Project Lex (92 Royal Jade SC300)
03-27-17, 10:13 AM
#811
Damn, that sucks about your little drift event. Could've definitely been a lot worse. I wouldn't worry about the temp hitting 220. I have heard of people's cars hitting 220 in traffic. I have hit 216-217 before and then changed my thermostat. At 216-217, the needle on the temp gauge hadn't even moved beyond the normal tick mark yet. JZ's run hot anyway..
03-27-17, 07:30 PM
#812
Cool thanks for the feedback.
I just did a quick compression test on the motor. Got 165-170-165-165-172-165. Albeit the motor was cold, but none the less I thought that was a pretty good initial sign. I'd like to do it again with the motor warm, but until I've checked over some more things I'd rather not get things hot yet.
Also found a local wheel repair shop that said they can fix the wheels for $100/ea, with a 1-2 day turn around. Sounded like a fair price and an excellent turn around time, so I will be bringing them in tomorrow for repair. Price doesn't include coating, but that's fine because I have been wanting to recoat all 4 wheels for awhile now, so I guess this gives me a reason to do that. So I'll be looking into potential coating options. Likely will be an OEM silver / aluminum type color as I really like that clean OEM look on these wheels.
I just did a quick compression test on the motor. Got 165-170-165-165-172-165. Albeit the motor was cold, but none the less I thought that was a pretty good initial sign. I'd like to do it again with the motor warm, but until I've checked over some more things I'd rather not get things hot yet.
Also found a local wheel repair shop that said they can fix the wheels for $100/ea, with a 1-2 day turn around. Sounded like a fair price and an excellent turn around time, so I will be bringing them in tomorrow for repair. Price doesn't include coating, but that's fine because I have been wanting to recoat all 4 wheels for awhile now, so I guess this gives me a reason to do that. So I'll be looking into potential coating options. Likely will be an OEM silver / aluminum type color as I really like that clean OEM look on these wheels.
03-27-17, 07:58 PM
#813
I really like the coating you used on the valve covers.
Is that like some matte desert tan powdercoat? And is it just the lighting or is the fuel rail and turbo the same color? Looks amazing regardless. Sucks to hear about the wheel though. Silver would be nice, I also love the silver TT wheels. Had some on my car for a long time that were freshly refinished in OEM silver and looked amazing.
Is that like some matte desert tan powdercoat? And is it just the lighting or is the fuel rail and turbo the same color? Looks amazing regardless. Sucks to hear about the wheel though. Silver would be nice, I also love the silver TT wheels. Had some on my car for a long time that were freshly refinished in OEM silver and looked amazing.
03-28-17, 07:44 AM
#814
Really appreciate the kind words!
Funny you mention the coating. Yes the Turbo, VC, and Fuel Rail are all powder coated the same color.
So the local PCing shop I went to has a wall full of tons of color samples. What I really really wanted was like a satin aluminum color, but it seems nobody really makes a powder coat color that looks like satin uncoated aluminum. Kinda something like this is what I really really wanted
So anyway I picked out like a dozen colors ranging from like a duller chrome, to a bunch of different silvers/metallic silvers, and a couple bronze/copper colors as well. After picking out a dozen different colors, they said this one was the only color they actually had out of all of those. It was actually my least favorite. It's a light grey color, but with a light copper metallic mixed in. In direct sunlight I liked how it looked on the sample card, light grey with some copper metallic. But I actually do not like how it turned out to be honest. The engine bay is usually never in like direct sunlight because the hood shades it. And nobody is looking at it straight on because you're looking off to the side. So it ends up just looking kinda like a light tan like you mentioned. Not what I wanted at all. But it's done, so I'm just going with it. I wanted a more clean OEM-ish kind of look which is why I was looking at silver/aluminum colors. Never was I expecting tan haha! It is growing on me a little though, and I don't think it looks so bad anymore, but definitely was not what I was going for. But the other color is a fine texture black that they used on the intake pipe, intake manifold, and a bunch of other misc little brackets. That turned out exactly like I wanted, I really like that color. Looks OEM clean.
When I do my VVTi swap next year, the tan items will not be tan anymore haha. Going to go to a different PCing place and hopefully they have more colors in stock I can choose from.
Kinda going on here, but one of my main goals of color choice also was something that was easy to keep clean. Polished and other high gloss stuff takes a lot of work to keep it looking great. I have a 3 and 1 year old. I don't have time to constantly keep shiny things shiny. So the colors I'm choosing are ones that I feel like are easy to keep clean with minnimal effort haha. And it's working out nice. texture black looks great as-is, nothing a quick wipe with a rag can't clean most the time. and the tan not being super glossy is easy too. So at least that part of the plan is working out nicely!
Funny you mention the coating. Yes the Turbo, VC, and Fuel Rail are all powder coated the same color.
