2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
03-02-15, 01:48 AM
#2806
Thanks buddy ! That red MKIV is now giving me a head ache. I don't know if I will keep it or sell it. If I do keep it , then one of my SC project will have to be shelved in favour of the Supra. That will leave me with 3 MKIVs and 3 SCs , 2jzgte Toys.
Regarding that Supra...no fair. 
03-02-15, 02:12 AM
#2807
So I was able to get my 97+ cluster swapped this morning. I cannot thank Gerrb enough for all of the help he has provided. Once I stopped being dumb, I was able to quickly wire in the new cluster and was ready to rock and roll. My car is a 93' 5 speed with a 1JZ swap and I used a 98+ cluster (see the shift pattern on my picture).
Everything works great - aside from a few things that I will figure out at a later date. I don't believe the CEL is working, and when I push the clutch in, I get 3 lights. Not really sure what's going on there, but I will figure it out. Also, I need to clean the plastic on the gauges, but that will have to be done next week.
Overall, the instructions were clear and Gerrb has provided CL with a great resource to use newer clusters instead of replacing needles and bulbs non-stop.
Thanks again Gerrb, your help is/was greatly appreciated!
On to the good stuff!
Everything works great - aside from a few things that I will figure out at a later date. I don't believe the CEL is working, and when I push the clutch in, I get 3 lights. Not really sure what's going on there, but I will figure it out. Also, I need to clean the plastic on the gauges, but that will have to be done next week.
Overall, the instructions were clear and Gerrb has provided CL with a great resource to use newer clusters instead of replacing needles and bulbs non-stop.
Thanks again Gerrb, your help is/was greatly appreciated!
On to the good stuff!
Trenton - you are welcome and am glad you are successful on your 97+ (newer) cluster conversion.,
Those problems you have mentioned have easy fixes.
a) Lights coming on when you press the clutch
You disconnect the wire on C12 of 93 cluster OR D12 of 98 cluster . You have a 5 speed. That wire is only for those with Auto Transmissions and is connected to the clutch switch on 5 speed cars or Park Neutral Switch on Auto Transmission cars. So, every time you press the clutch, current flow or power is provided to the circuitry of those lights you mentioned that is why they light up .
I encircled in yellow the cause of your problem...that wire is only for A/T
b) CEL do not work
First make sure CEL bulb is good.
If it is, make sure B3 of 93 cluster or A4 of 98 Cluster is connected to IK2 9 . ( white plug with 25 pins on post 63 of this thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...de-easy-5.html )
AND IK2 9 is connected to Pin 6 of the 40 pin Connector of the 2JZ ECU or whatever pin is for the Check Engine Light of your ECU (e.g. MK3 1jzgte ECU -> Warning Light is Pin 4 of Connector T I believe)
You can trace on the diagrams below where that B3 goes -> IK2 9 -> Pin 6 of 40 pin of ECU
Last edited by gerrb; 03-02-15 at 09:26 AM.
03-03-15, 06:00 PM
#2813
Wow Gerrb, I take off for a few days and come back to this!!!! lol, another car (Supra) and the Red Mamba running! Nice! And you're a 100% correct, doing right by folks pays off! Glad the Supra went to you...and that engine, hmmmmm??? Looks ready for Ms. Teally? LOL
03-04-15, 03:46 AM
#2814
.... My dilemma is it's a 6speed shell. I already have 2 6speed MKIVs. If I keep it , I might have to give up Black Pearl , the rare 1997 5speed SC 
We will get something going for your Ms. Teally once you are back buddy.
Last edited by gerrb; 03-04-15 at 04:21 AM.
03-04-15, 04:32 PM
#2815
20 miles after start up and driving around between 2000-3500rpm, putting load on the engine, tonight I replaced the initial break in oil I poured into the engine. All the dirt from the assembly, from the honed cylinders while rings are seating should be poured out. You don't want that staying for long in the engine and go to places where it should not be like bearings.
Your first couple of miles / minutes from start up are the most important time for a newly built engine . Your piston rings seating properly on the cylinders is very important since it will spell how good your performance engine will perform and how long it will last. Break in oils manufactured by oil companies helps facilitate that seating of piston rings. They always say that as long as you use mineral oil , you will be fine. But I opt to use break in oil which have more zinc to help in the break in process of the newly built engine.
This next break in oil will be in the engine for the next 500 miles and then I will switch to Valvoline VR1 20w50 Racing Oil which I use in all my toys.
Your first couple of miles / minutes from start up are the most important time for a newly built engine . Your piston rings seating properly on the cylinders is very important since it will spell how good your performance engine will perform and how long it will last. Break in oils manufactured by oil companies helps facilitate that seating of piston rings. They always say that as long as you use mineral oil , you will be fine. But I opt to use break in oil which have more zinc to help in the break in process of the newly built engine.
This next break in oil will be in the engine for the next 500 miles and then I will switch to Valvoline VR1 20w50 Racing Oil which I use in all my toys.
Last edited by gerrb; 03-04-15 at 05:46 PM.
03-05-15, 01:32 AM
#2818
Don't we all learn something new everyday 
lmaol ....mineral oil is the conventional oil (Non Synthetic) regularly used on your car. Do not confuse it with coconut oil or cooking coil...
I was playing with you yesterday on my text messages about breaking in a newly built engine. If you read again my messages I said ..."If you want you can use Minola Cooking Oil or Coconut Oil, LMAOL "
NO YOU CANNOT USE coconut or cooking oil. LMAOL, that is only for fried chicken and not piston rings . . Try using it and you will have an engine crispier than Popeye's Fried Chicken , lol.
Besides, your engine do not need breaking in. You didn't replace oil rings nor did you hone your cylinders nor had new head work done.
I was playing with you yesterday on my text messages about breaking in a newly built engine. If you read again my messages I said ..."If you want you can use Minola Cooking Oil or Coconut Oil, LMAOL "NO YOU CANNOT USE coconut or cooking oil. LMAOL, that is only for fried chicken and not piston rings .
. Try using it and you will have an engine crispier than Popeye's Fried Chicken , lol.Besides, your engine do not need breaking in. You didn't replace oil rings nor did you hone your cylinders nor had new head work done.
Last edited by gerrb; 03-05-15 at 05:16 AM.
03-05-15, 08:43 AM
#2819
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very good video from Jay at real street performance on engine break in.
he's a very good engine builder, specialized in 2jz. he's one of the opinions that i respect when it comes to anything automotive.
03-06-15, 05:00 PM
#2820
I am keeping the red Supra 6 speed shell and will be my next 6 speed project instead of the 1997 SC300 5 speed . So, all my 3 MKIVs will have V160 6 speed and all my 3 SCs will have ATF built auto transmissions. Thinking about it, once I am tired of these cars , a 6 speed MKIV will sell a lot better ,and even make money, compared to a 6 speed SC.
That means I am giving up the rare 1997 Lexus SC300 5 speed as a shell . Who ever is interested PM me. I will give someone a good deal on that rare shell . I will use the black interior though on the RSP SC so it won't come with interior. The car has 115k original miles on the body.
That means I am giving up the rare 1997 Lexus SC300 5 speed as a shell
. Who ever is interested PM me. I will give someone a good deal on that rare shell . I will use the black interior though on the RSP SC so it won't come with interior. The car has 115k original miles on the body.
Last edited by gerrb; 03-06-15 at 05:10 PM.
