8052JZ's NA-T Build
05-22-14, 09:33 AM
#616
Hurst Line Lock Install on SC300 5spd
Line lock is in the bay and all that's left is to wire it up. I wont be using the wiring kit that it comes with because I want it to have an ARM switch to arm the system with a momentary switch. The momentary switch is what will activate the Line lock when pressed and held down. When released, it is deactivated. Than turn the switch off to make sure you don't accidentally press the button when driving.
1 x Hurst Line lock HUU-1745000 (comes as a kit or you can get just the line lock for cheaper.)
1 x EAR-592032ERL Male -3 AN to Male 10mm x 1.0 brake fittings (Brake Master Cylinder)
1 x EAR-989534ER Fitting, Brake, Male -3 AN to Female 10mm x 1.0 (goes to OEM hard brake Line)
2 x RUS-642441 Fitting, Straight, -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male (Line Lock Fittings)
1 x SUM-220302 Brake Line, Braided Stainless, 12 in. Length, Straight -3 AN Female, Straight -3 AN Female
1 x EAR-63011712ER Brake Line, Braided Stainless Steel, 12 in., -3 AN 90 Degree Female, -3 AN Straight female
2 x SUM-G1480 Allen Head Pipe Plug, 1/8 in. NPT (to plug up the rest of the ports on the line lock. I like using these for a flush look.)
Illuminated switch, momentary button and wire from radio shack about another $10
Total = +/- $160
First things first,
-> Attach the -3 to 1/8" npt fittings (RUS-642441) to the Line lock along with the 1/8" allen plug fittings (SUM-G1480). I used Teflon tape on the fittings but I think you don't have too. 1/8" plug fittings go to the "side ports".
-->Attach and tighten the -3 male to 10mm x 1.0 female adapter (RUS-641411) to the straight fitting brake line (SUM-220302). This line goes to the "bottom port" of the line lock as shown.
---->The brake line with the 90 degree fitting (EAR-63011712ER) goes from the master cylinder to the "top port" of the line lock.
Mount the Line lock.
Remove the hard brake line from the master cylinder with a 10mm wrench making sure you have a rag underneath to catch any fluid. Push and carefully bend the hard line towards the bottom of the car and out of the way.
----> Attach the -3 male to 10mm x 1.00 inverted flare brake fitting (EAR-592032ERL) to the master cylinder and tighten. Than Take the line with the 90 degree Fitting and tighten it to the master cylinder.
Take the other line with the brake fittings adapter (RUS-641411) attach and tighten it to the hard brake line that was pushed towards the bottom of the car using a 17mm wrench and a 10mm wrench.
Now your done with the hard part install. One thing to note is you can adjust the angle of the line lock by loosening the 14mm nut on top of the line lock and moving it as you need. I had to point mine down a bit to clear the FPR. Don't forget to tighten it back up.
Wiring will be another post once finished in the next day or so.
1 x Hurst Line lock HUU-1745000 (comes as a kit or you can get just the line lock for cheaper.)
1 x EAR-592032ERL Male -3 AN to Male 10mm x 1.0 brake fittings (Brake Master Cylinder)
1 x EAR-989534ER Fitting, Brake, Male -3 AN to Female 10mm x 1.0 (goes to OEM hard brake Line)
2 x RUS-642441 Fitting, Straight, -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male (Line Lock Fittings)
1 x SUM-220302 Brake Line, Braided Stainless, 12 in. Length, Straight -3 AN Female, Straight -3 AN Female
1 x EAR-63011712ER Brake Line, Braided Stainless Steel, 12 in., -3 AN 90 Degree Female, -3 AN Straight female
2 x SUM-G1480 Allen Head Pipe Plug, 1/8 in. NPT (to plug up the rest of the ports on the line lock. I like using these for a flush look.)
Illuminated switch, momentary button and wire from radio shack about another $10
Total = +/- $160
First things first,
-> Attach the -3 to 1/8" npt fittings (RUS-642441) to the Line lock along with the 1/8" allen plug fittings (SUM-G1480). I used Teflon tape on the fittings but I think you don't have too. 1/8" plug fittings go to the "side ports".
-->Attach and tighten the -3 male to 10mm x 1.0 female adapter (RUS-641411) to the straight fitting brake line (SUM-220302). This line goes to the "bottom port" of the line lock as shown.
---->The brake line with the 90 degree fitting (EAR-63011712ER) goes from the master cylinder to the "top port" of the line lock.
Mount the Line lock.
Remove the hard brake line from the master cylinder with a 10mm wrench making sure you have a rag underneath to catch any fluid. Push and carefully bend the hard line towards the bottom of the car and out of the way.
