SC570--The OFFICIAL build thread
11-17-13, 03:55 PM
#436
Nice! Care to build one for me? heh
Wondering how much you think it'll cost to build a most basic manual Lsx powered SC [with A/C] that wont have any issues; what do you think? (Already have the DGR mounts) Parts, and then if someone was paying to have the swap performed vs. doing it themselves?
Really looking foreward to seeing those times drop on boost..
Wondering how much you think it'll cost to build a most basic manual Lsx powered SC [with A/C] that wont have any issues; what do you think? (Already have the DGR mounts) Parts, and then if someone was paying to have the swap performed vs. doing it themselves?
Really looking foreward to seeing those times drop on boost..
. For the most basic setup, 5.3 w/ T56 could be done for under $4500, but naturally it will vary depending on what you pay for engine/trans, how you choose to do the wiring, etc..oh and then the custom a/c lines. As for the labor, I cant begin to go into the cost on having a shop do the work, and I dont charge anything close to what most performance shops do for labor. But, for someone that knows how to read a simple instruction manual or match colors on a wire harness, the swap is just as, if not easier than a 1JZ Soarer swap into an SC300.
Looking good. I love the revolution series in that dash. I had the normal speed hut series in my LS1-RX7. If you are still debating dp placement, I have seen a few do a split and cross over at the rear of the oil pan. I'm actually following two builds, yours (because it's similar to my last build), and the guy using a 1uz and twins on his rx7 (because that's the motor I got now). Keep it up, I can't wait to see this thing someday.
I had had planned on it, and was in the staging lane ready for a 3rd pass that night and then the fog rolled in. Track officials said conditions werent safe, and visibility was very low, so I missed my chance. But, with the amount of time/parts about to be put on, getting into the 10's should be pretty easy.
11-17-13, 04:20 PM
#437
I'm building one for a local Houston SC owner at the moment actually, so if you want me to shoot you some details and ship the car this way, we can work something out .
For the most basic setup, 5.3 w/ T56 could be done for under $4500, but naturally it will vary depending on what you pay for engine/trans, how you choose to do the wiring, etc..oh and then the custom a/c lines. As for the labor, I cant begin to go into the cost on having a shop do the work, and I dont charge anything close to what most performance shops do for labor. But, for someone that knows how to read a simple instruction manual or match colors on a wire harness, the swap is just as, if not easier than a 1JZ Soarer swap into an SC300.
. For the most basic setup, 5.3 w/ T56 could be done for under $4500, but naturally it will vary depending on what you pay for engine/trans, how you choose to do the wiring, etc..oh and then the custom a/c lines. As for the labor, I cant begin to go into the cost on having a shop do the work, and I dont charge anything close to what most performance shops do for labor. But, for someone that knows how to read a simple instruction manual or match colors on a wire harness, the swap is just as, if not easier than a 1JZ Soarer swap into an SC300.
While we're at it, know anyone who does paint/bodywork? 
11-17-13, 04:28 PM
#438
I had forgotten you pmd me back some more detailed info on a budget swap- just re-reading now. I actually don't have the chassis yet anyways- who knows, maybe I could find a hardtop shell there in your area?! I'll be keeping an eye out and consider this... Thanks While we're at it, know anyone who does paint/bodywork?
While we're at it, know anyone who does paint/bodywork? I actually have an SC400 shell, needs some attention and its not hardtop, but for the most part is a complete shell. And, the guy right next door to my shop does paint and body, and I know he could easily shave the sunroof. Check my FS thread, you will see some of the car. Shoot me a pm if you have any questions about it.
11-18-13, 05:34 PM
#439
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I can personally vouch for this dude, Chris is working on my LSX swap and actually was the one to convince me to go the LSX route, I initially was going to go JDM and had a 1jz swap that he was working on but he talked me into the LSX and I wouldnt go back to change the world, talk about aftermarket part support and instant power and torque. He has been able to answer all of my questions and keep me updated and keep patient as I gather all of the parts. To all the JDM purist I say...... Dude drive a 5.7 or 5.3 swap with extras....... You wont be JDM for long! Now to get everything together so I can take my monster out on the streets.....
Last edited by play123boi; 11-18-13 at 05:40 PM.
11-28-13, 11:16 AM
#440
Not the best picture, but the full Weld Draglite setup is on finally:
All the turbo hotside pipes are ordered and awaiting arrival, flanges on the way. Going to mount the FMIC this weekend, and start a mock up, get the radiator moved forward 2'' for clearance for the turbo. Ordering the 5'' downpipe parts and flange soon, then injectors and water/meth injection.
More updates soon.
All the turbo hotside pipes are ordered and awaiting arrival, flanges on the way. Going to mount the FMIC this weekend, and start a mock up, get the radiator moved forward 2'' for clearance for the turbo. Ordering the 5'' downpipe parts and flange soon, then injectors and water/meth injection.
More updates soon.
