SC300 NA-T/Body work
#31
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i picked up a set of LS400 calipers, rotors and pads. im looking at a few install guides here and on supraforums, looks pretty simple. my question is if i have all the parts; the calipers are "friction ready" but dont have pads or shims or any hardware installed. I have a couple bags of LS400 caliper hardware including the shorter bolts, p/n 9010512228. Do i need shims? any guide on how to put the caliper together? i know nothing of brakes, so it will be cool to learn and do my own brake maint. from now on.
#34
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bare caliper, clean, inspect boots around pistons, if good to go use an old pad and a C clamp to compress the pistons until all 4 are mostly in (some may want to pop back out thats why using an old pad flat in there to push on helps).
once you do that and caliper is ready for pads, then grease up the back of the pads with the anit-squeak lube (do not get on front pad surface or rotor), drop pads into the caliper lubed sides against pistons, slide the 2 large pins through the top of the pads that hold them in place, then put the spring clip through the holes on the 2 pins so they cannot back out, there is a locking groove on the caliper for the center part of the spring pin.
slide loaded caliper over the rotor, use 1 of the old SC bolts, and one of the shorter ls bolts (or grind some off the SC one), and then connect the brake line, and you are good to go after filling and bleeding the system.
If you are quick to disconnect the brake line from your old caliper and quickly bolt it onto the new caliper, you can prevent emptying the whole system of brake fluid and the bleeding just takes 20 seconds instead of an involved effort.
an upside down bucket next to the rotor will be your best friend for holding the ls caliper while you quickly swap the lines, and any time you need to set the brake down without leaving it hanging off the brake line which is a horrible idea, even if for only a few seconds, don't do it.
once you do that and caliper is ready for pads, then grease up the back of the pads with the anit-squeak lube (do not get on front pad surface or rotor), drop pads into the caliper lubed sides against pistons, slide the 2 large pins through the top of the pads that hold them in place, then put the spring clip through the holes on the 2 pins so they cannot back out, there is a locking groove on the caliper for the center part of the spring pin.
slide loaded caliper over the rotor, use 1 of the old SC bolts, and one of the shorter ls bolts (or grind some off the SC one), and then connect the brake line, and you are good to go after filling and bleeding the system.
If you are quick to disconnect the brake line from your old caliper and quickly bolt it onto the new caliper, you can prevent emptying the whole system of brake fluid and the bleeding just takes 20 seconds instead of an involved effort.
an upside down bucket next to the rotor will be your best friend for holding the ls caliper while you quickly swap the lines, and any time you need to set the brake down without leaving it hanging off the brake line which is a horrible idea, even if for only a few seconds, don't do it.
#35
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thanks for the hardware install guide; looks like i have everything to finish this up. just need to get my 19s powder coated and ill be ready to complete this portion of the build. i just ordered some strut tower bars for the front/rear as well. heres some shots of the brakes.
#36
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started a new thread for my auto -> R154 conversion here:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...onversion.html
and the TT ecu mod thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...t-ecu-mod.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...onversion.html
and the TT ecu mod thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...t-ecu-mod.html
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