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"Biturbo 2JZ swapped' Soarer Build Thread"

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Old 12-31-11, 09:48 AM   #46
biturbo632
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As mentionned for the swap, I have everything with the ECU.

I watch on internet everything about a 2JZ swap and it don't seem like having a LOT of wiring to do.. I have to do some, right, just about it was an automatic trans swap to manual. But for real.. we will see, I'm just telling about what I've read because that's my first swap! My buddy is a very good mecanic so we are going to get thru this! And that's true, i don't have to lenghten the harness as I'm RHD already

Oh and, DoomLight, the sequential cannot be running parallel, unless you want to go into some mecanical headache complexity.... it's not just an electric wiring thing. This soarer is going to run sequential turbos, exactly like the supra/aristo and exactly like this motor is suppose to run.

I'll get on update soon, the thing is to make it operationnal for mid april! So I don't have time to lose!

Thanks for the comment again guys!
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Last edited by biturbo632; 01-03-12 at 05:34 PM..
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Old 12-31-11, 01:52 PM   #47
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Great thread. Lots of nice pics. The hideaway gauges look great.
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Old 12-31-11, 04:14 PM   #48
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Subscribed.
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Old 12-31-11, 04:53 PM   #49
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I am subscribed also. Again nice gauge work. Kinda dissapointed you didn't build the 1jz. :-)
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Old 12-31-11, 08:15 PM   #50
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you can run the twins in parallel instead of sequential by "modifying" the valve that lets the 2 turbos run sequentially. Basically you just wire open the valve (you can use coat hanger, if you like) to fully open. Its best to do this with the engine out of the car. Your boost controller will still work properly, you just get full boost at a lower rpm. Theyre threads on how to do this. A lot of guys who swap 2jz's into their NA IS300's do this mood. Cheap, easy and effective. By the way, love your gauge setup. You really should sell these for us left hand drive guys
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Old 01-01-12, 12:06 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by RichKid79 View Post
you can run the twins in parallel instead of sequential by "modifying" the valve that lets the 2 turbos run sequentially. Basically you just wire open the valve (you can use coat hanger, if you like) to fully open. Its best to do this with the engine out of the car. Your boost controller will still work properly, you just get full boost at a lower rpm. Theyre threads on how to do this. A lot of guys who swap 2jz's into their NA IS300's do this mood. Cheap, easy and effective. By the way, love your gauge setup. You really should sell these for us left hand drive guys
Nice to know about that turbo setup for the 2jz i didn't know that one! I'm going to check this for sure! I'm always open for easy power gain loll!


For the gauge setup, i'm open to do some! But need a LHD car do made at least one!!
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Old 01-01-12, 12:07 PM   #52
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I am subscribed also. Again nice gauge work. Kinda dissapointed you didn't build the 1jz. :-)
Would cost me too much for this winter buuuuut I don't throw it to the garbage for sure! It's just becoming a long term project that would mabe.... going into a missile drift car? Who knows!
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Old 01-01-12, 03:58 PM   #53
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Seriously if that Gauge panel looks as good in person as the pics. I would pay for a left hand drive version. The SC300/Soarer has no place for gauges really.
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Old 01-03-12, 05:41 PM   #54
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Seriously if that Gauge panel looks as good in person as the pics. I would pay for a left hand drive version. The SC300/Soarer has no place for gauges really.
Totally true! We can put them there, or under a single din aftermaket radio on the centerconsole.

I've got plan to put a EGT gauge beside the temp gauge in the center console behind my double din where it is right now and relocate the EVC-S boost controller that I'm not using lol (not for now but it will!) The main problem is... where do i put the EVC-S....?

I want to have the less thing visible when the key is turn off and that goes BANG when it turn on!

Seriously, for the LHD hideway gauge molding, If someone is willing for the first one, I'll do one for sure!

I'll add more picture of it when I respray it... it was scratch this summer so. When it's done I'll post it and multiple angle.. or maybe making a video?
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Old 01-03-12, 08:05 PM   #55
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Those gages look hot
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Old 02-03-12, 10:22 PM   #56
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Hello back! Here's are some updates!

Sorry for the delays, thing have move in the garage but haven't got the time to upload everything on the computer.. So there you go for what happened in January!



So at first here a picture of the motor when we begin to disassemble it.

Click the image to open in full size.


Here's another shot while working, it's not as clean as I was thinking it was in the shop! Bad lightning! But I'll fix that!

Click the image to open in full size.



Here I've got the pieces I need to get this motor run like new!!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



some refresh (painted) parts installed, and we have removed the aristo water pump for the soarer 1jz's one, with the clutch fan. Paint the water pump and surround piping, so it look brand new! Also new timing belt, termostat and sparkplug installed.

Click the image to open in full size.



I have a little hdr fun for those two pictures, just to show you "how much" space I have to deal with to work on my car! At least, I have a garage but not very large space! It's like working in a closet loll!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by biturbo632; 02-03-12 at 10:51 PM..
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Old 02-03-12, 10:34 PM   #57
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Now we had to remove the 2jz aristo front sump oil pan to install the 1jz rear sump oil pan, that I had refresh.

Click the image to open in full size.

hmm look like new!!

Click the image to open in full size.


Also thing about how I want the valve cover and I chose the Rinkle Black. That's an very nice finish, the picture is not rendering it for you to see it, i'm sorry. When you see the valve cover painted with everything arround, it's going to be sexyy!

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 02-03-12, 10:49 PM   #58
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And finally turn arround and work my way on the engine bay. 1991 to today dirt! Pretty nasty!

Click the image to open in full size.


So the idea was to clean it, because I didn't want to do more, and was thinking I was able to do a nice clean job.

The result on one side. Look not bad on the pic, but in real it's semi metallic paint, semi grey sealer and a little naked metal.... not what I espected!

Click the image to open in full size.


So........ dammit! Let's do the real job! Dissamble everything and sand everything (thanks to my girlfriend on the sanding/wash/tape help!!)

Click the image to open in full size.


Tape and mask everything. I've manage to make my self an "home paintshop" with a fan in the window!

Click the image to open in full size.


And paint everything gloss black. 2 coats of black basecoat, 2 coats of clearcoat!!

Click the image to open in full size.


I just loooooove the finish, serioulsy wasn't feeling like it would have a nice finish because of where I painted it (the garage, dust, LOT OF STUFF, oil and gaz that felt on the floor, etc...) But for an engine bay, DAMN I love it!

Click the image to open in full size.


So tell me what you think! I have some other piece to paint for the engine so my friend can work on the engine while I'm assembling back the engine bay.

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Old 02-04-12, 05:21 AM   #59
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you are a master of patience! good work.
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Old 02-05-12, 09:35 AM   #60
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you are a master of patience! good work.
hehe thanks doomlight! Yes I use to be patient. Now I'm at reassembling the engine bay, because my friend isn't far from finish with the engine (Looking goood!) and we plan to installed it next weekend!
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Old 02-05-12, 09:35 AM
 
 
 
 
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1jz, 2jz, 300, calipers, damage, enclosure, fiberglass, gold, gs, lexus, piston, sc300, soarer, totalled, winter

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