2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
09-04-15, 04:47 PM
#3185
Now I guess my new sleeper doesn't look too bad compared to my other two SCs . Will start buttoning it up so I can break it in for around 500 miles with stock components before I head to the dyno to make the big power . Breaking it in with stock 440cc injectors / JDM supra mkiv ECU allows you to control the break in environment. There are less factors to consider. The car should run like stock up to 11psi of boost. When everything is good and there are no fluid leaks whatsoever then go to the dyno. The worst thing is renting dyno time then start the tuning just to have fluid leaks or have any other problems and have to stop the tuning . It is a waste of time and money.
This will be a hell of a daily driver having the power to support my ego on the streets and outrun most cars without the lag of bigger turbos. It will have the following specs that will help it dip into the +1000rwhp anytime it is needed . I just freaking hope that ATF tranny , which was never tested as far as I know on a +1000rwhp level, at least survives the dyno. So far I have no problem on a 850rwhp level on my other SC. I don't for see the +1000rwhp power being used on the streets anyway and I do not abuse my cars just like the way they are used on the drag strips so I just want the tranny to survive the tuning / dyno time so I don't have to install either a 4L80e or TH400 auto transmission.
Built 2JZGTE / Auto Trans Drivetrain with basically most parts if not all new :
CP Pistons with upgraded Wrist Pins
Crower Billet I-Beam Rods with Crower 90827 220psi 3/8 rod bolts
ACL Bearings
Ported Head with +1 Ferrea Valve Train
Crower 264 Cams
Precision PT-6870 Gen 2 CEA BB
SP Quick Spool Valve
NX EXpress Direct Port Nitrous up to 200 shots
Tial BLow Off Valve
TurboSmart Wastegate
Titan Motorsports Dampener
Titan Motorsports Billet tensioner
ATF Built A340 Transmission
3.76 TRD LSD Differential
Triple Denso Pump
10an Feed Lines / -8an return
Siemens 2433cc Fuel Injectors on dual -10an Fuel Rail
ProEFI 128 / Color Can Display
4" downpipe / midpipe
3" Dual Mufflers
5" Front Mount Inter-cooler with 3" pipings
Mickey Thompson Drag Radials 295/50r16
Old Man's Tan Target HP : +1000rwhp
Red Mamba One Current HP : 850rwhp
Red Mamba Two Current HP : 400rwhp
This will be a hell of a daily driver having the power to support my ego on the streets and outrun most cars without the lag of bigger turbos. It will have the following specs that will help it dip into the +1000rwhp anytime it is needed . I just freaking hope that ATF tranny , which was never tested as far as I know on a +1000rwhp level, at least survives the dyno. So far I have no problem on a 850rwhp level on my other SC. I don't for see the +1000rwhp power being used on the streets anyway and I do not abuse my cars just like the way they are used on the drag strips so I just want the tranny to survive the tuning / dyno time so I don't have to install either a 4L80e or TH400 auto transmission.
Built 2JZGTE / Auto Trans Drivetrain with basically most parts if not all new :
CP Pistons with upgraded Wrist Pins
Crower Billet I-Beam Rods with Crower 90827 220psi 3/8 rod bolts
ACL Bearings
Ported Head with +1 Ferrea Valve Train
Crower 264 Cams
Precision PT-6870 Gen 2 CEA BB
SP Quick Spool Valve
NX EXpress Direct Port Nitrous up to 200 shots
Tial BLow Off Valve
TurboSmart Wastegate
Titan Motorsports Dampener
Titan Motorsports Billet tensioner
ATF Built A340 Transmission
3.76 TRD LSD Differential
Triple Denso Pump
10an Feed Lines / -8an return
Siemens 2433cc Fuel Injectors on dual -10an Fuel Rail
ProEFI 128 / Color Can Display
4" downpipe / midpipe
3" Dual Mufflers
5" Front Mount Inter-cooler with 3" pipings
Mickey Thompson Drag Radials 295/50r16
Old Man's Tan Target HP : +1000rwhp
Red Mamba One Current HP : 850rwhp
Red Mamba Two Current HP : 400rwhp
Last edited by gerrb; 09-06-15 at 04:20 AM.
09-05-15, 11:06 AM
#3186
It won't be Lexus without the luxury features hahaha . I would like to keep all its original features functioning. Did some modifications so I can keep the cruise control system . It can be useful while cruising on the highway and besides it looks more stock on the engine bay. Painted my ABS also black in color .
