HiPSI's NA-T / Build Thread - Billet 6265 in store
02-07-12, 08:57 AM
#151
Looks awesome! That cat-back is going to keep the car quiet regardless of how open it is in front of it. I found out the same thing after I gutted the cat on my old midpipe. The car didn't get any louder, just more smelly. I put a catted midpipe back on it and plan to delete the mufflers instead 
02-07-12, 09:17 AM
#152
Honestly it fit almost near perfect and it was relatively cheap like $330 shipped for the downpipe and midpipe. The only downside is the vband flanges and clamps feels cheap to me but it doesn't leak so game on!
I got it off ebay from a user cooper813:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-98-Supra-...256718&vxp=mtr
I got it off ebay from a user cooper813:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-98-Supra-...256718&vxp=mtr
02-07-12, 12:39 PM
#153
Looks awesome! That cat-back is going to keep the car quiet regardless of how open it is in front of it. I found out the same thing after I gutted the cat on my old midpipe. The car didn't get any louder, just more smelly. I put a catted midpipe back on it and plan to delete the mufflers instead
02-07-12, 02:53 PM
#154
Very true. I have mixed feelings about quiet. I like quiet sometimes when I am just cruising, but then I miss the nasty, raspy, loud hot rod sound when I am playing. I looked into a cutout as well but could not find one that was guaranteed not to leak and sound like crap.
Another option I was toying with is putting a long glasspack muffler in the midpipe, and straight tailpipes out the back. Then I could use a cutout to divert exhaust around the muffler but back into and through the tailpipes. Then if the cutout leaks a little, you won't really notice it. I would use a boost actuated cutout and have it open at around 1psi.
Expensive and a PITA to do, but it would be pretty gnarly at WOT, and tame as can be just cruising.
Another option I was toying with is putting a long glasspack muffler in the midpipe, and straight tailpipes out the back. Then I could use a cutout to divert exhaust around the muffler but back into and through the tailpipes. Then if the cutout leaks a little, you won't really notice it. I would use a boost actuated cutout and have it open at around 1psi.
Expensive and a PITA to do, but it would be pretty gnarly at WOT, and tame as can be just cruising.
02-07-12, 03:32 PM
#155
Very true. I have mixed feelings about quiet. I like quiet sometimes when I am just cruising, but then I miss the nasty, raspy, loud hot rod sound when I am playing. I looked into a cutout as well but could not find one that was guaranteed not to leak and sound like crap.
Another option I was toying with is putting a long glasspack muffler in the midpipe, and straight tailpipes out the back. Then I could use a cutout to divert exhaust around the muffler but back into and through the tailpipes. Then if the cutout leaks a little, you won't really notice it. I would use a boost actuated cutout and have it open at around 1psi.
Expensive and a PITA to do, but it would be pretty gnarly at WOT, and tame as can be just cruising.
Another option I was toying with is putting a long glasspack muffler in the midpipe, and straight tailpipes out the back. Then I could use a cutout to divert exhaust around the muffler but back into and through the tailpipes. Then if the cutout leaks a little, you won't really notice it. I would use a boost actuated cutout and have it open at around 1psi.
Expensive and a PITA to do, but it would be pretty gnarly at WOT, and tame as can be just cruising.
The cutout will allow me to go wide open and it should flow as good as it gets. The only problem is clearance, I'll have to take my time with the install and make sure it doesn't hang low.
02-24-12, 09:23 AM
#158
Living in Virginia and having multiple modded cars I've come to realize that if I'm going to enjoy the car and not be harrassed by police I need to keep the car quieter. I was constantly pulled over in my DSM but the car looked like a rolling ticket haha. Initially I wanted to do a full 4" inch system without a muffler and then run an apexi ECV (exhaust control valve) inline the exhaust which is a manual cable driven plate and I could toggle the noise. I realized that rolling around with a 4" straight pipe would sound ridiculous and went the fujitsubo catback route to make it look better and retain the stealthyness sound.
The cutout will allow me to go wide open and it should flow as good as it gets. The only problem is clearance, I'll have to take my time with the install and make sure it doesn't hang low.
The cutout will allow me to go wide open and it should flow as good as it gets. The only problem is clearance, I'll have to take my time with the install and make sure it doesn't hang low.
04-23-12, 10:39 AM
#161
HiPSI - hello.
You did a very nice exhaust system!
Bravo!
I have the SC 300-97, and the same components: Fujitsubo Legalis R for the Soarer JZZ30 and 4 " Down pipe Mid pipe V-band Single Turbo Supra 93-98.
Soon I'll be doing the same exhaust system for the swap 2JZ GTE VVT-I Touota Aristo JZS161-2001.
Tell me - where can I buy Reducer flange exhaust 4 "x 3" as in this photo:
Thank you for your attention.
Sincerely, Vadim.
Undercarriage:
Downpipe connection to midpipe:
Reducer flange to fujitsubo catback:
[/QUOTE]
You did a very nice exhaust system!
Bravo!
I have the SC 300-97, and the same components: Fujitsubo Legalis R for the Soarer JZZ30 and 4 " Down pipe Mid pipe V-band Single Turbo Supra 93-98.
Soon I'll be doing the same exhaust system for the swap 2JZ GTE VVT-I Touota Aristo JZS161-2001.
Tell me - where can I buy Reducer flange exhaust 4 "x 3" as in this photo:
Thank you for your attention.
