LeeSC300's OEM BUILD
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Booyah.
List of things to do to make this my DD fun machine:
5spd swap (w58)
-from supra mk4 '96+, with driveshaft
-other swap necessities
-master/slave cylinder
-flywheel/clutch
-'95 5spd ECU
-IDK why, but i have a stage 3 clutch (I'll probably just use the pressure plate. NEED to know if this is a bad idea)
-pedals assembled by hand..... (that spring was a B1-tch)
-new throw-out bearing
-new fork pivot
-delrin shift ****...booyah
-Just need the full clutch line, and fluids and I think I'm set.
Struts/Springs:
KYB Gr2's with tanabe nf210's or eibachs
tokico blues with " "
New rotors and pads all around.
...why upgrade to BBK if I'm not anything more than just N/A (seems like a waste of $$ to me)
-non of this organic BS, ceramic all around complete with stainless rotors.
-possibly braided lines, but we'll see how much $$$ is left...
AC delete
-It's noisy it's old, I dont use AC and I just roll the windows down anyway...
- Should free up at least ONE pony
NEW TIRES
-Since I purchased the car in May of '10 I've put about 22K on the car already. Yeah, that's right, 22k. I commute about 60miles/day(total) for work, and I have family >=2hrs away in any direction (thats about 100-120 miles depending on traffic)
-I have rims for the summer and stockies for the winter, so tirerack, here I come.
THE CATCH:
All done in one week. I don't have a ridiculous amount of car 'know-how', but I do have great friends, great resources, and a very mechanical mind.
Not trying to be revolutionary or anything awesome. I'd just thought I'd share what I'm doing with everybody since I drool over everyone else's build threads.
P.S. Cam was just a little anxious in starting this thread for me, the build isn't going to happen until the last week of March(my spring break from college).
5spd swap (w58)
-from supra mk4 '96+, with driveshaft
-other swap necessities
-master/slave cylinder
-flywheel/clutch
-'95 5spd ECU
-IDK why, but i have a stage 3 clutch (I'll probably just use the pressure plate. NEED to know if this is a bad idea)
-pedals assembled by hand..... (that spring was a B1-tch)
-new throw-out bearing
-new fork pivot
-delrin shift ****...booyah
-Just need the full clutch line, and fluids and I think I'm set.
Struts/Springs:
KYB Gr2's with tanabe nf210's or eibachs
tokico blues with " "
New rotors and pads all around.
...why upgrade to BBK if I'm not anything more than just N/A (seems like a waste of $$ to me)
-non of this organic BS, ceramic all around complete with stainless rotors.
-possibly braided lines, but we'll see how much $$$ is left...
AC delete
-It's noisy it's old, I dont use AC and I just roll the windows down anyway...
- Should free up at least ONE pony
NEW TIRES
-Since I purchased the car in May of '10 I've put about 22K on the car already. Yeah, that's right, 22k. I commute about 60miles/day(total) for work, and I have family >=2hrs away in any direction (thats about 100-120 miles depending on traffic)
-I have rims for the summer and stockies for the winter, so tirerack, here I come.
THE CATCH:
All done in one week. I don't have a ridiculous amount of car 'know-how', but I do have great friends, great resources, and a very mechanical mind.
Not trying to be revolutionary or anything awesome. I'd just thought I'd share what I'm doing with everybody since I drool over everyone else's build threads.
P.S. Cam was just a little anxious in starting this thread for me, the build isn't going to happen until the last week of March(my spring break from college).
Last edited by LeeSC300; 02-22-11 at 06:04 PM. Reason: CAM
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As for the price, I'd say that should be good but saving 30% more wouldn't hurt
-Mine was almost $2k since I bought most of the parts new, save trans and driveshaft.
-Just saw in your sig that you are NA-T, hopefully you're looking at getting the R154 and not the w58 (it may be a little bit more, but from what I hear, handling any power greater than stock, you pretty much need the R154. IIRC it also shifts tighter/better)
Last edited by LeeSC300; 02-22-11 at 06:14 PM. Reason: scviolence is na-t
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updates
Updates:
Motor Mounts:
These suckers took me 5hrs to put in. The passenger side was SUPER easy, and that's where I'm going to leave it. I did build much deserved confidence in myself, which leads me to my headlights, bushings, and heater control valve.
sorry for the not-so-great picture, I didn't want to take the intake hose off to snap a photo.
Well the Energy Suspension bushings for the sway bar didn't fit right, so I tried to mod them... pitiful. A lot of heating, smashing, bending, reheating, and more smashing (i didn't have the tools i needed, so a prybar and a sledgehammer were my 'friends' for this one). The bushing itself was a very poor fit. I'll have to find some other method, and do more research myself. On a bushing related note, I am waiting for my UCA, LCA, & rack bushings to arrive from TMengineering.
Headlights were done today(3/11) with a 3M refinishing kit and an "air dremel". I have no idea what to call it. It's an attachment for pneumatic tools that spins disc type bits, just a handle with a 'throttle'. I was please with my first attempt!
What to do with these? I had the ebay lights in while i was debating what to do with my OEM's.
I kept the valve in place and hooked up, just took a fellow members advice and used a 3/4" pex 90º fitting so the system would be continuously open.
Any advice regarding this? I was led to believe that my AC compressor was going, but it turns out that the noise is actually more localized to the alternator. Current spikes and adjustment of the steering wheel make it whine pretty loud. Changed the belt to a 73 1/2" x 3/4" haven't had any issues yet, it's been two days since I put it on.
Motor Mounts:
These suckers took me 5hrs to put in. The passenger side was SUPER easy, and that's where I'm going to leave it. I did build much deserved confidence in myself, which leads me to my headlights, bushings, and heater control valve.
sorry for the not-so-great picture, I didn't want to take the intake hose off to snap a photo.
Well the Energy Suspension bushings for the sway bar didn't fit right, so I tried to mod them... pitiful. A lot of heating, smashing, bending, reheating, and more smashing (i didn't have the tools i needed, so a prybar and a sledgehammer were my 'friends' for this one). The bushing itself was a very poor fit. I'll have to find some other method, and do more research myself. On a bushing related note, I am waiting for my UCA, LCA, & rack bushings to arrive from TMengineering.
Headlights were done today(3/11) with a 3M refinishing kit and an "air dremel". I have no idea what to call it. It's an attachment for pneumatic tools that spins disc type bits, just a handle with a 'throttle'. I was please with my first attempt!
What to do with these? I had the ebay lights in while i was debating what to do with my OEM's.
I kept the valve in place and hooked up, just took a fellow members advice and used a 3/4" pex 90º fitting so the system would be continuously open.
Any advice regarding this? I was led to believe that my AC compressor was going, but it turns out that the noise is actually more localized to the alternator. Current spikes and adjustment of the steering wheel make it whine pretty loud. Changed the belt to a 73 1/2" x 3/4" haven't had any issues yet, it's been two days since I put it on.
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Mini question:
Alternator and or fan assembly is squeaking at idle and under load (more like screaming), whats the proper way to fix this? I'm looking at getting an new alternator (rebuilt or used), and not really looking at the fan so much. Ideas and suggestions are more than welcome!
Alternator and or fan assembly is squeaking at idle and under load (more like screaming), whats the proper way to fix this? I'm looking at getting an new alternator (rebuilt or used), and not really looking at the fan so much. Ideas and suggestions are more than welcome!
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