Cruise Motor installed back with its cover wrinkled paint.
Cruise cable installed. One thing I realized , if you have an SC400, you don't really need a MKIV accelerator cable . With a little re positioning of the bracket , you can get an SC400 cable to work on a 2jzgte swap.
Cruise Motor installed back with its cover wrinkled paint.
Cruise cable installed. One thing I realized , if you have an SC400, you don't really need a MKIV accelerator cable . With a little re positioning of the bracket , you can get an SC400 cable to work on a 2jzgte swap.
Last edited by gerrb; 09-05-15 at 02:46 PM.
09-06-15, 10:31 AM
#3189
Thank you Sir . Just trying my best to have fast cars with nice and presentable engine bays. Maybe later be busy with their external appearances once they are all running exactly the way I wanted them to. Am really still at a crossroad whether I will work on the 1997 SC300 5 speed or not 
.
Now I need to wrinkle paint and mount my Power Steering Reservoir near the strut tower, route the engine harness into the cabin then do my -10an breather lines to the catch can and to the intake. Then bolt the 4" downpipe / midpipe and driveshaft .
I don't have 3" J & U shape inter cooler pipes so I need to order some and a couple of 3.5" clamps and 3" 45 degrees silicone hoses. Get a 4" V-band welded to the Y-pipe of my 3" dual mufflers so it will mate to the 4" midpipe vband ... then I can fire this bad boy up.
. Now I need to wrinkle paint and mount my Power Steering Reservoir near the strut tower, route the engine harness into the cabin then do my -10an breather lines to the catch can and to the intake. Then bolt the 4" downpipe / midpipe and driveshaft .
I don't have 3" J & U shape inter cooler pipes so I need to order some and a couple of 3.5" clamps and 3" 45 degrees silicone hoses. Get a 4" V-band welded to the Y-pipe of my 3" dual mufflers so it will mate to the 4" midpipe vband ... then I can fire this bad boy up.
Last edited by gerrb; 09-06-15 at 05:53 PM.
09-10-15, 01:44 AM
#3193
Thank you Sir . Just trying my best to have fast cars with nice and presentable engine bays. Maybe later be busy with their external appearances once they are all running exactly the way I wanted them to. Am really still at a crossroad whether I will work on the 1997 SC300 5 speed or not .
Now I need to wrinkle paint and mount my Power Steering Reservoir near the strut tower, route the engine harness into the cabin then do my -10an breather lines to the catch can and to the intake. Then bolt the 4" downpipe / midpipe and driveshaft .
I don't have 3" J & U shape inter cooler pipes so I need to order some and a couple of 3.5" clamps and 3" 45 degrees silicone hoses. Get a 4" V-band welded to the Y-pipe of my 3" dual mufflers so it will mate to the 4" midpipe vband ... then I can fire this bad boy up.
. Now I need to wrinkle paint and mount my Power Steering Reservoir near the strut tower, route the engine harness into the cabin then do my -10an breather lines to the catch can and to the intake. Then bolt the 4" downpipe / midpipe and driveshaft .
I don't have 3" J & U shape inter cooler pipes so I need to order some and a couple of 3.5" clamps and 3" 45 degrees silicone hoses. Get a 4" V-band welded to the Y-pipe of my 3" dual mufflers so it will mate to the 4" midpipe vband ... then I can fire this bad boy up.
As always gerrb, that looks great
09-10-15, 02:04 AM
#3194
thank you sir
Hahaha ... well we all know how you get broke if you don't play your cards well when you have these performance cars 
. They become money pit if you are not careful. You have to spend to do things right . Some people claim that high hp cars do not run well or are unreliable. That to me is plain BS. It is all about how it is built . A lot of people want a fast car but wouldn't spend on the right parts and wouldn't get it done with the right people. And many times these are the same people you hear saying high hp cars are unreliable. There are tons of reliable high hp cars. In fact a lot of new production sports cars are now at +600rwhp and above .
This is where working on your own car or building it yourself help save tons of money
. Nobody will care better about your interest but yourself. But truly , been broke for a long time now, lmaol.
