irondonkey

can you be my teacher when i refresh the 2jzgte i get? since you're down the street and all hahah

my plan is to replace the bearings, as well as all the belts/accessories.

just general maintenance. i've never messed with the bottom end, it would be awesome to have your expertise!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Sure, I can help you out. But if your engine has a good compression and leakdown numbers, I wont even replace the bearings / piston rings. The only reason I replaced them on Red Mamba Two was because I got those for free. They would only be put aside if I don't use them. Using ARP hardware , all you need is know the torque specs. Replacing waterpump / oil pump is easy. Again the Supra MKIV TSRM will be your best friend. I can give you a copy.

irondonkey

i figured it would be a good idea to refresh the engine on a part like that. i only want to replace the bearings though. i'd leave the pistons and rings still on the block, while removing the bottom end.

good idea, no?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

In a way you are right, whatever good you can do while engine is out do it and if you have the parts.

IMHO, replacing bearings is not as easy as taking out the old and installing the new ones. You are buying an engine whose history you don't really know. You will need to do a lot of measurements when you change bearings like crank journals diameters so you know what size of bearings you need. The bearing clearances are very important. If not done right, you spin a bearing , there goes your engine and probably some of its parts.

You change bearing, you need to replace the TTY main and rod bolts...added costs if you where not originally planning to replace them. That is why for me, if engine was good ... I will not replace what you don't really need to replace especially if you are not looking for crazy power that the current parts cannot support.

Just my $0.02 and either way I will help you out. Just don't call me at the middle of the night asking questions . It happens, my friends in the west coast at times forget that we have a 3 hour difference . And again, I am not a mechanic or pro in this field, just an enthusiast like you who probably is just a few pages ahead on the TSRM .... probably not even .

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

I rebuilt my engine using soley the TSRM......it is very easy to follow..This was my first ever engine build...

When I rebuilt my GTE I did not touch the crank or pistons....I replaced the oil pump, water pump, headgasket, swapped oil pan, and installed arp headstuds....

Best advice I can give when taking anything apart...especially and engine is to get plastic sandwich bags...etc....and mark them for parts.....Also taking pictures of the what bolts are on the water pump and oil pump as there are different length bolts will help when putting it all back together..

Make sure you pay attention to the torque specs in the TSRM....there are some in there that are in-lbs.....not ft-lbs......

Good luck

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

plastic bags is good advice, also laying parts out as you remove them and make notes so you can remember, I like to take pictures as well. the 2jz is a blessing though just don't mix up the valve caps when doing the headstuds or gaskets you will be in a measurement world of pain.
the worst for me was a timing chain job on an old 22re. every bolt is a different length and if you mix them up you get leaks or crack the aluminum housing cover. sometimes a cardboard sharpie drawing of the part with bolt holes in it goes a long way and just stick the bolts through the cardboard that way you know exactly which bolt goes back in where. beats staring at 6 bolts of different length and wondering what to do.

good preparation saves a bunch of time at the end, maybe even the motor also.

irondonkey

i have no issues with having to purchase the studs, and any other accessories needed to do a refresh.

the engine will only be guaranteed by the importer, but it is also a used engine, so my logic was to just do what i needed to it, to ensure longevity of the motor.

good tips, thanks!

also, what's TSRM?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

TSRM stands for Toyota Service Repair Manual ... having both for the SC and Supra (2jzgte ) will make everything easy for you. Ryan and Ali both mentioned good tips .



Managed to replace the valve covers of Red Mamba One through which the oil had been sipping out on the galley and at the same time replaced all my plugs . Did some polishing and honestly am getting tired of polishing . I can't wait to get the black engine bay on Red Mamba Two be done...no polishing at all . Chrome / Polished looks good but too much maintenance .

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Didn't mean to put a built auto tranny for Red Mamba Two since it will be all stock for now. The ones I just sent to be built where for my other SC build and one as spare. But yesterday I found a real good deal on the same ATF Stage 3 auto tranny . Usually if you look for a USDM auto tranny core plus the stage 3 build plus shipping back and forth , you are looking at around $3500 after it is said and done. Someone on SF just wanted out of the Supra game. He sold the Newly built ATF stage 3 auto tranny for $2270 shipped . I can't pass that since it is a savings of $1250. The ATF auto tranny according to Patrick of ATFSpeed is rated to around 850rwhp. So far I had been very satisfied with the ATF Stage 3 Auto tranny I have on Red Mamba One. I haven't pushed it yet beyond 850rwhp though. I am right on those numbers for Red Mamba One and afraid to push it over cause I hate to pay for a rebuild , hahaha, maybe one day when I get back the two tranny and have a spare.

