The New Hotness
11-09-13, 07:35 AM
#166
Well, I'm putting her on jacks for the winter. Giving me sometime to actually focus on some projects
-LS400 BBK
-Battleversion Rear Toe Links
-Battleversion Rear Traction Bar
-New Tires
-Possibly new wheels...looking for something wider and possibly bigger.
-Fix Passenger side Window Regulator
-Repair/Replace interior pieces
Needless to say...it's going to be a busy winter.
12-13-13, 02:33 PM
#171
So I just have to get my rotors turned and get some washers to fit the SC bolts back in. Also hopefully getting my hands on a dremel saw so I can trim back the dust shield. It bends easy enough but I'm still scared that it'll rub against the back side of the rotor.
12-13-13, 04:06 PM
#173
But you don't need that to pass 300rwhp . Your stock ecu and injectors and turbos are more than capable.. You need to look at boosting safely up to around 15-17psi with those stock twins and go between 300-350 .
Not worth spending money on the AEM F/.IC and tuning FOR NOW if you just want to pass the 300 barrier . Just need to bypass the boost cut and maybe go 3" downpipe/midpipe/exhaust which you will need later anyway . When you are ready for more like you have a single turbo and bigger injectors then if you want the AEM FIC .. that's the time to go for it.
12-13-13, 05:49 PM
#174
I thought it was you who bought that AEM F/IC sold on the adds for $200 shipped. That was a good buy.
But you don't need that to pass 300rwhp . Your stock ecu and injectors and turbos are more than capable.. You need to look at boosting safely up to around 15-17psi with those stock twins and go between 300-350 .
Not worth spending money on the AEM F/.IC and tuning FOR NOW if you just want to pass the 300 barrier . Just need to bypass the boost cut and maybe go 3" downpipe/midpipe/exhaust which you will need later anyway . When you are ready for more like you have a single turbo and bigger injectors then if you want the AEM FIC .. that's the time to go for it.
But you don't need that to pass 300rwhp . Your stock ecu and injectors and turbos are more than capable.. You need to look at boosting safely up to around 15-17psi with those stock twins and go between 300-350 .
Not worth spending money on the AEM F/.IC and tuning FOR NOW if you just want to pass the 300 barrier . Just need to bypass the boost cut and maybe go 3" downpipe/midpipe/exhaust which you will need later anyway . When you are ready for more like you have a single turbo and bigger injectors then if you want the AEM FIC .. that's the time to go for it.
I already have the 3" exhaust already there with 550cc injectors as it stands. And a box which has the Fuel/Boost Cut in it, I just haven't spend the time or money to get it wired in.
But thanks to you and Mark, I got a solid list of parts along with all the research to go with it.
12-13-13, 06:53 PM
#175
Couldn't have said it any better gerrb!
As for the OP looks like you have more then enough time to get those add on's wired inorder to bump up boost... Lol
What exactly is your goal? I've learned that it's better to buy parts that meet your ending goal, then to buy parts that just get you by for the moment.
As for the OP looks like you have more then enough time to get those add on's wired inorder to bump up boost... Lol
What exactly is your goal? I've learned that it's better to buy parts that meet your ending goal, then to buy parts that just get you by for the moment.
Last edited by BAD954BOI; 12-13-13 at 06:58 PM.
12-16-13, 05:49 AM
#177
JB - are you saying , you got the MKIV 550cc low impedance injectors installed right now ? Are you using the USDM ecu ? IF you already have the 3" exhaust and are wired with the USDM ecu , then all you need is a single turbo / controller to crank up that boost since the twins won't last long above the 18psi for long. Going up to 18-21psi on a single can achieve your goal of 450-500rwhp on that ECU and MKIV 550cc injectors. You don't even need an aftermarket ECU like AEM F/IC. That saves you a lot of money on the ECU and tuning.
Staying with the OEM ECU with that power goal for me is a lot better since it will be more reliable. The factory spent lots of money on R&D on that ECU so you won't have any problems on cold starts , on any altitude or whatever. Aftermarket ECUs are only as good as how the tuning was done. Then when you change some stuff in your setup , again you need to be retuned... endless expenditures. I believe with your powergoal , for a street car of 450-500rwhp , you might as well stay with the USDM ECU since you already have it , have a more reliable setup and most of all saves tons of money.
Anyone correct me if I am wrong... please !
Staying with the OEM ECU with that power goal for me is a lot better since it will be more reliable. The factory spent lots of money on R&D on that ECU so you won't have any problems on cold starts , on any altitude or whatever. Aftermarket ECUs are only as good as how the tuning was done. Then when you change some stuff in your setup , again you need to be retuned... endless expenditures. I believe with your powergoal , for a street car of 450-500rwhp , you might as well stay with the USDM ECU since you already have it , have a more reliable setup and most of all saves tons of money.
Anyone correct me if I am wrong... please !
12-17-13, 04:50 AM
#179
They either were pulling your legs when they said they installed 550cc injectors for you and are on a USDM TT ECU .
OR
You have a VPC / Mapecu , piggy back or something already which they didn't tell you.
When I saw your engine bay in person the time we met at Kurtis place and through your engine bay pictures , I didn't see a MAF for which the USDM TT ecu utilizes. To take away that MAF then you got VPC or Mapecu or something to use pure MAP.
Do this, assuming they are OEM TT injectors , check what color are the injectors on the plug / socket area of each injector.... blue or gray or what ? From there alone we will have an idea... OEM 440cc injectors have different colors from the OEM 550cc.
EDIT : Also lift your carpet on the front passenger side floorboard . Get the part number written on the ECU. It starts with 89???-????? (5 digits - 5 digits and first two digits are 89) . That will easily tell us if you are on a USDM ECU.
Last edited by gerrb; 12-17-13 at 05:51 AM.
02-10-14, 09:25 AM
#180
After dealing with a busted caliper I bought from a private seller and dealing with AutoZone I finally got around to installing the LS400 BBK swap without much trouble. Rather straight forward really...
Anyway...here's the business.
Anyway...here's the business.
Last edited by DuWerke; 02-11-14 at 10:37 AM.
