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first thing you need to do is make sure all your sensor are reading correctly. Just like Jonathan Fasking keeps saying in those video's. MAKE SURE THEY ARE READING AS THEY SHOULD BE FIRST.
After that is confirmed you need to set TPS volts correctly. Wizards > Set throttle range, than follow the steps. One thing I noticed that Johnath also states per the video is you want min volts to be around 1% and max volts around 99% not 100% or you will get TPS errors. So after you go through the wizard you might notice min volts will be closer to 2% or 1.9ish. Go to the Sensors tab and you will see "Channels - Throttle", which will show the percentage of what the throttle is currently at. Next to it, you will see Options - TPS. This is where you adjust the "TPS min volts" using the -/+ so that the throttle percent gets closer to 1%. I found that .8% works the best. Than do the same for "TPS Max volts". hold the throttle wide open and adjust max volts so it reads closer to 99%. This ensures that the TPS is set correctly. The wizard works but doesn't dial in the TPS sensor completely dead on.
After that is done. You need to sync timing. Wizards > Ignition timing sync > lock timing > than verify with a timing light and adjust accordingly with the advance and retard buttons on the aem. Close the window and the timing will go back to the main timing map.
If she still will not run for more than a few seconds, watch the AFRs and see where its at. You may need to either add or remove fuel in the main fuel map.
Good luck! I just went through this on my build over the last few weeks and its a big learning curve on understanding how the AEM works. Watching those video sure does help along with asking questions from former AEM users on this forum.
bumping this. been a while going to post this ***** up for sale in a few weeks. iam a Nissan guy at heart and i need to get my 13 situated so i can buy a r32 gtr...
well haven't updated this in a while, because none cares. there are a million swap threads like this on the net. but it's time I get ****ed in my wallet and try to wrap up this build= spending an assload of more monies!
so in anticipation(and again another push back) of me getting some adj cam gears and to freshen up the engine bay. I picked up one of these babies for less than $50.00
it fits like a glove(bloddy)
then my wideband and boost gauge went on the fritz, and I became crafty on how I ran my wires up the dash board.
so after over 2 years of not driving straight, and evident sag of the wheels in the front, it is time to do the front suspension so the effing car can steer straight so I can like it more. initially I just wanted to do everything shy of the lca's because those are 500 a set. well I have to get those now too.
but, this all started when I had to replace my engine cross member.
then it spread like wildfire, or like a gay man at a boy scouts camp. I had to remove and reseal my oil pan because the back was sweating oil. so I picked up these nifty suckers to keep that from happening again.
then I got my bushlings, should I put these in if iam getting brand new arms??
what I didn't think about and know is with 20+ year old ball joints things go bad, and adding the ls400 swap on these components don't lead to happy campers when worn. I forgot how heavy each rotor/brake cap is on each wheel. so in shape bj's are a must. just a suggestion for people who just want to slap on coilovers and not change every suspension components.
That mk4 front upper control arms were different than the sc upper arms?? iirc the mk4 and the sc shared the same engine mount support. apparently not(sad face)
so I ordered some oem front lower arms(getting **** reamed, but a deal at $515 for the pair after tax). so iam hoping those work.
I see that the mk4's arms are longer iam guessing this makes coilover usage easier to alighn??
05-02-14, 08:30 AM
