HiPSI's NA-T / Build Thread - Billet 6265 in store
05-14-14, 06:14 PM
#272
So now apparently CXRacing offers a new design for their manifolds that shifts the turbo placement back towards the firewall more for NA-T setups.
They are $389, or $489 w/ 11 gauge thick tubing.
$389.00
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HDMF
$489.00
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HDMF
Anyone have any insight on install and fitment in the sc300? I would imagine it should fit similar and we have much larger engine bays as well.
They are $389, or $489 w/ 11 gauge thick tubing.
$389.00
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HDMF
$489.00
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=HDMF
Anyone have any insight on install and fitment in the sc300? I would imagine it should fit similar and we have much larger engine bays as well.
Last edited by HiPSI; 05-14-14 at 06:17 PM.
05-14-14, 07:44 PM
#275
After everything I've been through with the car I returned it back to stock and realized that I really just want a simple stock driving reliable car that is boosted. I'm not sure if I can achieve a reliable OEM feeling setup utilizing an aftermarket FFIM plenum. Even though this kit was very thorough and complete the end result wasn't. Part of this could of been from my negative experiences with AEM and the driveability issues. I am afraid to go back to that and now that I have such a great running setup I don't want to complicate things.
I've considered piecing together a FFIM kit utilizing the lesser expensive copy from XSPower:
- XS Power FFIM plenum - $118.00
- RMR 90mm Throttle body w/ tps adapter - $350.00
- Toyota Land Cruiser throttle cable - $61.00
- GTE Power steering adapter fitting - $15.00
- TT Power Steering Reservoir / New - $169.00
- Vacuum Distribution block - $50
- 7mgte IACV / Used - $100.00
- 7mgte iacv weld on flange - $45.00
So that total's roughly $908.00. I could possibly use a used sc400 PS Res, and drill tap holes in the plenum instead of using a dist block. So $739.00 not including odds and ends.
I think I'd rather stick with the OEM intake manifold if possible, just need to figure out how to make more space!
Last edited by HiPSI; 05-14-14 at 07:52 PM.
05-15-14, 04:30 AM
#277
.68 and .81 are externally about the same size , its the internal surface area slightly larger
a good quality ffim and using imo a toyota tps and a solid tune works wonders .. ive been on a ffim with q45tb with greddy tps adapter since oct 2010 , i do also use a gte iacv and i can attest my car runs , starts and drives like a stock car , many can attest to that here in florida .. last time my car was tuned was oct 2010 on aem v1
a good quality ffim and using imo a toyota tps and a solid tune works wonders .. ive been on a ffim with q45tb with greddy tps adapter since oct 2010 , i do also use a gte iacv and i can attest my car runs , starts and drives like a stock car , many can attest to that here in florida .. last time my car was tuned was oct 2010 on aem v1
05-15-14, 07:08 AM
#278
Called Precision directly and had the gentleman measure the differences. He called back to confirm there is appx an 1/8th of an inch difference in overall height of the housing laying flat between the .68 t4 and .81 t4 housing. Since 1/8th of an inch is barely anything I ordered the .81 turbine as many have advised is ultimately the better breathing housing and will allow alot of head room in the future.
I'll report back with how it fits I hope this ends this stupid clearance issue.
I'll report back with how it fits I hope this ends this stupid clearance issue.
05-15-14, 11:46 AM
#279
Called Precision directly and had the gentleman measure the differences. He called back to confirm there is appx an 1/8th of an inch difference in overall height of the housing laying flat between the .68 t4 and .81 t4 housing. Since 1/8th of an inch is barely anything I ordered the .81 turbine as many have advised is ultimately the better breathing housing and will allow alot of head room in the future.
I'll report back with how it fits I hope this ends this stupid clearance issue.
I'll report back with how it fits I hope this ends this stupid clearance issue.
05-15-14, 01:12 PM
#280
Not sure about that manifold and the shape of our shock tower is more rounded but they should really test one out on the SC platform.
I have used a FFIM before on the gte ecu it drove fine, down low was not as snappy as the stock intake, but up top seemed to flow a little better. The ecu was not really having trouble with it (at least not for me). I used a q45 throttle body with toyota tps adapter. If you do go that route def worth the time to install the IACV and connect it, just unwrap and peel back the wires from the GE location, same for tps.
I would just get a q45 throttle body basically only the RMR one you cited would be better but a q45 would save $250, and a 7m gte IACV I don't think I have ever paid more than $50 for one, so that another $50.
I eventually went back to the stock intake cause I like how it drives better on the street in the lower ranges and emissions is much simplified. Also reaching the oil filter is a pain with a FFIM you pretty much should relocate it and I hate doing that. I am a filter on the block kind of guy less things can go wrong.
