gerrb

iTrader: (34)

With regards the 4L80E, it was Patrick from ATFSpeed that I had been talking to. I just had a conversation with him the other day again. He is a very nice guy to talk and deal with based on my experience. I called him since I wanted to confirm that ATF built A340 I just bought from someone at SF. I wanted to make sure it was an authentic ATF and he indeed verified it. Shane going ProEFI is your best choice for any auto tranny aside from the more expensive ones like Motec . You have a good tuner in your area too. I have no complaints with it on my Red Mamba One with the ATF tranny.

It is good to know about other options just like what you guys said , Jake Performance with regards the 4L80E. I test fitted the 4L80E that I have with me that came out from one of my SUVs and that needs rebuilding. Indeed the tunnel needs some massaging that is why I am doing more research on how to do it properly on our SCs, aside from the fact that I want it also cost effective. I only want something a little more than 1000rwhp on a 4L80E . It will be a street car and not a drag car or dyno queen. To hell with dyno queens. I am now building my cars so I will enjoy them on the streets. I am strapping one of the new GEN2 Precision Turbos like PT6870 on a stroker with a VVTI head. A true 1000rwhp street car which has a lot of torque and negligible lag will be really fun.

That is why I want to try one ATF A340 if it will survive on the dyno with that power. Afterall , you will more likely never be able to use that 1000rwhp on the streets. You will need a long long long stretch of road ... . Though I have those roads going to our place in the South , in the boonies. But Patrick told me their ATF 340 is rated to around 850rwhp only that is why I am afraid it might give way on the 1000-1100rwhp mark, reason I was looking at the 4L80E option.

So what again is the total with Jakes Performance with the converter once said and done ? How much are we looking at ?

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Gerry, not sure on total cost with labor sense I plan to build mine but I think it is close to 5k all said and done. Don't quote me on that but its roughly around that price. I plan to build mine to hold at least 1500hp just so I know I wont really have to worry about things breaking when pushing the trans and have nearly a bullet proof auto for on and off the highway.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the info Richard. Good for you , you can work on the trannies. You also got the tools which make it easier . I don't think I want to tinker with them .

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

The weather is kinda cold so I can't do any painting on the Red Mamba Two engine bay. This is how it looks right now. I need to remove the break booster , do a lot of sanding , primer then painting.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Decided to start cleaning the stock head for my run around 2jzgte SC. First it needs to be dis-assembled then you can clean or get it hot tanked. Mine is not that bad so I am doing the cleaning myself and beside I am trying to save.... hahaha.... .. am cheap .





Needs cleaning






I don't have any spring compressor or the Toyotool Valvmaster which can make life easier so I had to use what I had....a pvc pipe, a magnet and screw driver. I told you I am cheap.



You should cut a small opening at the end of the pvc pipe. Use the magnet to get those valve locks or they will be flying all over the place. And use the screw driver to press on that pvc that decompresses the spring




There you see the valve locks on the magnet




As Ryan and Ali said, you can use plastic trays or whatever to organize what you take out so you know where they came from



The valve seal needs to be taken out before cleaning it up and be replaced after cleaning. The JZ engines are notorious for start up smoke which is due to leaking valve seals so you better replace them while engine is out.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Your ingenuity never cease to amaze us! I like the home-made tools! lol

steve

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

ala McGyver huh ?

If you still have the stock springs / retainers... that can be done. Even re-installing is just the opposite , just with a small piece of cardboard on top of the retainer to hold the valve locks before pushing the spring down with the pvc.

IF you have upgraded or dual springs... , it will be harder because the spring will be more stiff so you probabably have to use a better tool if you are not as strong as Hulk Hogan that can easily push and compress that spring or you can use a rubber mallet to tap that screwdriver / pvc to compress spring.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Look good Gerry.

Here's how my OCD kicked in when taking engine apart...Key is to take your time and label everything...makes it much easier to put back together







FYI.....the toyotool is worth it......taking it apart I was able to use a socket and magnet.....but re installation I wasnt able to compress the spring enough.....Literally can do the whole head in less than 15 min with the toyotool

I had my head resurfaced and cleaned at a local machine shop......It was only about $90 maybe less I cant remember......but here is the result....Looks brand new...

