Fidel Cashflo's 1996 LS400 drift car build
07-19-11, 09:57 PM
#47
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LS400 hints like what kinda things swap over for cheap then buying the $1800 coil over kit from monsterhorsepower.com also ive read that it only take 6 wires to run the 1UZ is this true?
turbos hmm only blew up one and not know how it was fine when i parked it then i fixed the crank case vent and went for a drive and turbo lost it weird, the i got a GT28R and that some how cause me to break ring lands on number three piston, replaced it, spun it the next time out FML so im parting out the car and i wannt go with a LS400 and seeing yours inspires me
turbos hmm only blew up one and not know how it was fine when i parked it then i fixed the crank case vent and went for a drive and turbo lost it weird, the i got a GT28R and that some how cause me to break ring lands on number three piston, replaced it, spun it the next time out FML so im parting out the car and i wannt go with a LS400 and seeing yours inspires me
07-19-11, 10:03 PM
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I finally got my gas mig welder working properly, so yeah, started shaving the trunk emblem holes. I really haven’t been motivated to work on the car since its close to 100 degrees out every day, and recently my garage has become infested with black/brown widow spiders… Killed 7 a couple days ago, just one days worth…
Also after getting the welder working me and a buddy fabbed up this second bracket so I can unbolt the bracket from the Chassis and the ebrake from the bracket. I’m looking forward to grabbing it in front of ***-holes on the highway. Oh yeah and while sliding and what not too.
I ditched these dumb 245/40/18’s and picked up a pair of 225/40/18 Nankang NS-1’s, these tires stretch really nicely. I got a deal on 3 Tenzo R 18x8 wheels with new rubber on them. $60 for 3 wheels with good rubber whuhhhh? So I just put the tires on the battles, may sell the Tenzo’s or keep em around for some decent spares.
I took some pictures of the guttage.
I’m planning on gutting the door skin on the rear doors to get the weight out of them, probably remove the regulators and weld tabs to hold the glass up. I also need to relocate the pre-amp under the passenger seat, I need to find somewhere to put that. I also need to relocate the rear door speakers, unless I just make brackets for them to run them on the rear doors after gutting em, Idk yet.
I also need to figure out what I’m doing for front door panels, probably sheet aluminum riveted on and the relocate window switches to a fuse/switch board.
SOON to be gutted:
I need to make a heel up plate, since the LS has the frame rails running through its interior. These cars are bulletproof!
Probably going to get a piece of 16ga steel and gusset it and then figure out how to mount it in the car, maybe weld it in? I don’t know yet. Something like this maybe. I’ll see what I have lying around before I go out and spend money to do it.
Also after getting the welder working me and a buddy fabbed up this second bracket so I can unbolt the bracket from the Chassis and the ebrake from the bracket. I’m looking forward to grabbing it in front of ***-holes on the highway. Oh yeah and while sliding and what not too.
I ditched these dumb 245/40/18’s and picked up a pair of 225/40/18 Nankang NS-1’s, these tires stretch really nicely. I got a deal on 3 Tenzo R 18x8 wheels with new rubber on them. $60 for 3 wheels with good rubber whuhhhh? So I just put the tires on the battles, may sell the Tenzo’s or keep em around for some decent spares.
I took some pictures of the guttage.
I’m planning on gutting the door skin on the rear doors to get the weight out of them, probably remove the regulators and weld tabs to hold the glass up. I also need to relocate the pre-amp under the passenger seat, I need to find somewhere to put that. I also need to relocate the rear door speakers, unless I just make brackets for them to run them on the rear doors after gutting em, Idk yet.
I also need to figure out what I’m doing for front door panels, probably sheet aluminum riveted on and the relocate window switches to a fuse/switch board.
SOON to be gutted:
I need to make a heel up plate, since the LS has the frame rails running through its interior. These cars are bulletproof!
Probably going to get a piece of 16ga steel and gusset it and then figure out how to mount it in the car, maybe weld it in? I don’t know yet. Something like this maybe. I’ll see what I have lying around before I go out and spend money to do it.
Last edited by Cashflo; 12-28-11 at 11:40 AM.
07-22-11, 04:15 PM
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Ok, well after a little research I found this:
http://www.lextreme.com/1jzgtel.htm
217kg = 478lbs...
Thats without turbo's, so lets say another 40lbs for turbos?
Plus weight of clutch probably 20-25lbs.
R154 is said to weight 46kg dry. So 101lbs.
http://www.turbosupr...hnical/R154.htm
1UZ+R154 weight = 486lbs
http://forums.hybrid...-weights-table/
So subtract the 101lbs for the R154, 385lbs.
However the A341 transmission is said to weigh over 150lbs dry without torque converter.
Plus whatever a torque converter weighs, 20-30lbs?
I'd say:
1UZ-FE with A341 (560ish lbs)
1JZ-GTE with R154 (640ish lbs)
So less than a 100lb difference, no?
http://www.lextreme.com/1jzgtel.htm
217kg = 478lbs...
Thats without turbo's, so lets say another 40lbs for turbos?
Plus weight of clutch probably 20-25lbs.