I think the biggest smaller housing that will fit is the best option because better spooling your setup is it the better it will match being in range of the tune on the gte ecu, and you should still be able to make good numbers even with a .81
I have used a FFIM before on the gte ecu it drove fine, down low was not as snappy as the stock intake, but up top seemed to flow a little better. The ecu was not really having trouble with it (at least not for me). I used a q45 throttle body with toyota tps adapter. If you do go that route def worth the time to install the IACV and connect it, just unwrap and peel back the wires from the GE location, same for tps.
I would just get a q45 throttle body basically only the RMR one you cited would be better but a q45 would save $250, and a 7m gte IACV I don't think I have ever paid more than $50 for one, so that another $50.
I eventually went back to the stock intake cause I like how it drives better on the street in the lower ranges and emissions is much simplified. Also reaching the oil filter is a pain with a FFIM you pretty much should relocate it and I hate doing that. I am a filter on the block kind of guy less things can go wrong.
I think the biggest smaller housing that will fit is the best option because better spooling your setup is it the better it will match being in range of the tune on the gte ecu, and you should still be able to make good numbers even with a .81
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-15-14 at 01:19 PM.
06-24-14, 07:00 AM
#281
Finally got the turbo on and running 
!
As you guys have read previously I ran into the issue with clearance on the ebay turbo manifold and the stock intake manifold. I bought a .68 housing on ebay that solved the clearance issue but it didn't fit the billet exhaust wheel on the PTE 6265 that I have (needs a certain housing for this exhaust wheel). Since there was plenty of clearance with the .68, I chose to go with the .81 housing and ordered one directly through PTE. This resolved the clearance and the .81 will support whatever power level the 6265 can deliver.
The new ebay manifold sits lower and further back than my previous manifold so I need to have the downpipe adjusted. I'm using an ebay turbo blanket to cover the heat from the turbine housing from the coupler on the intake throttle body.
The next issue I ran into with the ebay manifold was the oil drain. I had a 10an SS line setup on the previous manifold that fit perfect. The new manifold design caused this line to lay against the manifold and the 10 AN fitting size caused clearance issues with the compressor housing outlet and coupler.
I figured the best solution was to find a smaller overall outside diameter line and searched for a hardline setup that I could use instead. Stumbled upon one randomly on supraforums from Tres (LexusFTW), he was selling his hardline from his turbo setup on his turbo RSP sc300.
Fitment is still very close to the manifold but since it's a steel hardline I'm not worried about it. The thinner outside diameter hardline allows the compressor housing to move more allowing for better IC piping fitment. The hardline line inside diameter is very large too like 5/8 to 3/4 and exits about 7-8 inches from the block drain fitting where I used a rubber hose to connect the two. The last turbo setup I had, I was having oil return back up issues and it would leak oil into the downpipe so hopefully this larger hardline setup will flow better without restriction.
Mounting the huge supra ETS FMIC was easy as I had already designed the fit and install prior so it was a simple bolt up process.
I purchased another universal 2.5" IC piping kit to give me more bends to play with. I wanted the flow of the piping to hug the cruise control close and give enough space for a 4" intake pipe.
The 4runner distributor cap was a joke, didn't help fitment really at all. There is no way to clear a 4" intake pipe with a distributor cap there on a ebay 2jzge turbo manifold. I will be converting it to the VVTi coils next and get a bov welded on there.
The car boosts great I took it really easy initially and then rolled into boost a few times to see how it would do. Well the one tire fire is a real thing now I could feel the rear end scootin away and the wastegate dump pipe was super loud! The stock spring on the 46mm is about 6-8psi right now so it's not much but man it feels good! Fuel is rich it stayed within the 10.1-10.2 range in boost so I'm happy it's compensating properly. Can't wait to get everything buttoned up 100% and start turning it up!
! As you guys have read previously I ran into the issue with clearance on the ebay turbo manifold and the stock intake manifold. I bought a .68 housing on ebay that solved the clearance issue but it didn't fit the billet exhaust wheel on the PTE 6265 that I have (needs a certain housing for this exhaust wheel). Since there was plenty of clearance with the .68, I chose to go with the .81 housing and ordered one directly through PTE. This resolved the clearance and the .81 will support whatever power level the 6265 can deliver.
The new ebay manifold sits lower and further back than my previous manifold so I need to have the downpipe adjusted. I'm using an ebay turbo blanket to cover the heat from the turbine housing from the coupler on the intake throttle body.
The next issue I ran into with the ebay manifold was the oil drain. I had a 10an SS line setup on the previous manifold that fit perfect. The new manifold design caused this line to lay against the manifold and the 10 AN fitting size caused clearance issues with the compressor housing outlet and coupler.
I figured the best solution was to find a smaller overall outside diameter line and searched for a hardline setup that I could use instead. Stumbled upon one randomly on supraforums from Tres (LexusFTW), he was selling his hardline from his turbo setup on his turbo RSP sc300.