12-05-13, 02:40 PM
#443
Ok figured my "build" thread kind of dropped off as a build thread, and turned into a "oh look, more junk on the car" thread...so, after a couple of questions about my cluster, I figured it was time to put some real build info in, specifically regarding my dash setup.
All of my gauges are SpeedHut, and so far I have ZERO complaints about them. Excellent quality, the GPS Speedo is spot on accurate (compared with 3 different GPS systems, and several other new cars on the road), Tachometer is very responsive and the built in shift light is amazing. Same quality standard on the smaller fuel and water temp gauges.
So, how did it all wire in, specifically the fuel gauge? Pretty simple with the speedometer cause its GPS. Power, ground, illumination and run the wire for the GPS antenna. Tachometer, same with the exception of the tach signal wire, Ill get into that in a second cause with the LS1, mine is a bit different. Water temp gauge from Speedhut comes with a new sending unit, which SHOULD be the same thread as the OEM Toyota sending unit, but still best to drill/tap a new location IMO. Only gauge I have that will be IDENTICAL wiring to anyone considering aftermarket gauges is the fuel sending unit. Just be sure your fuel gauge is either programmable or is the correct Ohms for the SC's sender or it will not read correctly.
Now, I dont have exact pictures of my wiring, but I will get more details this week to add and toss some pictures in for specific plugs. But all of these wires can be traced back from the body harness, just use a toner on a multimeter and pin them out if your not sure. So lets get started.
I will cover the following wires needed:
Speedometer
Tachometer
Water Temp (wont go too far into this)
Fuel Gauge/sender
High Beam indicator (My Speedometer has led's built in for HB's and turn signals)
Turn Signals
Illumination
Diagrams: Pages 1-4 will have notes below them with details.
Page 1:
From left to right on the diagram (not the red boxes), HB indicator, Fuel sender, Tach signal, Water Temp gauge/sender.
HB indicator I did have some issues with on my car, it would light up regardless if HB's were on or not, so I did not include this. I will look into it more later on.
Fuel sender, I will have to doulbe check and take a picture of the "BU1" dash plug, but my Speedhut gauge was a single wire input gauge. Wire #2 in that box (W-B) was wired to the gauge for input from sending unit. Wire #3 (B-Y) was connected to ground. This is what has worked for me so far. Wire #1 (Y-B) that is not in that box is for the low fuel lever warning light. I left this out.
Tachometer is the next box. This should be very easy, the black wire (B) is coming from body plug IK1. Now with my car having the LS1, I did not use this wire. My engine harness had a dedicated output that was wired directly to the Speedhut gauge input, thus eliminating any issues with 20+yr old wire.
Water temp is the last item on page 1. Again, my gauge included a sending unit, so yet again I skipped this one on the stock dash/cluster harness. If your going with aftermarket gauges, your outcome with a new sending unit will be the same. IF by chance you want to use the stock wire, you should be looking for the wire coming from IK1 (Y-G). If anyone has more info on that, chime in please.
Page 2:
Here you are looking at the speedometer signal. Again, I did not use the stock wiring, I prefer the accuracy and zero-guessing of a GPS speedometer. But, you want the VSS wire from IK1 (L-R), should be pin #7 according to the diagram.
Page 3:
Turn signal indicators. Not all aftermarket gauges have indicators built in for these or the HB light. But with the right set of loose LED's, some extra wiring/soldering, you can put your own indicators in. Wires you are looking for are the G-B and G-Y on plug 1E. Again, I will work on getting pictures of each plug behind the stock cluster, labeling the plug, and getting clear images of each wire needed.
Page 4:
To me, this page was optional. I have an external source for my CEL (ODB-2 Port and a handy little Scan Gauge) so I did not mess with this, but do happen to know if you want to wire in an LED for a CEL, you want the wire from Pin #9 on IK2 (L-Y), this runs directly to the cluster through the body harness.
As for illumination, I didnt want the option to dim my dash with the illumination ****. So I simply skipped all of the wiring in the last box, and found the switched wire that was controlled by the headlight switch on the steering column. Might sound lazy, but...well I just dont care for the dimmer ****.
I will try and get pictures of everything this week, if not early next week. But with a multi meter, the diagrams, and a pinout of the body harness, these are easy to find. Hope this will help those that needed info. If you need assistance, let me know
All of my gauges are SpeedHut, and so far I have ZERO complaints about them. Excellent quality, the GPS Speedo is spot on accurate (compared with 3 different GPS systems, and several other new cars on the road), Tachometer is very responsive and the built in shift light is amazing. Same quality standard on the smaller fuel and water temp gauges.
