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8052JZ's NA-T Build

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Old 09-13-16, 12:47 PM
  #1066  
gerrb
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Sorry about the engine Richard. Well for stock internals , I guess that engine had just ran its course . On the bright side , your newly built engine will help you get more out of your turbo and more power .

Good Luck and More Power !!!
Old 09-13-16, 03:15 PM
  #1067  
8052JZ
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Thanks. btw if you still have the Weldon pump for sale, I may be interested. Going to need a big fuel setup like one of your cars.
Old 09-13-16, 04:34 PM
  #1068  
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Sent you a PM. I have a new phone number. PM me yours , I lost all my old contact numbers and that include yours , haha.
Old 09-13-16, 04:39 PM
  #1069  
InLyneTrbo
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Ouch, that's no fun.. But 2.5 years at 700+ hp, I'd be extremely happy with that as well! Pretty impressive. Looking forward to what kinda power she'll make in the future
Old 09-15-16, 10:01 AM
  #1070  
8052JZ
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So Here a little DIY. GTE oil pump. I did some reading and found alot of information on what the "modified" oil pumps are about. And to be honest its a really simple mod if you have the right tools. To do one pump is takes about 2 hours from start to finish. The goal here is too open up all the galleys and smooth out all the rough edges to get maximum oil flow through the pump and achieve a higher oil pressure. Anyone can do this instead of buying a modified pump for $250+.

I started looking a spare pump I had before I touched the brand new unit I pulled from the new motor.

Pump taken apart.
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There will be 7 area's you will want to open up. Relieve valve, bypass hole, main oil seal drain, 4 area's of feed and return galleys.
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Didn't get a pic of the drain hole before porting but you get the idea.

After port. Drill the holes out to the specs in the pic. After they are drilled, smooth out the sharp edges.
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Then reassemble the pump. Be sure to clean out the pump so there are no metal shaving inside the pump what so ever. I think I washed out the pump several times to make sure its was clean. Blew it out with air at 150psi to get absolutely everything out. After it was cleaned, add some assembly lube to the drive gear to get quicker oil pressure at first start up.

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I used stainless allen head bolts for the gear cover because the original bolts are to hard to torque down with a Philips driver. Torqued to 8ftlbs. You can also add a very small amount of blue lock tight making sure you don't get the lock tight inside the pump.

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To raise the oil pressure, you add a stainless .035" washer to the bypass valve. I believe this raises oil pressure to about 1Bar over stock. Put the valve back in torquing it down to 36ftlbs
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And there you have it. Your modified GTE oil pump.
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Last edited by 8052JZ; 09-15-16 at 10:18 AM.
Old 09-15-16, 10:44 AM
  #1071  
gerrb
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Nice ... now I know what to do next time and save at least $100

Thanks for that DIY !
Old 09-15-16, 02:40 PM
  #1072  
8052JZ
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Welcome! Hope other's will find this helpful. There's really no true DIY out there for this simply mod.
Old 09-27-16, 11:07 AM
  #1073  
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get her running already so we can boost all the things
Old 09-27-16, 12:31 PM
  #1074  
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Ever get to the bottom of the Rod knock? Failed Rod Bearing? Pics?
Old 09-27-16, 02:38 PM
  #1075  
8052JZ
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Still in the car.. Hope to get things moving soon here. The new torque converter is what will set me back the most as this point. With new power goals, my current converter will not hold. Same converter ID and Real Street are using in there 1200HP drag supra's. Pro-torque.
Old 09-29-16, 10:29 AM
  #1076  
8052JZ
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New motor is finally button up minus all the accessory's. In the next week or so I need to pull the motor out of the car and swap things over. Sensors, oil filter sandwich plate, water neck, alternator, power steering, flex plate etc..

The ATi pulley I got needed to be speced out to my crank. Bought a $15 1.375" hone to clean out and open up the ati hub.

As you can see, the crank neck is 1.3775" which is standard on most JZ cranks, and the ati hub out of the box was 1.3735". So it needed about .004 taken off. The ATi tolerance is .0007 to .0009. After honing it out some it's, perfecting in spec. I used a friends telescoping gauge to confirm instead of the calipers.

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Used the drill press to hone it.
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I also cut and clocked the rear water neck to move it away from the down pipe. In my current setup, the heater hose is nearly touching the down pipe and has always caused me to check on it from time to time. By doing this, I should a lot more room away from the down pipe.
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Old 10-05-16, 01:54 PM
  #1077  
8052JZ
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Got an awesome deal on a brand new Weldon 2345a fuel pump and controller. Give's you an idea of where I'm going with the new motor.

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Old 10-05-16, 03:11 PM
  #1078  
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dang I thought you were moving into a GTE .
Old 10-06-16, 10:38 AM
  #1079  
8052JZ
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Originally Posted by gerrb
dang I thought you were moving into a GTE .
LOL more cost effective for me to stay NA-T. Just swap parts over and upgrade a few things.

Last edited by 8052JZ; 10-06-16 at 10:48 AM.
Old 10-06-16, 12:30 PM
  #1080  
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Looking good! Make sure you put the balancer in the oven for a bit to expand it before putting it on the crank.

Steve K.


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