Fitment is still very close to the manifold but since it's a steel hardline I'm not worried about it. The thinner outside diameter hardline allows the compressor housing to move more allowing for better IC piping fitment. The hardline line inside diameter is very large too like 5/8 to 3/4 and exits about 7-8 inches from the block drain fitting where I used a rubber hose to connect the two. The last turbo setup I had, I was having oil return back up issues and it would leak oil into the downpipe so hopefully this larger hardline setup will flow better without restriction.
Mounting the huge supra ETS FMIC was easy as I had already designed the fit and install prior so it was a simple bolt up process.
I purchased another universal 2.5" IC piping kit to give me more bends to play with. I wanted the flow of the piping to hug the cruise control close and give enough space for a 4" intake pipe.
The 4runner distributor cap was a joke, didn't help fitment really at all. There is no way to clear a 4" intake pipe with a distributor cap there on a ebay 2jzge turbo manifold. I will be converting it to the VVTi coils next and get a bov welded on there.
The car boosts great I took it really easy initially and then rolled into boost a few times to see how it would do. Well the one tire fire is a real thing now I could feel the rear end scootin away and the wastegate dump pipe was super loud! The stock spring on the 46mm is about 6-8psi right now so it's not much but man it feels good! Fuel is rich it stayed within the 10.1-10.2 range in boost so I'm happy it's compensating properly. Can't wait to get everything buttoned up 100% and start turning it up!
06-24-14, 09:51 AM
#282
looks great, glad to hear its running so well and you got the turbo fitted and everything.
The distributor is a joke, its best to just do the vvti coils and be done with that mess, I am also not a fan of the 4runner distributor cap, it gives you just a touch more of space, but all the wiring is all over the place and I had spark issues with it.
Nice bends on the IC piping the 2nd kit looks like it worked.
The distributor is a joke, its best to just do the vvti coils and be done with that mess, I am also not a fan of the 4runner distributor cap, it gives you just a touch more of space, but all the wiring is all over the place and I had spark issues with it.
Nice bends on the IC piping the 2nd kit looks like it worked.
07-08-14, 07:18 PM
#284
Alright guys need some troubleshooting help.
Decided to switch the car over to VVTi coils and ds62 igniter this week. During this process I also wired in my Apexi Safc NEO to compensate for the newly installed 550cc injectors. The NEO worked great and I was able to pull 22% out of the air map which made the idle A/F 14.6-14.8.
I decided to test out the neo and hadn't soldered everything together and started it as is. Car started and ran great and decided to pull the intake manifold and start the COP install. Somewhere during the process I think I shorted the PIN 31 wire and the car refused to start and the NEO all the sudden wouldn't power on.
Found that I had popped the EFI 30amp fuse in the engine bay, no biggie went to advance and popped a new one in. Car fired up first start after that and the NEO works again awesome resolved that issue.
Now what's happening is when I start the car the idle shoots up and starts surging repetitively like its got a large vacuum leak and the ECU is hunting to find target idle. The RPMs shoot to 2500 or so and drop down and up , down and up like the ecu doesn't know what to do. There is this screeching squeeling loud noise that is coming out of the engine bay and it sounds like it's coming from the intake or possibly the IACV valve. What are the symptoms of a bad IACV? Is there anyway to test it? I assume it's possible I could of fried it in the process of my ignorance but it's random. Are there other fuses that could be related that are popped that I've missed? Any input or help with similar symptoms would be appreciated!
Decided to switch the car over to VVTi coils and ds62 igniter this week. During this process I also wired in my Apexi Safc NEO to compensate for the newly installed 550cc injectors. The NEO worked great and I was able to pull 22% out of the air map which made the idle A/F 14.6-14.8.
I decided to test out the neo and hadn't soldered everything together and started it as is. Car started and ran great and decided to pull the intake manifold and start the COP install. Somewhere during the process I think I shorted the PIN 31 wire and the car refused to start and the NEO all the sudden wouldn't power on.
Found that I had popped the EFI 30amp fuse in the engine bay, no biggie went to advance and popped a new one in. Car fired up first start after that and the NEO works again awesome resolved that issue.
Now what's happening is when I start the car the idle shoots up and starts surging repetitively like its got a large vacuum leak and the ECU is hunting to find target idle. The RPMs shoot to 2500 or so and drop down and up , down and up like the ecu doesn't know what to do. There is this screeching squeeling loud noise that is coming out of the engine bay and it sounds like it's coming from the intake or possibly the IACV valve. What are the symptoms of a bad IACV? Is there anyway to test it? I assume it's possible I could of fried it in the process of my ignorance but it's random. Are there other fuses that could be related that are popped that I've missed? Any input or help with similar symptoms would be appreciated!