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1992Lexus.. Complete build thread with pictures and links!

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Old 11-09-11, 06:14 PM
  #151  
DoomLight
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dude not even Santa can unwrap that!

bowing down!
Old 11-09-11, 06:33 PM
  #152  
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I wont to keep out the heat, as much as posible.. Thats the point, I only used 50 feet by 2 inch wide roll of DEI heat wrap. LOL Thats only for the manifold, the wastegate dump tube was already done.

The plate I made will not work. I have tried eveything I know to do, but I need a factory piece. Can someone provide me a good picture or detailed schematic of the top piece that holds the shifter? I need this fixed. My shifter is a swan neck already, with a slight bend. I also need the rubber gasket and the top rubber cover, the cover that covers the shifter itself.
Old 11-09-11, 07:26 PM
  #153  
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Oil feed line i always use the front one and cap off the rear one

Oil return line DO NoT run it in between the runners don't ever ever do that , i doesn't matter if you wrap or coat the manifold .
Old 11-09-11, 07:33 PM
  #154  
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I had it ran around it but it looked silly. I guess i need to go back and redo it again. Dang it! Maybe i should pay someone to finish lol thanks for the advice. Take me to oil return school, I am assuming it will get extremely hot. I also had it wrapped as well but it just didnt look good. Is it best to rewrun it around the outside or the inside or wrap it too?
Old 11-09-11, 08:02 PM
  #155  
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run it outside i have seen a car catch on fire from the oil lines, run it on the outside .

it's not all about the look it has to be functional also! the outside of the return line is steel braided but the inside is still rubber so it will melt the rubber on the inside that exhaust housing and the manifold will go up to 1700* or more that engine bay will be on fire lol.
Old 11-09-11, 08:05 PM
  #156  
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I will go back by the CBI company here local and get a new line with a couple of different style/bends of fittings. See what fits and Looks the best. Lol. I appreciate the advice quick..
Old 11-09-11, 08:17 PM
  #157  
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Np sir gl and post some pictures of what you get , it's just a -10 or -12an line with fittings on each end.

You can just make your own line.
Old 11-10-11, 06:28 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by 1992Lexus
I want to keep out the heat, as much as posible.
This is after I said,

Originally Posted by spoolxexo
Never wrap a thin walled stainless manifold.

They insulate the heat and welds can actually turn into molten metal, and break.

Leave it, or ceramic coat it for the most reliability.
Hopefully everything stays together!
Old 11-10-11, 06:45 AM
  #159  
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Did you use locktite "red" on the fly wheel bolts? I've used blue in the past, any particular reason for red?
Old 11-10-11, 07:47 AM
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I did use red, just for more piece of mind for me. The original ones I removed were red and they came out with a little cheater bar, but wasnt that difficult to remove. Plus I used the lock spacer/washer that come with the flywheel as well, even more security. Remember to clean the threads out of the hole before placing the NEW bolts back in.
Old 11-10-11, 09:56 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by 1992Lexus
I did use red, just for more piece of mind for me. The original ones I removed were red and they came out with a little cheater bar, but wasnt that difficult to remove.
That's cause it's 20 years old.

You try taking out 12mm bolts at 150 lb/ft with fresh loctite RED.

You are gunna need a lot more then a little cheater bar, that's for sure.

You did read my warning on thin manifolds and heat wrap right?

Everything else is perfect, keep it up!
Old 11-10-11, 04:52 PM
  #162  
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I did read your opinion on the heat wrap. I do take everyones comment and suggestions seriously on here. Believe me.. Poeple tell me to stop reading so much and do what I think is best, maybe teach the DO's and Dont's or something.. Who knows. The reason I chose to wrap it was because the guy I bought it from had it wrapped, without any problems. I am unknown how long it was wrapped. His down pipe and wastegate tube was also heat wrapped. He said it helped out. Just want to achieve the most power goals and keep the temp downs inside the engine bay. This is I believe a DM manifold, not an Ebay one, no offense to those who have these either.

I am getting antsy on hearing this thing start up and placed back in the car. Hopefully my DM tranny parts will be here tomorrow and i can work on it a little further. I also need to follow up on my front half of the driveshaft. Its been mailed on the 14th of last month through USPS.. I still havent got it yet. More to come.
Old 11-10-11, 06:27 PM
  #163  
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What are you getting your front yoke off of? I can get a mk3 supra 5spd yoke on the cheap. But I hear the carrier bushling is gona need some fabbing. Might have a local machine shop make me a 1 piece. Not sure if that's a good idea or if the vibrations would be a issue.
Old 11-10-11, 07:13 PM
  #164  
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I have paid for a front half MKIII out of a manual. Along with a few other little things. Been waiting almost a month for them to arrive. only time will tell if it arrives. I have emailed held and tried to find it. I gave them the held number also, keeps saying the same thing. How cheap is cheap? I may ask for a refund.

Last edited by 1JZPWRD; 11-11-11 at 09:10 AM.
Old 11-10-11, 08:12 PM
  #165  
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you can swap the carrier bearing from the auto drive shaft onto the mk3 one. no fabbing. just do it right.


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