Damn Dennis, when you are driving a car that is + 800rwhp , trying to feel that difference of where air is coming from for the turbo is the least of your concern. Keeping the car on the road needs more your attention , J/K 
The principle is cooler air on the intake provides more power . The air filter being away from the engine bay and down there where it gets fresh air from the front air dam opening allows it to get the cold incoming air and away from the engine bay heat. But if you observe well my intake pipe , it is cut in two and there is a clamp. So when it rains, I can take that filter , remove the lower portion of the intake pipe and put the filter inside the bay. You don't want to be driving around in rain and getting your air filter wet and ingest water .... good recipe for locking and damaging your engine. Observe how the drag cars even cut a hole into their right head lights for that intake pipe just to get cooler air.
On my new daily driver , I will keep it inside the bay since it will be a lot of work to be moving that air filter around every time it freaking rains which can happen about just any time for a daily driver car . I will compensate it with a better heat exchanger / intercooler where the air cooling happens before it gets into the throttle body.
Yesterday got the PS reservoir in place
engine harness routed inside the cabin
. They become money pit if you are not careful. You have to spend to do things right . Some people claim that high hp cars do not run well or are unreliable. That to me is plain BS. It is all about how it is built . A lot of people want a fast car but wouldn't spend on the right parts and wouldn't get it done with the right people. And many times these are the same people you hear saying high hp cars are unreliable. There are tons of reliable high hp cars. In fact a lot of new production sports cars are now at +600rwhp and above .This is where working on your own car or building it yourself help save tons of money
. Nobody will care better about your interest but yourself. But truly , been broke for a long time now, lmaol. The principle is cooler air on the intake provides more power . The air filter being away from the engine bay and down there where it gets fresh air from the front air dam opening allows it to get the cold incoming air and away from the engine bay heat. But if you observe well my intake pipe , it is cut in two and there is a clamp. So when it rains, I can take that filter , remove the lower portion of the intake pipe and put the filter inside the bay. You don't want to be driving around in rain and getting your air filter wet and ingest water .... good recipe for locking and damaging your engine. Observe how the drag cars even cut a hole into their right head lights for that intake pipe just to get cooler air.
On my new daily driver , I will keep it inside the bay since it will be a lot of work to be moving that air filter around every time it freaking rains which can happen about just any time for a daily driver car . I will compensate it with a better heat exchanger / intercooler where the air cooling happens before it gets into the throttle body.
Yesterday got the PS reservoir in place
engine harness routed inside the cabin
Last edited by gerrb; 09-10-15 at 11:52 AM.
09-12-15, 03:40 PM
#3195
Today , I started inspecting the head and block for the NA-T setup which I will build so I can temporarily use on the 1997 SC300 5speed. It will take a while for me to collect the parts for my VVTi 3.4 stroker setup that was meant to go into this car. It will cost me between $12k - $15k just for the long block . So just to get it running while collecting those stroker parts, I will slap an NA-T for which I have 95% of the parts already.
I don't mean to offend the 1jzgte fanatics but if you already have an SC300 which has a 2JZ and don't have the funds to go to a 2JZGTE setup , just build the 2jzge or if it still has a good leakdown and compression numbers, don't even break down the short block , it should allow you to easily get 400 - 600 rwhp without spending a lot of money. A 2JZ has a 3.0 displacement so I would always prefer it over a 1jzgte which has a 2.5 any time of the day.
Decided to tear apart the 2jzGE engine since I am installing all ARP hardware and a GTE head gasket, clean up the head and install new valve seals. I wasn't happy with the leakdown numbers so I will replace the piston rings and hone the cylinders. If your short block has good compression and leakdown numbers , AGAIN DON'T EVEN TOUCH IT IF YOU DON'T WANT TO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY.
I don't mean to offend the 1jzgte fanatics but if you already have an SC300 which has a 2JZ and don't have the funds to go to a 2JZGTE setup , just build the 2jzge or if it still has a good leakdown and compression numbers, don't even break down the short block , it should allow you to easily get 400 - 600 rwhp without spending a lot of money. A 2JZ has a 3.0 displacement so I would always prefer it over a 1jzgte which has a 2.5 any time of the day.
Decided to tear apart the 2jzGE engine since I am installing all ARP hardware and a GTE head gasket, clean up the head and install new valve seals. I wasn't happy with the leakdown numbers so I will replace the piston rings and hone the cylinders. If your short block has good compression and leakdown numbers , AGAIN DON'T EVEN TOUCH IT IF YOU DON'T WANT TO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY.
Last edited by gerrb; 09-12-15 at 03:56 PM.