So the local PCing shop I went to has a wall full of tons of color samples. What I really really wanted was like a satin aluminum color, but it seems nobody really makes a powder coat color that looks like satin uncoated aluminum. Kinda something like this is what I really really wanted
So anyway I picked out like a dozen colors ranging from like a duller chrome, to a bunch of different silvers/metallic silvers, and a couple bronze/copper colors as well. After picking out a dozen different colors, they said this one was the only color they actually had out of all of those. It was actually my least favorite. It's a light grey color, but with a light copper metallic mixed in. In direct sunlight I liked how it looked on the sample card, light grey with some copper metallic. But I actually do not like how it turned out to be honest. The engine bay is usually never in like direct sunlight because the hood shades it. And nobody is looking at it straight on because you're looking off to the side. So it ends up just looking kinda like a light tan like you mentioned. Not what I wanted at all. But it's done, so I'm just going with it. I wanted a more clean OEM-ish kind of look which is why I was looking at silver/aluminum colors. Never was I expecting tan haha! It is growing on me a little though, and I don't think it looks so bad anymore, but definitely was not what I was going for. But the other color is a fine texture black that they used on the intake pipe, intake manifold, and a bunch of other misc little brackets. That turned out exactly like I wanted, I really like that color. Looks OEM clean.
When I do my VVTi swap next year, the tan items will not be tan anymore haha. Going to go to a different PCing place and hopefully they have more colors in stock I can choose from.
Kinda going on here, but one of my main goals of color choice also was something that was easy to keep clean. Polished and other high gloss stuff takes a lot of work to keep it looking great. I have a 3 and 1 year old. I don't have time to constantly keep shiny things shiny. So the colors I'm choosing are ones that I feel like are easy to keep clean with minnimal effort haha. And it's working out nice. texture black looks great as-is, nothing a quick wipe with a rag can't clean most the time. and the tan not being super glossy is easy too. So at least that part of the plan is working out nicely!
03-28-17, 11:30 AM
#815
Grabbed my buddies coolant system pressure tester over lunch and ran home and did a test. Pumped it up to about 14psi and not a single leak in sight, which was kinda promising actually.
I drained out the coolant to see if there was any signs of water/oil mixing. No signs at all, still looked good as new. So I think I'm going to skip draining the oil and looking at it because so far everything is looking good.
I drained out the coolant to see if there was any signs of water/oil mixing. No signs at all, still looked good as new. So I think I'm going to skip draining the oil and looking at it because so far everything is looking good.
03-28-17, 08:08 PM
#817
No luck with ground control. Took forever but they finally did reply to mevvia FB and told me to email a particular guy. I did, and never got any reply at all. At that point I knew that was not a company I cared to do business with.
03-28-17, 08:51 PM
#818
I think the tein street advance setup would be a good solution to your problem. I picked up a set of street basis coils recently, and I think they're perfect for anyone looking to be a little lower than supra tt suspension. They're a little stiffer, but compared to my HKS setup they're soft. The one thing they're missing is damper adjustment. That's why I say the street advance would be a better solution for you.
03-29-17, 06:40 AM
#819
Thanks I'll look into it. What would be really nice is if there were a set of springs that made the car just barely lower. I really don't need the adjustment capability. Just a perfect set of springs that dropped it say 1 more inch.
Anyhow, I think that's going to wait for awhile. The current suspension isn't broken, so I need to focus on what I broke right now haha. And just get the car running perfect, dyno'd, and just enjoy it.
Side note, I went and picked up a new radiator cap just to be safe if perhaps mine was on it's way out as part of this coolant issue. Cheap reassurance that I'm good there. I just picked up a Murray cap from O'Reilly for a Supra (1.1bar instead of 0.9bar). Got the one with the lever so I can manually release pressure should I ever need to.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2021&ppt=C0331
Also, I tested out the fans and they tested fine when jumpered directly to 12V. So I decided to just replace the relay that controls them to be safe. Then afterwards I noticed the wire that goes to AEM to control the fans broke. I have it routed along the top of the passenger side wheel well along with the other wires that I relocated down there that used to run along the side of the engine bay on that side. When I hit the curb, the wheel must have came up and snagged the connectors for that wire and ripped it apart. So that solves the mystery of why the fans didn't come on. And solves the mystery more about why it got so hot. I left it idlling and the fans never came on, so it just got hot enough to the point that the rad cap opened and started releiving pressure/coolant into the overflow. So things are starting to make sense. Anyway I fixed that wiring, installed a new connector, and started the car. Car starts and idles great. Temp climbs up and fans kick on right at 189*, temp drops and fans shut off at 180*. So seems to be working perfectly.
Wheels have been dropped off at the wheel repair shop. Should be done in a day or two. So getting closer to having her back on the road here!
Anyhow, I think that's going to wait for awhile. The current suspension isn't broken, so I need to focus on what I broke right now haha. And just get the car running perfect, dyno'd, and just enjoy it.