So I guess Red Mamba Two is getting a built tranny so it is ready when I go single and push it to around 700rwhp with stock internals .






AND for those who want to know how to verify an ATF built auto tranny ... they have them numbered just like pictured. The number corresponds to their Invoice Number so they know what had been done on the tranny.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Gerb,

Hold on to that tranny for a while. I have a feeling once my car gets back from Calvo that I will need it in a short period of time. Don't think my boost logic one is going to make it after 200 more horsepower.

Shane

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Shane , how much rwhp is your car making ? The BL built auto tranny can withstand 800-1000rwhp. You don't go to the dragstrip right ? So usable power on the streets is a lot less than a BL built tranny can handle.

I had that tranny originally on my Red Mamba One. Put over 10k miles and pushed it in long deserted roads . The secret of an auto tranny is its cooling system. I use 3 large oil coolers for my auto trannies and I have a temp gauge to monitor the tranny oil temp. I don't go to dragstrips. I build my cars for personal satisfaction and enjoyment on the streets. Of course every one has their own way of enjoying their cars. The drag strip is very cruel for cars . A car breaks faster than when it is used on the street . Usable power is a lot less on the streets.

I replaced my BL tranny because the second gear sprag wasn't billet. That is what tends to break if you don't use the tranny properly or you abuse it. Otherwise the BL tranny is also a robust tranny at least as per my experience and what I have read from other people's experience.

You might want to have a look on this thread on how to take care of an A340 auto tranny for the 2JZ. With proper care, I don't see any reason why your BL tranny will not handle the power of your car. I would have an extra ATF built tranny once the two I sent for rebuilding comes back so I don't mind helping someone have one at a good price.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...built-or-stock

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Gerb,

Everyone I've talked too says reliability ends about 600 on the boost logic tranny. I'm shooting for 700 to 750 when done. My feeling is if it goes it goes. A ATF or possibly a 4l80 would be my next choice.

Shane

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I hear you ! If you are not aiming for more than 850rwhp , an ATF A340 is more cost effective than a 4L80E.

After a couple of talks with Patrick of ATFSpeed with regards what I still need for my 4L80E setup, I will be at around $7500 when it is said and done for the tranny, adapter and torque converter. But , that will support at least 1100rwhp on an auto and will have a 4 gear auto with overdrive. I got other ATF 340 trannies rebuilt since I want to try and push it just on the dyno, a couple of pulls for dyno purposes. I am not gonna run that power anyway on the streets. If it breaks , it breaks . I still have to consider really if i want to risk one ATF 340 on the dyno for that SC which will have the PT6870 turbo. I am pretty sure, I have read it many times that the BL A340 tranny was pushed to over 1Krwhp so I would like to try the ATF A340 .

i have been hearing a rebuilt 4L80E for less than $2000 in other places. Mine is more than double that for the 1100rwhp goal I wanted. I wonder though whether those $2000 tranny built can really handle over 1100rwhp.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Gerb,

I'll wait till you get your 4l80E to see what I'm going to need. The extra gearing would be nice and not having to worry about over drive while boosting. I'm pretty sure when it all comes down to it I'll end up with a ATF on the Proefi128.

From everything I've read this guy is supposed to build one that is almost indestructible. It ain't cheap though. Tunnel going to have to have some serious modifications too and I don't know if it will hook up to my gated shifter unless I get one out of a later car or even if that would work.

http://www.jakesperformance.com/4L80E.html

Shane

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Gerry who are you talking with for a 4l80e? You can have all the billet parts needed to make a 4l80 to withstand up to 2000hp for about 2500, that's just in parts. I have talked to Jakes Performance transmission and he offers a 4l80 for the 2jz with a a340 bell bot sure on cost this way is much easier than using an adapter plate and hammer out the tunnel. not sure if you plan to build it your self or have one build but Jake as been round for years and has built alot of drag racing 4l80e's. If you do a google search on the best place to build a 4l80 Jake's performance will most likely come up.

This is what i got directly from Jake.
Our rebuild kit is $725, a billet input shaft is $350 (we do not use the cheaper shafts available), forward hub is $150. That's $1275 for the kit with billet shaft and hub. It doesn't include an intermediate shaft. Intermediate shaft is usually not needed at 1000 HP but it is $300.
A Full manual shift control box is $200, transbrake is $400, combined they are $500.

We have the ability to set the transmission up for the 2JZ with a customer adapter and bellhousing but we only do that for in house builds.

A 2JZ would also need an aluminum drum due to the RPM. That is $650 for an aluminum drum with 34 element sprag and steel center.

Jake

Just wanted to throw that out there. Building an Auto isn't all that hard so I plan to build mine when parts start to come in for it.