bushes but the savings is a ton. Like this
I guess the Adus 5056 arms and 505 carrier axel. Poly in the back seems to be OK, yes? I know up front they kill the ride.
#15
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
have you checked the condition of your upper ball joints like how i posted in the coilover how-to?
if you have bushings that need to be replaced, odds are the UBJ's are probably not far behind so you might want to give them a serious once over before you order the front upper bushings. if you need UBJ's, you need new arms and they come with new bushings anyways... kill 2 birds with one stone and all.
nice build so far.
do you know what the offsets on the wheels were?
if you have bushings that need to be replaced, odds are the UBJ's are probably not far behind so you might want to give them a serious once over before you order the front upper bushings. if you need UBJ's, you need new arms and they come with new bushings anyways... kill 2 birds with one stone and all.
nice build so far.
do you know what the offsets on the wheels were?