Sincerely, Vadim.
Undercarriage:
Downpipe connection to midpipe:
Reducer flange to fujitsubo catback:
[/QUOTE]
04-23-12, 12:08 PM
#162
I had to order from a UK ebay vendor, it's a perfect stainless steel reducer and he makes different sizes depending on what your reducing to. The fujitubo catback is slightly larger than 2.5" but it still bolts up fine with a vibrant 2 bolt stainless steel flange. I just had a local machine shop tig weld the reducer onto the flange for me and then took the car to an exhaust shop and they fitted everything together for me.
Here's an auction I found, he ships to the US if you contact him. I searched for stainless steel reducer cone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Redu...-/320570974404
Here's an auction I found, he ships to the US if you contact him. I searched for stainless steel reducer cone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Redu...-/320570974404
04-25-12, 08:21 AM
#163
gte & na-t
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Andrew,
When i was doing my swap i ran into a DS issue, Snap performance DS used to be 450 +shipping but now he wanted 900 shipped for it.
I didn't bother trying DM.
I know Toyota used the same flange on all the trucks Lexus /Toyota so i went ahead and bought a land Cruiser driveshaft $350 then took it to a local shop that build DS for race car and HD application.
I gave them the land cruiser DS with my SC300 rear half, I wanted to use the stock diff donut bushing so i can avoid vibration and stuff. plus that billet adapter is about $165.
I had them retube the land cruiser DS , Weld the SC3 rear diff flange on it ! so from flange to flange it was 51.5" You can check my thread to confirm it.
They replace the U joint with a HD one , So the complete Ds total cost was ~$650.
That's the cheapest way i have found to get a driveshaft ..if you need the Info i can text you the info of the Shop.
When i was doing my swap i ran into a DS issue, Snap performance DS used to be 450 +shipping but now he wanted 900 shipped for it.
I didn't bother trying DM.
I know Toyota used the same flange on all the trucks Lexus /Toyota so i went ahead and bought a land Cruiser driveshaft $350 then took it to a local shop that build DS for race car and HD application.
I gave them the land cruiser DS with my SC300 rear half, I wanted to use the stock diff donut bushing so i can avoid vibration and stuff. plus that billet adapter is about $165.
I had them retube the land cruiser DS , Weld the SC3 rear diff flange on it ! so from flange to flange it was 51.5" You can check my thread to confirm it.
They replace the U joint with a HD one , So the complete Ds total cost was ~$650.
That's the cheapest way i have found to get a driveshaft ..if you need the Info i can text you the info of the Shop.
04-25-12, 10:48 AM
#164
I had to order from a UK ebay vendor, it's a perfect stainless steel reducer and he makes different sizes depending on what your reducing to. The fujitubo catback is slightly larger than 2.5" but it still bolts up fine with a vibrant 2 bolt stainless steel flange. I just had a local machine shop tig weld the reducer onto the flange for me and then took the car to an exhaust shop and they fitted everything together for me.
Here's an auction I found, he ships to the US if you contact him. I searched for stainless steel reducer cone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Redu...-/320570974404
Here's an auction I found, he ships to the US if you contact him. I searched for stainless steel reducer cone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Redu...-/320570974404
Thanks for the info. I ordered a UK ebay vendor cone 4 "x 3".
Please show me photos of the connection flange Down pipe turbine.
Thank you for your attention.
Sincerely, Vadim.
04-25-12, 12:59 PM
#165
Andrew,
When i was doing my swap i ran into a DS issue, Snap performance DS used to be 450 +shipping but now he wanted 900 shipped for it.
I didn't bother trying DM.
I know Toyota used the same flange on all the trucks Lexus /Toyota so i went ahead and bought a land Cruiser driveshaft $350 then took it to a local shop that build DS for race car and HD application.
I gave them the land cruiser DS with my SC300 rear half, I wanted to use the stock diff donut bushing so i can avoid vibration and stuff. plus that billet adapter is about $165.
I had them retube the land cruiser DS , Weld the SC3 rear diff flange on it ! so from flange to flange it was 51.5" You can check my thread to confirm it.
They replace the U joint with a HD one , So the complete Ds total cost was ~$650.
That's the cheapest way i have found to get a driveshaft ..if you need the Info i can text you the info of the Shop.
When i was doing my swap i ran into a DS issue, Snap performance DS used to be 450 +shipping but now he wanted 900 shipped for it.
I didn't bother trying DM.
I know Toyota used the same flange on all the trucks Lexus /Toyota so i went ahead and bought a land Cruiser driveshaft $350 then took it to a local shop that build DS for race car and HD application.
I gave them the land cruiser DS with my SC300 rear half, I wanted to use the stock diff donut bushing so i can avoid vibration and stuff. plus that billet adapter is about $165.
I had them retube the land cruiser DS , Weld the SC3 rear diff flange on it ! so from flange to flange it was 51.5" You can check my thread to confirm it.
They replace the U joint with a HD one , So the complete Ds total cost was ~$650.
That's the cheapest way i have found to get a driveshaft ..if you need the Info i can text you the info of the Shop.
BTW, which exact truck driveshaft am I looking for? Is it the 4x4 model or 4x2 model? Also what years should I search for on car-parts.com? They give the option for a front driveshaft, and an option for a rear driveshaft so I am not sure exactly what I need. I was finding driveshafts for as little as $75.00 on there from a 2003 gx470.