R154 is said to weight 46kg dry. So 101lbs.
http://www.turbosupr...hnical/R154.htm
1UZ+R154 weight = 486lbs
http://forums.hybrid...-weights-table/
So subtract the 101lbs for the R154, 385lbs.
However the A341 transmission is said to weigh over 150lbs dry without torque converter.
Plus whatever a torque converter weighs, 20-30lbs?
I'd say:
1UZ-FE with A341 (560ish lbs)
1JZ-GTE with R154 (640ish lbs)
So less than a 100lb difference, no?
07-23-11, 01:41 PM
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Still a very small difference in weight between the two engines. I think after its all said and done, the 1JZ (full swap inluding: aluminum driveshaft, exhaust, FMIC, R154/Clutch, piping, blah blah) will be lighter than all of the OEM UZ stuff (Auto Trans, OEM driveshaft, electronic shifter, exhaust).
08-08-11, 04:51 PM
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Well I picked up my motor from JDM Orlando, as I said in my last post. I got home and realized… Wait a second, I don’t have an igniter or Map Sensor.
I gave them a call and they told me they didn’t have any map sensors, but they did have an igniter, so they shipped me one. I found a map sensor for $50 locally (JDM 2JZ-GTE ). I just found a soarer 4 plug ECU for $50 shipped, picked that up!
I borrowed my buddies engine stand so I can do all of the maintenance on the engine before it goes in.
I’m replacing:
-2JZ Water Pump/Pulley
-2JZ Valve cover gaskets
-2JZ Front/Rear Main seals
-2JZ Serpentine belt
-Timing Belt
-Oil pan seals (RTV)
First things first… GTFO auto trans!
Went to my buddy Ray’s shop and picked up this beast! Huge front mount, over 40 inches from end tank to endtank! Core is 24x 11x3. Should be fine for my power goal.
I decided I was going to try to cut out the front bumper support to fit the front mount, this was no easy task lol
I ended up getting an OEM Toyota flywheel for $220 locally! I also got some flywheel bolts for $30 picked up locally, brand new OEM Toyota as well!
I picked up an ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate from a buddy of mine. Really nice pressure plate. Should be perfect for my power goal as well!
Called up Summit Racing, ordered a Cherry Bomb 3” turbo muffler 87719. These things sound great on turbo cars. A buddy has one his SR20 S13, and it sounds really nice. These are really quiet!!!
I took off the ac fittings and noticed that they are the same on the 1UZ and 1JZ! So no modification of the AC lines needed. Also I don’t think it will be a problem making the powersteering high pressure line. I just need to find a power steering reservoir.
I got a pair of solid aluminum motor mounts for $35 shipped, hopefully these things get the job done.
Awe… Brothers.
Only thing left to buy now is:
1JZ R154 Bellhousing
Driveshaft (Local)
Clutch pedal/master/slave line
Fluids/seals/gaskets (Local)
I gave them a call and they told me they didn’t have any map sensors, but they did have an igniter, so they shipped me one. I found a map sensor for $50 locally (JDM 2JZ-GTE ). I just found a soarer 4 plug ECU for $50 shipped, picked that up!
I borrowed my buddies engine stand so I can do all of the maintenance on the engine before it goes in.
I’m replacing:
-2JZ Water Pump/Pulley
-2JZ Valve cover gaskets
-2JZ Front/Rear Main seals
-2JZ Serpentine belt
-Timing Belt
-Oil pan seals (RTV)
First things first… GTFO auto trans!
Went to my buddy Ray’s shop and picked up this beast! Huge front mount, over 40 inches from end tank to endtank! Core is 24x 11x3. Should be fine for my power goal.
I decided I was going to try to cut out the front bumper support to fit the front mount, this was no easy task lol
I ended up getting an OEM Toyota flywheel for $220 locally! I also got some flywheel bolts for $30 picked up locally, brand new OEM Toyota as well!
I picked up an ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate from a buddy of mine. Really nice pressure plate. Should be perfect for my power goal as well!
Called up Summit Racing, ordered a Cherry Bomb 3” turbo muffler 87719. These things sound great on turbo cars. A buddy has one his SR20 S13, and it sounds really nice. These are really quiet!!!
I took off the ac fittings and noticed that they are the same on the 1UZ and 1JZ! So no modification of the AC lines needed. Also I don’t think it will be a problem making the powersteering high pressure line. I just need to find a power steering reservoir.
I got a pair of solid aluminum motor mounts for $35 shipped, hopefully these things get the job done.
Awe… Brothers.
Only thing left to buy now is:
1JZ R154 Bellhousing
Driveshaft (Local)
Clutch pedal/master/slave line
Fluids/seals/gaskets (Local)
08-08-11, 09:32 PM
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Yeah I slid it around locally a whole bunch, no events or anything like that. Just a bunch of street sliding. It was really fun to drive, got tired of that damn misfire and not being able to drive it so I decided to just take it off the road and start the swap.
08-09-11, 03:31 PM
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I never got the diff welded. I just rode out open diff, auto, and the coilovers my buddy made. It felt great, to get it out in the dry, you have to enter with some speed and weight transfer. I was even using the stock parking brake as an ebrake, I disabled the release, so you could just push it and it would spring back, lol.