Side note, I went and picked up a new radiator cap just to be safe if perhaps mine was on it's way out as part of this coolant issue. Cheap reassurance that I'm good there. I just picked up a Murray cap from O'Reilly for a Supra (1.1bar instead of 0.9bar). Got the one with the lever so I can manually release pressure should I ever need to.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2021&ppt=C0331
Also, I tested out the fans and they tested fine when jumpered directly to 12V. So I decided to just replace the relay that controls them to be safe. Then afterwards I noticed the wire that goes to AEM to control the fans broke. I have it routed along the top of the passenger side wheel well along with the other wires that I relocated down there that used to run along the side of the engine bay on that side. When I hit the curb, the wheel must have came up and snagged the connectors for that wire and ripped it apart. So that solves the mystery of why the fans didn't come on. And solves the mystery more about why it got so hot. I left it idlling and the fans never came on, so it just got hot enough to the point that the rad cap opened and started releiving pressure/coolant into the overflow. So things are starting to make sense. Anyway I fixed that wiring, installed a new connector, and started the car. Car starts and idles great. Temp climbs up and fans kick on right at 189*, temp drops and fans shut off at 180*. So seems to be working perfectly.
Wheels have been dropped off at the wheel repair shop. Should be done in a day or two. So getting closer to having her back on the road here!
04-07-17, 06:09 PM
#821
So while waiting for all the tires to arrive, and for the wheels to get refinished with proline finish, I decided to knock out some other things.
- Installed braided brake lines that I've have sitting here for a couple years now. Went ahead and got the rotors turned while I was at it and flushed the fluid with new DOT4 fluid. Also gave the NA Supra rear calipers a coat of black paint to clean em up a bit and match the fronts.
- Got my new distributor cover design back from Shawn who 3D printed it for me. Fits good except for the ID of the outter portion is about 1mm too tight. So I hand to sand it down and it fits perfect. So I'll be updating the Solidworks model and should be good to go for others to 3D print on their own now.
- Got my two AEM 12 position switches wired into Infinity. One will be for in car boost adjustment. Other for in car traction control adjustment.
- Also got my gauge / switch DIN mount back from Shawn as well who 3D printed it. Haven't fully test fit everything but so far so good, just had to do a little sanding but that's it so far. Once I've verified all fitment I will probably put some sort of vinyl over the front to give it a nice clean finished look.
- Started working on replacing the ABS sensors and then will be wiring them into the Infinity for traction control to function. Plan will also be to use those for a speed signal to the ecu so I can do other cool stuff like boost by mph and what not.
- Installed braided brake lines that I've have sitting here for a couple years now. Went ahead and got the rotors turned while I was at it and flushed the fluid with new DOT4 fluid. Also gave the NA Supra rear calipers a coat of black paint to clean em up a bit and match the fronts.
- Got my new distributor cover design back from Shawn who 3D printed it for me. Fits good except for the ID of the outter portion is about 1mm too tight. So I hand to sand it down and it fits perfect. So I'll be updating the Solidworks model and should be good to go for others to 3D print on their own now.
- Got my two AEM 12 position switches wired into Infinity. One will be for in car boost adjustment. Other for in car traction control adjustment.
- Also got my gauge / switch DIN mount back from Shawn as well who 3D printed it. Haven't fully test fit everything but so far so good, just had to do a little sanding but that's it so far. Once I've verified all fitment I will probably put some sort of vinyl over the front to give it a nice clean finished look.
- Started working on replacing the ABS sensors and then will be wiring them into the Infinity for traction control to function. Plan will also be to use those for a speed signal to the ecu so I can do other cool stuff like boost by mph and what not.
04-12-17, 02:37 PM
#822
Small updates.
I got the replacement ABS sensors installed. So just working on getting them wired to Infinity, slowly but surely. Also started wiring in the clutch pedal switch into Infinity as well.
While I'm really hoping 2017 is going to be a great year, I haven't lost focus of my 2018 plans either. So I got the motor loaded onto the trailer, and all the motor bits I bought from Real St., all loaded up as well. I'll be dropping this off with Daniel Koetz @ Precision Race Engine tomorrow to start doing his thing so it's ready in plenty of time for next Winter!
Manley Rods
Manley Pistons
Manley Valve Springs / Retainers
ARP Mains
ACL Race Bearings
Kelford -C VVTi cams
Real St. Billet Tensioner
I got the replacement ABS sensors installed. So just working on getting them wired to Infinity, slowly but surely. Also started wiring in the clutch pedal switch into Infinity as well.
While I'm really hoping 2017 is going to be a great year, I haven't lost focus of my 2018 plans either. So I got the motor loaded onto the trailer, and all the motor bits I bought from Real St., all loaded up as well. I'll be dropping this off with Daniel Koetz @ Precision Race Engine tomorrow to start doing his thing so it's ready in plenty of time for next Winter!
Manley Rods
Manley Pistons
Manley Valve Springs / Retainers
ARP Mains
ACL Race Bearings
Kelford -C VVTi cams
Real St. Billet Tensioner
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megamax (04-24-17)