gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Why not ? If you can make them and start getting back even a little to fund expenses on your toy. You know how much it costs to get these harnesses done... just do it right ! Always ask for all the details about the car where the harness be installed so you are not blamed for your work. And if you can install it yourself .. even better , so you know it is done right and get to see first hand if there is a problem in your harness.

irondonkey

do you still have the 4 ton puller?

i've been looking at wheel choices and i feel like i am going to need a very decent pull. i can roll very good fenders, but pulling brad's fenders in the rear is such a paint. def didn't do it the way you did.

i want stance, at the same time it be functional. i'm thinking of fitting 19s, possibly aggressive offset, and running minimum 40 tire.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

yes I do, got it from Harbor Freight , if I remember it right , I paid $110 for . It had always come handy in a lot of work and gets things done easily . The only way you can get a good pull out of that quarter panel is to first cut that inner fender that holds that quarter panel in place. You should be able to get around 50mm out , then get the liner welded back together.

irondonkey

how much did you pull yours? i dont think i'll have to do that since i dont plan on having the setup up as crazy as yours. I will def need your guidance once it comes to the time when i pull the rear's though.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I got around 50mm ..

before the pull... wheels / tires where out more than an inch of the quarter panel fender






After the pull , they were 1" inside the quarter panel fender . I can fit in 12" wheels with 335 or 345 wide tires without any problem as long as I have the right offset. These wheels I have here have +22 offset on the rears

irondonkey

i won't ever need to fit a tire that big that there, for now at least. i'll probably go with a 20-30mm pull.

did you have to cut the inside fender and weld it back?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

you have too if you want a good pull, otherwise it is just that lower lip of the fender you can push out because of that inner liner.

irondonkey

you did the cutting and welding yourself?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

yes... cutting & welding....not the best welds since am learning but it works.

irondonkey

at least the welds are hidden. whatever works though i suppose Lol

Need4Speed

Damn that's a meaty rear set-up! Loving this, keep it up!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

True, meaty tires at the rear looks good. I just sold those 315s and picking up 345s. Looking for a good deal ..

Been doing some work on the Black Pearl and the Red Mamba 2 .. will update thread on work done.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Started the conversion of my Black Mamba and Red Mamba clusters from the 1992 to 1997 clusters. What I want to do is not take away the 92 plugs . I will add the 97 cluster plugs so I can use either an old or 97 cluster. Why am I converting ? I am cheap ..lol .. both cars have clusters whose needles and lightings are bad. I don't want to spend to get them repaired for now. I have 97 parts cars with good clusters with almost similar mileages on the odometer.

As reference , the diagrams below is what you need. I would put up a table for those who can't read diagrams so you know where to connect the wires from the new pigtails to the old pigtails.

left harness is from 97 and the one on the right is pre 97


cluster pigtails (4 for the 97 and 3 for the pre97)



pre 97 cluster wiring




97 cluster wiring

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have a little bit of time before I leave for a friend's place so I started this table .. will complete later . Since I am not taking out the old 92 plugs , I will just solder the wires from the new cluster to the corresponding wire on the old cluster so I can use either gauge clusters. Though you will do less soldering and repinning if you just replace the old 92 plugs and complete wiring with the 97 plugs and wiring, that is, for those who simply just want to use the 97 clusters. Later I will also take pictures of each plug of the new and old clusters so you guys know which is plug A, B and C of the Old Cluster and plug A,B,C and D of the New Cluster.

OLD <-> NEW <-> Notes

A1 <-> B6 <-> P - Combo Meter
A2 <-> B7 <-> R - Combo Meter
A3 <-> B8 <-> N - Combo Meter
A4 <-> A10 <-> D - Combo Meter
A5 <-> B9 <-> 2 - Combo Meter
A7 <-> C9 <-> Seat Belt
A8 <-> C16 <-> BU1-4 Fuel
A10 <-> C11 <-> SRS
A11 <-> C10 <-> SRS
A12 <-> D15 <-> Door Open
A13 <-> C8 <-> Brake
A14 <-> C13 <-> Charging System
A15 <-> C12 <-> Charging System
A16 <-> B12 <-> L - Combo Meter
A17 <-> A9 <-> Illumination System
A18 <-> C4 <-> Overdrive ON/OFF
A19 <-> C14 <-> Oil
A20 <-> C3 <-> Cruise



B1 <-> A1 <-> Trac OFF
b3 <-> a4 <-> AC Control Assembly
B4 <-> B13 <-> ECT - PWR
B5 <-> A5 <-> Trac
B6 <-> B3 <-> High Beam
B7 <-> B2 <-> High Beam
B8 <-> A8 <-> Oil Level
B9 <-> C5 <-> Washer
B11 <-> C6 <-> Rear Light
B15 <-> A7 <-> ABS
B16 <-> B5 <-> LH Turn
B17 <-> B1 <-> RH Turn
B18 <->



C1 <-> D2 <-> Water Temp
C2 <-> D3 <-> TC
C3 <-> D4 <-> RL
C4 <-> D5 <-> RV
C5 <-> D8 <-> RE
C6 <-> Clock power not needed on new
C7 <-> C15 <-> Fuel / BU1-3 Diagram above is wrong..instead of C11 .. C7 is the correct pin.. after having verified actual 92 harness.
C8 <-> D22 <-> Fuel / BU1-10
C9 <-> D9 <-> Tach / Ik1-8
C10 <-> D10 <-> Tacho Ground Under Ashtray
C11 <-> D11 <-> 10amp DOME fuse
C12 <-> D12 <-> Park - Neutral Switch

C13 <-> D13 <-> Speed
C14 <-> C2 <-> Speed
C15 <-> D14 <-> Speed / Tacho / Ground
C16 <-> D16 <-> Clock
C17 <-> D17 <-> Clock
C18 <-> D18 <-> Clock
C19 <-> B10 <-> Trip
C20 <-> B11 <-> Trip

C21 <-> A3 <-> Water Temp / IK1-9
C22 <-> A2 <-> Water Temp / IK2-24
C23 <-> D23 <-> Left Kick Panel Ground

Conblac

Ahh Gerry...the mind of an engineer never stops questing how things work eh? The red beast and all the other toys still looking "tuff"... You still have my pieces set aside I hope?.....