DoomLight's 1992 SC300 1JZ Swap & Build Thread
01-19-14, 07:58 PM
#394
I never even made it to the 500 horsepower bracket so I'm ready to upgrade and move on. as cool as it is to have around a thousand horsepower and be able to break the tires lose in any deer I think 600 is plenty fine.I might even go to using e85 and see what kind of power I get out of that just for horsepower numbers. I will be primarily using pump gas.
my next question is what kind of clutch do I go with I don't want to spend over $2000 on some overpriced clutch but I need something that's going to hold up to 600 horsepower and not cause crank walk. after a lot of reading and what I have experienced I believe that the ACT clutch I have on my car caused the crank walk and rod knock.
my next question is what kind of clutch do I go with I don't want to spend over $2000 on some overpriced clutch but I need something that's going to hold up to 600 horsepower and not cause crank walk. after a lot of reading and what I have experienced I believe that the ACT clutch I have on my car caused the crank walk and rod knock.
01-22-14, 05:45 AM
#400
I love vvti. But I think you're making a huge mistake here. Now you're going to have to pay extra for a tune, pay extra to get everything setup the way you want, pay extra for your downpipe to fit (you paid way too much for the one you got, although the coating was nice), and it's gonna be real hard for anyone to make vvti as good as toyota did. A proper 1.5j with what you got would be way more fun, simple, and easy IMO.
Also, your engine was probably toast in the first place. I have run an act extreme for 30k daily traffic miles and when the disc got so thin it couldn't dissipate heat anymore, it fused itself to my flywheel/pp. I now have 20k on an orc, easy 50-60k on the swap total, no issues. My gf rocks an rps which I know can crankwalk an engine as the 1j it came off of is locked up solid right now, but my friend who's supra it was in put like 22k on it with the NSW still engaged which meant 20k plus miles of starts with no oil pressure between the thrust washer.
Not saying this stuff doesn't happen, but how can I have two cars that haven't suffered these failures that got like 50 times more use than yours? Hard use. And to boot, mj vvti 1j daily had the 90k service done in japan as evidenced by the sticker and new condition of pump/seals/belt, so it wasn't a 30k mile specimen, probably 110k when I got my hands on it. Food for thought
Also, your engine was probably toast in the first place. I have run an act extreme for 30k daily traffic miles and when the disc got so thin it couldn't dissipate heat anymore, it fused itself to my flywheel/pp. I now have 20k on an orc, easy 50-60k on the swap total, no issues. My gf rocks an rps which I know can crankwalk an engine as the 1j it came off of is locked up solid right now, but my friend who's supra it was in put like 22k on it with the NSW still engaged which meant 20k plus miles of starts with no oil pressure between the thrust washer.
Not saying this stuff doesn't happen, but how can I have two cars that haven't suffered these failures that got like 50 times more use than yours? Hard use. And to boot, mj vvti 1j daily had the 90k service done in japan as evidenced by the sticker and new condition of pump/seals/belt, so it wasn't a 30k mile specimen, probably 110k when I got my hands on it. Food for thought
01-22-14, 07:45 AM
#401
1JZ Single SC400
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Vrank this is great info on possibly making him re-decide on his decision. I also have had the ACT clutch, Stage 4, with DM lightened flywheel and have had no issues. It has also been my daily driver for the past year now for the most part. I had the transmission out twice now to replace the blown rear main and the flywheel and clutch looked really good. I have had maybe 10K give or take on the current setup since the swap. I also agree that these things due happen, I hope you can decide which direction for sure you want to go with. GL, and I will be checking back often, expecting updates.
02-06-14, 06:34 PM
#402
i see what your saying Vrank. but i had no luck. never started the car with the clutch engaged. it still walked my crank. those clutches shouldn't be allowed to be sold. a pressure plate that causes damage to an engine is like being cigarettes, because you can still buy them even tho they are bad for you. ACT HD Extreme not safe.
02-06-14, 06:36 PM
#403
today i picked up this juicy little GEM!
motor is clean as hell inside. a nice golden oil colour. going to order my new CXracing Manifold to remount the turbo. keep an eye out in the for sale section. gonna sell off my 1jz parts. even the block if anyone even wants that.
motor is clean as hell inside. a nice golden oil colour. going to order my new CXracing Manifold to remount the turbo. keep an eye out in the for sale section. gonna sell off my 1jz parts. even the block if anyone even wants that.
02-07-14, 05:45 AM
#405
gte & na-t
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then i just have to install the motha sukka!You think so? 
I had a crankwalk on act clutch same clutch you got mine was rated for 632tq i had 2 of these clutches because they hold the power with no problem, but i cost me 1 block , time and money remember i do alll my labor.
