MustangSal

I had an installer do a full paint correction and then Gyeon MOHS ceramic for my GS. I don't have the space or the tools to do that. The paint correction was key. Installing the MOHS? Dunno.

Now I wash with Shine products and keep it spritz detailed as necessary. Once a quarter I finish it with Gyeon Q2/Cure as required. Seems to be keeping fine.

Break2

How much was the whole package?

MustangSal

$1,400. Dirty Details in Virginia Beach. All the items in my sig. Treated basically everything - wheel wells, rims, trim, glass. Interior detail. And the car of course.

roblim

Ditto. It's the prep work that will make the most difference. There is no use in putting a coating on paint that is in poor condition. You need to spend the time to the get the surface looking perfect and then apply the coating. That's where a professional detailer's experience comes into play. Knowing how to correct paint will make a big difference in the end product.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

How long have you owned the car? It's possible the dealer had the car cleaned and they used a product with fillers to hide all the swirls. If it's been a couple months since you bought the car, then there is probably a nice sealant or coating applied to the car already.

If you still want to apply a sealant, then you should polish the car for the best possible bond.

AndyL

Totally agree with what you said. I have a similar garage setup as far as car detailing is concerned. Also had my first time coating the entire car.

In order to produce an ideal environment for coating, I bought some ScanGrip Multimatch LED work lights which cost a fortune (luckily there were some discounts). It turns out they are worth it. The upcoming ScanGrip Multimatch 2 is even better, though, as they have 2 colour temperature settings (WARM 4500K and Cool 6500K)

For coating, I have tried CarPro CQUK & DLUX, Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM.

I find Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM are extremely easy to apply. No difficulty in buffing at all if used them correctly. For reference, the ambient temperature for application was around 18-20C (64-48F). So for hotter environment, the result may vary.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Interesting, I'm using 6500k bulbs. I might double up the light fixtures and add 4500k lights too, so I can alternate between the two depending on the color of the car.

roblim

I just applied Opti-Coat Gloss-Coat on my 2014 GS350. It was a lot easier than I expected. My car was clayed and waxed by a professional detailer a week ago so the paint was in good shape. I washed with Dawn dish washing detergent to remove the wax and then applied Gloss-Coat in my garage. Outside temp was about 72 degrees. I watched several youtube videos on the process. It was extremely easy. It's hard to tell that it is even on the car. I have another car which has the professional version. The gloss-coat looks glossier and feels a little smoother. The other car was done a year ago.

thehank

The prep is the part to worry about. I'd go with CQuartz UK as it's easy to apply in any weather. Just a cleaner process compared to waxing. I've cquartz my wheels, windows, and entire car and never had a problem with it. Just have to make sure you have good microfiber towels for the correction and buffing the quartz. As any high spots left, will stay there Washing the car is a breeze anymore, and almost a joke. My weekly washes have turned into bi-weekly and sure I love to wax my car but I like to focus on the minor details of it all rather than scrubbing down the car.

You can apply reload or hydro2 every 2 months to give it a boost. I use a foam cannon to wash and I turn to the garden hose to sheet the water to make drying easier. Amazon has a good deal for $50 for a CQuartz UK kit with the suede applicators and a bottle of reload for the future.

I'd never go back to wax.

Durrby

iTrader: (3)

I recently had my ISF coated with CQuartz. It hasn't been washed at all yet because it's been at Lexus a few weeks dealing with the airbag recall as well as some other repairs. It was coated the week or so before I brought it in so I wasn't able to wash it yet.

What is the procedure for correctly washing/drying? I've googled a few things but I just want to make sure I'll be doing it right. I currently use Mothers California Gold Wash and Wax. Should I not use this as it has wax in it? What wash should I be using? As far as drying I know I won't be able to use my Absorber drying chamois anymore. What's the correct way to dry a coated vehicle? I know some people say to use a leaf blower.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Google the 2 bucket method for washing and it should give you a good starting point for washing. As far as tools go, you'll want a quality wash mitt, soap, 2 or 3 buckets, high quality drying towels, and a clean plastic container with lid to store your towels and mitt. I wouldn't use the mothers soap because the wax in it will provide diminishing returns. It'll top your coating with something worse than the coating. I would give Carpro Reset soap a try since they make Cquartz. Also, a bottle of Carpro Hydro2 to top off your coating every few months will help too.

I would recommend getting a leaf blower or metro blaster it makes drying the car so much faster. You'll only need 1 towel to clean up the left over water drips.

Durrby

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply! What is your take on something like this? http://www.chemicalguys.com/Best_Two...FQ-bfgodLi4M0A

I just figure I would have to buy most of the stuff separate anyway and I'm sure it will add up to close to that. Or should I really stick with the Carpro stuff and just pick this up for the buckets, guards, mitt, towel etc?

thehank

For drying, you'll want a decent waffle weave microfiber towel. Check out The Rag Company - https://www.theragcompany.com/drying/ . It's always best to use a spray while drying. 1-2 mists per panel, and continuing to fold after each panel with towel. You want some sort of lubricant between the towel and paint besides water. I picked up a jug of the quick detailing spray on amazon. I usually use 2-3 microfibers to dry. Do a quick once over then finish off with a new towel. But since you have the CQuartz on it, it'll be easier and if your local car wash has a blow dryer, then that makes it 100 times easier. Washing at home, I'll switch my power washer to the regular garden hose, then "sheet" the water off. Only a few beads per panel and drying is a joke.

"it's been at Lexus a few weeks" - it's a known issue that dealership will wash your car and install swirls with their auto washes. But I have seen a few that will hand wash your car, which isn't terrible.

But to answer your other question, be aware of the soaps you use as they may have filler waxes, etc, But I've never noticed any harm to be honest. I doubt any fillers as simple as a soap that's rinsed off within 5 minutes would have any lasting affect on a semi permanent coating such as CQuartz.

Check out AQuartz - I believe it's scratch resistant, and there are videos of it healing with warm water (or time) - but I could be wrong. Hope you get the ride back soon. Pics?

thehank

Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM - how do these compare to the Dlux and UK? I've only used those two. Do they last as long? Where did you get them from? Thanks

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

That kit is a nice starting point. Personally, I would still go with the Carpro products because they designed the coating and matching accessories for it. It isn't necessary to do so, but that is the option I would choose.

The CG soaps will work fine for cleaning your car (the mothers soap would work too), but I don't think they'll enhance your coating in any way.