They even resurfaced intake and exhaust faces for me...

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

That looks good Ryan... .... I am cheap.. hahahaha.

did put the caps on a basin of fuel for a while to take out grime and stubborn dirt.



if your cam lobes have develop fine rust, get a 1500 grit of sandpaper and polish them. Do not use coarse grit or you will get those cam journals not round... you basically just like micropolish them to take out fine rust and dirt.




While working on the head.. my UPS friend came around . What have we got here ?




The ATF Auto Tranny I bought for $2277 shipped and normally will be $3500 ($2800 for rebuild + $300 USDM Core + $400 shipping back and forth ).

I believe I will install this on the Red Mamba Two so it can be pushed when its time to go single. One thing though, the tranny was not anymore dry..and these shipping companies rolled that bucket so you see a little of fresh Toyota ATF fluid sipped out from the dipstick tube . I just had to wipe it off that's why tranny casing is shinny ... GGGGGRRRRRR...

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

For me, if your head and block are straight and clean, I prefer them not to be decked or milled. IF those freaking machine shops are not familiar or really do not work with JZ engines, they maybe taking out so much that your compression changes or your engine becomes an interference engine...that means your valves will hit the pistons when your timing belt breaks. That is the very reason I prefer my block and head not to be milled if not absolutely necessary. These are second hand engines we are buying from these JDM dealers whose history we do not know.Before we know it, they already have been milled before. So if I can get away without any decking or milling .. better I believe.


Spent maybe 30 minutes cleaning up and checking flatness of the head. Tomorrow I will spend more time cleaning it.



Am slowly having some progress on Red Mamba Two.....

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Soooooooooooooooo nice! Shiny too! UPS hasn't stopped by house in a long time...summer is coming!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

You better start gathering your parts brother so we can do your swap this summer !

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

While I was inspecting the head, I figured while it is disassembled, I will do some basic head porting. I have attached a file below if you guys want to have a basic idea for head porting.

I will do the intake and exhaust port matching at least. If you observe the head exhaust ports in the picture, they are smaller than the gasket . It can be same with the intake ports. More air into the chamber , more fuel and more power. Take note though that in head porting, bigger does not necessarily equate to better. There are other factors to be taken cared of like intake ports are not really shiny . There is a reason why they are rough while exhaust ports are polished so carbon deposits will find it hard to stick and restricts exhaust flow.

After having ported it , I will get it hot tanked so all the dirt and grinded materials will be washed out.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Head is clean .




Took out the old valve stem seals. Usually on the exhaust side a part of the seal is always left on the valve guide so you need to fish that thing out otherwise the valve stem seal wont do its job well.. you will have oil leak






New valve stem seals installed. If you are using OEM /. Stock Valve stem seals the bronze colored ones are for the intake side and the silver / gray colored ones are for the exhaust side. Aftermarket ones usually are labeled just like Ferrea says exhaust or intake on the bag.



I should be able mate the head with the short block tomorrow

I am using all ARP hardware on Red Mamba Two .. Mains , Rod Bolts and Head studs. For the head studs, use the bigger stock washers. The small ARP washers have been proven to be the cause of the head lifting and head gasket problems . Why ? because the smaller washer embeds themselves on the aluminum head and has smaller clamping area than the bigger OEM head washer.

the ones on the plastic bag are the ARP washers that are smaller than the OEM washers, so use the stock washer with your ARP head studs.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Head is ready










The stock 2jzgte engines produces 280-300 HP... now a days we try to push them a lot to make twice , trice or four times the power ...revving them a lot higher.

The timing gear of a 2jzgte looks like this and I do need to modify it a bit for safety reasons



What the crank sensor uses for signals is not welded. It is just held in place by a notch.



So it tends to be displaced at times when you revved the engine higher to make more horsepower. So if you can weld that , it would be a lot safer..otherwise your engine can go kaboooommm if that thing separates



I got to weld it this way so it stays as one piece whenever I rev the engine higher