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idk what yours is making. but mine was making a loud metal on metal sound. I didn't fully put back my interior after I finished my r154 swap so I was able to lift up the shift boot that bolts to the trans tunnel and heard the driveshaft making a bunch of noise. I took off the driveshaft, removed the dust cover from the driveshaft, put it together and now its running and sounds so much better. no noise at all.
who knows, that might be what yours is making. double check all you flywheel bolts, (I know the trans is bolted up and you don't want to take it down again but its always good to know.) double check pressure plate bolts, driveshaft bolts between the two pieces, driveshaft carrier bearing bolts, (hope you got a new one if you did do a auto to manual swap,) rubber coupling bolts. best way but scariest way to hear this better is lift up the rear end and have someone sit inside, put it in gear and let it do its thing. the noise should still be there.
you know I did take off that dust cover and I still have the noise. my mechanic says it's the clutch, but iam starting to think it's the cv joint?? and no I did not get a center carrier bearing(yet).
god way to tell if its axles, or not, lift it up disconnect both axes, put it in drive and see if it still does it. if it does make the noise, its not the axles. if the noise goes away, put back ONE of the axles and put it in drive, if no noise still, install the opposite axle and repeat. carrier bearing just has to spin freely. as long as it does not have rough spots or anything then you should be fine. hearing it again it could be throwout bearing or pilot bearing. i'd bet on throwout though. maybe the hub wasn't installed right? from my understanding it has to be installed exactly to specs then it could cause fitment issues. I never thought noise issues also but I guess it might. another thing to look at I guess.
so before I did that toe stuff. I wanted to keep my cabin temps lower. and if you seen what I did to my shifter tunnel you know it was inadequate for long term use. so with my new welding powers. I rolled back the carpet, made a template of a cutout, and got to work.
got rid of the paint so template could adhere.
and here is the finished product.
while I was at it I decided to make a short shifter.
so this shifter was a TEAM effort. as I did the top/thread weld and my local welder guy finished the rest.
and iam super happy. it feels great and no more "iam a trucker" complex!!!
so I was in pa last week and there was an accident, and the cars were allowed to go back on the highway on the shoulder. anyway the semis in the right lane didn't move enough and I creamed a rock on the shoulder. didn't see this till I got to Indiana.
and finally there is some rust boiling here. you guys think I should just replace the whole panel? or cut the rust, and pull out the ding??
holy ****!! ben a while since ive updated. well been using this as the daily since the s13 has been down for a while. Been traveling back and forth from Missouri to nyc and all points in between. put about 23k miles on swap since completed. - SO LETS RE-CAP!
so I had to re-do the front upper arms. brought and installed the megan front upper camber arms. I must say they are kick *** quality and I have 0 problems out of them(make sure you Loctite the bolts)
so I decided I needed bigger speakers in the rear, also I was going to do moar long distance driving. so I needed my pornos to sound like gold when I played them. STILL poor I decided on some sony speakers.
I had to dremel the front and back housings where the speakers went to make everything fit.
these are the fronts, and iirc I got some 6x9's for the rears.
But before that I needed to modify the rear where these speakers would go. took many hrs with some careful cutting and drilling. was able to make a solution.
later on I scooped up a good name brand 7" double din touch screen.
now on long trips my solitude isn't so bad!
but I had a gap.....
I really REALLY missed my cubbie, so I went to best buy and had to hack up a solution to fill the hole.
it's small but it will do. so my sound/entertainment system is complete for this car.
hey if you are not using the FFI manifold you bought from China... let me buy it or can you tell me the info where you bought it. Thinking of doing a high HP NA-T .
So I finally got my hands on a celica steering wheel. and it's so simple to switch it over a caveman can do it. there is a write-up on how to splice over the airbag wires and the simple grounding for the horn.
so rocking the cheap e-fans I brought from advance auto for 2 years. They keep the temps down. brought a temp switch relay from autozone and all was well in the kingdom. then one of the fans died. and I had to look for an alternative.
WHY NO CLUTCH FAN?-u ask. well I prefer the electric fan more with a temp switch because after the car is turned off it runs longer to cool the rad core down. this is beneficial for track days, and hot as **** days also. and the parasitic loss isn't there like on a clutch fan.
so I needed an oem quality clutch fan with kick *** cfm flow. ive heard Taurus fans are the go-to ones. but the shroud won't fit the supra rad. what's a guy to do?
The Volvo rad fan uses the Taurus motor and comes with a nifty relay system. so I sourced one and proceeded to make it work.
easy to wire/understand relay system.
now was the fan shroud. I got some cheap metal and extended it alittle to make it work.
and final installation.
to finish up this job, you will need a bmw temp sensor. preferably this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131254980884?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
the pigtail harness for that sensor(get one at a junkyard off a 90's bimmer)
AND
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271852873691?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
know how to wire things in and poof. a kick *** proven oem-like cooling system.
04-14-15, 06:47 PM