I want 800whp on my setup but why do you guys think i am still using the stock 7mgte pressure plate? I don't even wanna think about pulling engine back out .
right now if i but that act PP my car will make 750-760whp and i will be very happy with that power for a little while but it will cost me an engine and i decided not to do it
even with the clutch bypassed you will crankwalk
As a victim here are my answers
the two or really one washer that keeps your crank from going back and forth
gets thinner and thinner until it can’t take the load of the pressure plate when the clutch is depressed and it fails.
You will have metal in your pan and the thrust washers will fall in there too
but not after taking a ride around your lower block.
Your oil pump will suck up all that powdered metal and distribute it throughout your whole engine,
this process scored up my cam journals pretty badly.
When you get hit with the walk your car will stall when you push in the clutch.
it will be hard to start with the clutch pushed in.
You will have to flush the Turbo, it might take your Turbo out too..
I am not trying to be negative here , this is just a warming so you know what your are gettting
yourself into.
I had a crankwalk on act clutch same clutch you got mine was rated for 632tq i had 2 of these clutches because they hold the power with no problem, but i cost me 1 block , time and money remember i do alll my labor.
I want 800whp on my setup but why do you guys think i am still using the stock 7mgte pressure plate? I don't even wanna think about pulling engine back out .
right now if i but that act PP my car will make 750-760whp and i will be very happy with that power for a little while but it will cost me an engine and i decided not to do it
even with the clutch bypassed you will crankwalk
As a victim here are my answers
the two or really one washer that keeps your crank from going back and forth
gets thinner and thinner until it can’t take the load of the pressure plate when the clutch is depressed and it fails.
You will have metal in your pan and the thrust washers will fall in there too
but not after taking a ride around your lower block.
Your oil pump will suck up all that powdered metal and distribute it throughout your whole engine,
this process scored up my cam journals pretty badly.
When you get hit with the walk your car will stall when you push in the clutch.
it will be hard to start with the clutch pushed in.
You will have to flush the Turbo, it might take your Turbo out too..
I am not trying to be negative here , this is just a warming so you know what your are gettting
yourself into.
ok here are a few updates.
i changed the clutch last week. i put in an ACT Extreme Clutch kit i got used from a boardmember nikoy.
it has about 700 miles on it or so. looks in great condition so i went with it.
and here is the disc. its a 6 puck.
next i removed the transmission. not many pics here. all i can tell u is it was kinda difficult at first. but i had it out in about 90 minutes.
removing the pressure plate was a first for me on this type of pressure plate setup. apparently toyota/aisin made it so you have to remove a C-clip and pull out a pin to release the Fork then you can pull out the pressure plate. that is why you have those 2 openings on the sides. lemme tell you. you NEED small *** hands to get in there to do that.
moving along here are a few pics of the under side. i didnt remove the pressure plate. because i didnt have the money to buy new flywheel bolts... they are like 10 bux a piece... MY COST at toyota. so i decided against that. the rear main wasn't leaking anyway.
when i removed the old clutch. i found it was replaced not too long after it was dismantled in japan. so i may just sell it. im sure someone can use a slightly used OEM clutch on the cheap.
anyway its all done now. it doesn't feel that much different from the stock clutch to me. i have to bleed it a bit more but other than that its okay.
please dont remind me about the horror stories of this infamous clutch and pressure plate. im aware of it and i will deal with it if i am of the unlucky that what they are known for afflict me.
i changed the clutch last week. i put in an ACT Extreme Clutch kit i got used from a boardmember nikoy.
it has about 700 miles on it or so. looks in great condition so i went with it.
and here is the disc. its a 6 puck.
next i removed the transmission. not many pics here. all i can tell u is it was kinda difficult at first. but i had it out in about 90 minutes.
removing the pressure plate was a first for me on this type of pressure plate setup. apparently toyota/aisin made it so you have to remove a C-clip and pull out a pin to release the Fork then you can pull out the pressure plate. that is why you have those 2 openings on the sides. lemme tell you. you NEED small *** hands to get in there to do that.
moving along here are a few pics of the under side. i didnt remove the pressure plate. because i didnt have the money to buy new flywheel bolts... they are like 10 bux a piece... MY COST at toyota. so i decided against that. the rear main wasn't leaking anyway.
when i removed the old clutch. i found it was replaced not too long after it was dismantled in japan. so i may just sell it. im sure someone can use a slightly used OEM clutch on the cheap.
anyway its all done now. it doesn't feel that much different from the stock clutch to me. i have to bleed it a bit more but other than that its okay.
please dont remind me about the horror stories of this infamous clutch and pressure plate. im aware of it and i will deal with it if i am of the unlucky that what they are known for afflict me.
i see what your saying Vrank. but i had no luck. never started the car with the clutch engaged. it still walked my crank. those clutches shouldn't be allowed to be sold. a pressure plate that causes damage to an engine is like being cigarettes, because you can still buy them even tho they are bad for you. ACT HD Extreme not safe.
I hate that clutch with passion, i've tried them all.. and i've lost 4 engines with that POS Clutch.