So, how did it all wire in, specifically the fuel gauge? Pretty simple with the speedometer cause its GPS. Power, ground, illumination and run the wire for the GPS antenna. Tachometer, same with the exception of the tach signal wire, Ill get into that in a second cause with the LS1, mine is a bit different. Water temp gauge from Speedhut comes with a new sending unit, which SHOULD be the same thread as the OEM Toyota sending unit, but still best to drill/tap a new location IMO. Only gauge I have that will be IDENTICAL wiring to anyone considering aftermarket gauges is the fuel sending unit. Just be sure your fuel gauge is either programmable or is the correct Ohms for the SC's sender or it will not read correctly.
Now, I dont have exact pictures of my wiring, but I will get more details this week to add and toss some pictures in for specific plugs. But all of these wires can be traced back from the body harness, just use a toner on a multimeter and pin them out if your not sure. So lets get started.
I will cover the following wires needed:
Speedometer
Tachometer
Water Temp (wont go too far into this)
Fuel Gauge/sender
High Beam indicator (My Speedometer has led's built in for HB's and turn signals)
Turn Signals
Illumination
Diagrams: Pages 1-4 will have notes below them with details.
Page 1:
From left to right on the diagram (not the red boxes), HB indicator, Fuel sender, Tach signal, Water Temp gauge/sender.
HB indicator I did have some issues with on my car, it would light up regardless if HB's were on or not, so I did not include this. I will look into it more later on.
Fuel sender, I will have to doulbe check and take a picture of the "BU1" dash plug, but my Speedhut gauge was a single wire input gauge. Wire #2 in that box (W-B) was wired to the gauge for input from sending unit. Wire #3 (B-Y) was connected to ground. This is what has worked for me so far. Wire #1 (Y-B) that is not in that box is for the low fuel lever warning light. I left this out.
Tachometer is the next box. This should be very easy, the black wire (B) is coming from body plug IK1. Now with my car having the LS1, I did not use this wire. My engine harness had a dedicated output that was wired directly to the Speedhut gauge input, thus eliminating any issues with 20+yr old wire.
Water temp is the last item on page 1. Again, my gauge included a sending unit, so yet again I skipped this one on the stock dash/cluster harness. If your going with aftermarket gauges, your outcome with a new sending unit will be the same. IF by chance you want to use the stock wire, you should be looking for the wire coming from IK1 (Y-G). If anyone has more info on that, chime in please.
Page 2:
Here you are looking at the speedometer signal. Again, I did not use the stock wiring, I prefer the accuracy and zero-guessing of a GPS speedometer. But, you want the VSS wire from IK1 (L-R), should be pin #7 according to the diagram.
Page 3:
Turn signal indicators. Not all aftermarket gauges have indicators built in for these or the HB light. But with the right set of loose LED's, some extra wiring/soldering, you can put your own indicators in. Wires you are looking for are the G-B and G-Y on plug 1E. Again, I will work on getting pictures of each plug behind the stock cluster, labeling the plug, and getting clear images of each wire needed.
Page 4:
To me, this page was optional. I have an external source for my CEL (ODB-2 Port and a handy little Scan Gauge) so I did not mess with this, but do happen to know if you want to wire in an LED for a CEL, you want the wire from Pin #9 on IK2 (L-Y), this runs directly to the cluster through the body harness.
As for illumination, I didnt want the option to dim my dash with the illumination ****. So I simply skipped all of the wiring in the last box, and found the switched wire that was controlled by the headlight switch on the steering column. Might sound lazy, but...well I just dont care for the dimmer ****.
I will try and get pictures of everything this week, if not early next week. But with a multi meter, the diagrams, and a pinout of the body harness, these are easy to find. Hope this will help those that needed info. If you need assistance, let me know
12-06-13, 12:16 PM
#445
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Location: FL
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Thanks for posting the schematics for the cluster. I'm using the stock cluster on mine and have the tach working, just need to install the temp sensor for that guage and wire up the speedo. Have a vss output signal wire already pulled out of the ecm so should just have to match up the signal type like the tach.
12-06-13, 04:29 PM
#446
Thanks for posting the schematics for the cluster. I'm using the stock cluster on mine and have the tach working, just need to install the temp sensor for that guage and wire up the speedo. Have a vss output signal wire already pulled out of the ecm so should just have to match up the signal type like the tach.
.
.
12-21-13, 08:02 PM
#450
And its down again...
car is getting a COMPLETE front to back rewire, a little more weight loss, no more carpet, headliner and rest of the unrequired items coming out including spare-tire-well. Might find time this week to finish up the last bit of the cage.
Moving radiator forward 2''-3'', fuse box being reduced and relocated behind the drivers seat, and going to try and get a complete test fit of the S475 along with the fmic. I will try and include as many pics as possible, but car is going to the next stages soon.
car is getting a COMPLETE front to back rewire, a little more weight loss, no more carpet, headliner and rest of the unrequired items coming out including spare-tire-well. Might find time this week to finish up the last bit of the cage.
Moving radiator forward 2''-3'', fuse box being reduced and relocated behind the drivers seat, and going to try and get a complete test fit of the S475 along with the fmic. I will try and include as many pics as possible, but car is going to the next stages soon.
