First post/ R154 Swap
#16
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Got a couple questions
Anybody know what these plugs are?
I don't recall seeing them on the SC's at the junkyard?
Also I couldn't believe me eyes when I saw the inside of the passenger door.
Just scroll down
I'm just laughing about it now.
Anybody know what these plugs are?
I don't recall seeing them on the SC's at the junkyard?
Also I couldn't believe me eyes when I saw the inside of the passenger door.
Just scroll down
I'm just laughing about it now.
#18
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Removing the wiring harness getting ready to clean the engine.
Anybody got suggestions on what to service/replace while the engine is out?
So far I was thinking:
rear main seal
oil pan gasket
timing belt
water pump and gaskets
valve cover gaskets
front main seal maybe?
That's how the engine is spending the night tonight haha
I hope there's no earthquakes
The last pic is just teasing at what the car might look like
Anybody got suggestions on what to service/replace while the engine is out?
So far I was thinking:
rear main seal
oil pan gasket
timing belt
water pump and gaskets
valve cover gaskets
front main seal maybe?
That's how the engine is spending the night tonight haha
I hope there's no earthquakes
The last pic is just teasing at what the car might look like
Last edited by dekarev; 11-27-12 at 01:55 AM.
#20
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Update:
Removed the slush box with the torque converter.
Removed the accessories, valve covers, intake and exhaust and placed the engine on a stand
Decided to change the head gasket along with oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, distributor cap and wireset, water pump, timing belt and mounts
I read it's recommended to also change the fan clutch but at 71 dollars i thought it was a bit pricey
Any tips on removing the head?
Those 14 millimeter hex in the middle of the head need to come out right?
Removed the accessories, valve covers, intake and exhaust and placed the engine on a stand
Decided to change the head gasket along with oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, distributor cap and wireset, water pump, timing belt and mounts
I read it's recommended to also change the fan clutch but at 71 dollars i thought it was a bit pricey
Any tips on removing the head?
Those 14 millimeter hex in the middle of the head need to come out right?
Last edited by dekarev; 02-02-13 at 09:48 PM.
#21
Man, I wish I could find a decent R154 in my area for a good price.
You can find new leather seat skins for around $400-500 and install them yourself. Not sure about the foam padding underneath. Pull the carpet out and pressure wash it. You won't believe how much dirt will come out of it! I found about $40 in change when I pulled my carpet out, along with a gold tooth and gold bracelet (sold them to a pawn shop for $350 ).
Good luck on your install.
You can find new leather seat skins for around $400-500 and install them yourself. Not sure about the foam padding underneath. Pull the carpet out and pressure wash it. You won't believe how much dirt will come out of it! I found about $40 in change when I pulled my carpet out, along with a gold tooth and gold bracelet (sold them to a pawn shop for $350 ).
Good luck on your install.
Last edited by SC300NW; 11-30-12 at 08:40 AM.
#22
Lead Lap
The 14mm hex don't need to come out, to take the head bolts off you'll need some 12pt star (socket or bit whatever they're called) a breaker bar with a nice length and be careful to not strip the inside, in most cases the head bolts gotta be replaced, if you have to then get some arp studs, and I don't think I should state the obvious but start removing them from the outside in lol. Good luck it's fun
#24
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Doubt its worth much.
Yeah. its my track/winter car haha
#27
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Removing the harmonic balancer..
and some intake manifold and valve cover cleaning
Removed the water pump, timing belt and cam gears and
off with its head!
Piece of advice to anyone removing head bolts:
Clean the head of the bolt using a q-tip before you try to loosen the bolt, it prevents them from stripping one like I did!
and some intake manifold and valve cover cleaning
Removed the water pump, timing belt and cam gears and
off with its head!
Piece of advice to anyone removing head bolts:
Clean the head of the bolt using a q-tip before you try to loosen the bolt, it prevents them from stripping one like I did!
Last edited by dekarev; 02-02-13 at 09:52 PM.
#28
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The seals aren't expensive at all but the head doesn't let me use my valve spring compressor.
I really don't want to have to buy one just to change the seals.
Next time I get a chance I'm going to try to use my biggest C clamp and a piece of pipe to see if I can do it that way.
#30
Pole Position