----> Attach the -3 male to 10mm x 1.00 inverted flare brake fitting (EAR-592032ERL) to the master cylinder and tighten. Than Take the line with the 90 degree Fitting and tighten it to the master cylinder.
Take the other line with the brake fittings adapter (RUS-641411) attach and tighten it to the hard brake line that was pushed towards the bottom of the car using a 17mm wrench and a 10mm wrench.
Now your done with the hard part install. One thing to note is you can adjust the angle of the line lock by loosening the 14mm nut on top of the line lock and moving it as you need. I had to point mine down a bit to clear the FPR. Don't forget to tighten it back up.
Wiring will be another post once finished in the next day or so.
05-22-14, 09:36 AM
#617
This is how I will be wiring the line lock. very simple. If I am wrong, please let me know so I can fix it.
Here is a few pics of the wiring all done. Very basic, just follow the diagram above and your set.
I added a connector for the line lock so in case I have to rebuild it or anything it will be any easy dismount.
Going through the drivers side wheel well. Black to ground red to momentary push button. push button the rocker switch.
Than I modified the shifter **** to accept the push button. It was a bit tricky but I got a nut shaved it down so It could be pressed into the **** and cut a section out so the wire can pass through on the outside of the threads. No pics but here it is.
And here it is all done. The rocker switch I happened to get fits perfectly into the cig lighter. All I used was the mount parts and the rest was taken off.
Ill be switching the rocker switch out to Red ones the store gets them in. But for now its a Greed LED switch.
Here is a few pics of the wiring all done. Very basic, just follow the diagram above and your set.
I added a connector for the line lock so in case I have to rebuild it or anything it will be any easy dismount.
Going through the drivers side wheel well. Black to ground red to momentary push button. push button the rocker switch.
Than I modified the shifter **** to accept the push button. It was a bit tricky but I got a nut shaved it down so It could be pressed into the **** and cut a section out so the wire can pass through on the outside of the threads. No pics but here it is.
And here it is all done. The rocker switch I happened to get fits perfectly into the cig lighter. All I used was the mount parts and the rest was taken off.
Ill be switching the rocker switch out to Red ones the store gets them in. But for now its a Greed LED switch.
Last edited by 8052JZ; 05-27-14 at 08:56 AM.
05-22-14, 04:26 PM
#620
As of right now the car is just sitting and collecting dust due to waiting for a spot to open for tune. I found a local tuner that will be tuning the car. RD Engineering that specialize in GTR's He currently has the fastest GTR in Cali at 9.13 at the quarter mile with stock twins. Its also half the cost of what FSR is charging. He his fully booked up until this summer but he will make some time in the next few weeks to get me in.
While I wait, my buddy and I are going to bend up a simple 4 or 6point cage when a friends bender is free.
Sitting duck... :/
While I wait, my buddy and I are going to bend up a simple 4 or 6point cage when a friends bender is free.
Sitting duck... :/
05-23-14, 08:58 AM
#625
Have you seen the 2jz TT speed boats that some have put together? They are sweet!
Btw, picked up the diff last night and it feels much tighten than it did. New bearings and back lash all adjusted and LSD seems to be fine per the builder. He said that the back lash was way off which is why I have been hearing that whine noise. Ill have it back in tonight. Ill drive around this weekend double checking everything to make sure its all good and ready for the tuner. Than next week its off to FSR.
Btw, picked up the diff last night and it feels much tighten than it did. New bearings and back lash all adjusted and LSD seems to be fine per the builder. He said that the back lash was way off which is why I have been hearing that whine noise. Ill have it back in tonight. Ill drive around this weekend double checking everything to make sure its all good and ready for the tuner. Than next week its off to FSR.
05-23-14, 01:35 PM
#626
Have you seen the 2jz TT speed boats that some have put together? They are sweet!
Btw, picked up the diff last night and it feels much tighten than it did. New bearings and back lash all adjusted and LSD seems to be fine per the builder. He said that the back lash was way off which is why I have been hearing that whine noise. Ill have it back in tonight. Ill drive around this weekend double checking everything to make sure its all good and ready for the tuner. Than next week its off to FSR.
Btw, picked up the diff last night and it feels much tighten than it did. New bearings and back lash all adjusted and LSD seems to be fine per the builder. He said that the back lash was way off which is why I have been hearing that whine noise. Ill have it back in tonight. Ill drive around this weekend double checking everything to make sure its all good and ready for the tuner. Than next week its off to FSR.
Last edited by MacGyverQu; 05-23-14 at 01:38 PM.
05-23-14, 01:50 PM
#627
