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Hi guys, I bought the Optimim No Rinse to wash my car and its been great so far. Excep that I just cant clean or get rid of these little brown/ yellow blackish dot. You guys can see it in the picture below.
My car is Ultra white and is brand new only drive for 1 month. The car has been coated with Cquartz Finest. So I just dont know why I cant get rid of those things with ONR? Do I have to use a real car wash soap? Iwas using ONR with dilution of 2oz to 30oz of distilled water. Any help would be appreciated.
Does your car stay outside or in a garage? Do you live in a big city?
That looks like bonded contamination. It seems like that is on the rear of the car, which is pretty common with exhaust and easily visible on white cars. Is that same type of contamination on the rest of the car or only the rear?
Yea I park my car outside in the parking lot, I live in an apartment, so there's no garage. Yea those only appear on the Rear of the car, on the top part of the rear bumper (just below the trunk lid).
So that means I have to clay my car every 2 weeks ? cause those will appear again I'm sure. Isn't claying will get rid of my Cquartz coating? and also the more claying , the more it takes off the clear coat of the paint also?
What about CarPro Iron X? would that get rid of them and without affecting the Cquartz Coating?
Clay has absolutely no effect on a nano coating... clay is a non abrasive substance and does not remove any paint. It removes particles stuck to the paint.
I believe what you are seeing is from the exhaust... one of the downfalls of having a white vehicle is how easily you can see industrial fallout, soot, tar, etc. The major benefit is how difficult it is to see swirl marks and defects.
You don't have to clay your car every two weeks, but if the spots bother you and show up that quickly, then yes you will likely need to. IronX is definitely an option, however if you are only able to do rinseless or waterless washes, I would not use IronX as it is important to be able to thoroughly rinse the area after treating with IX. I suppose if you wanted to only treat that small area, I would try to spray ironx onto a towel and gently wipe the area to see if you can lift the particles that way, then wash... but I am not sure how useful that will be.
Yea ppl suggested me to use Iron X, but i'm not 100% sure it will get rid of those things. But you're 100% sure that Clay will take care of them right? and thx again for the infos.
Yea I don't have access to water, but I can go to a DIY carwash place and put in like $3 to do High pressure rinse. Ppl on here told me I can bring my own bucket and soap to wash the car if I go early in the morning.
And what is a good Clay that you can recommend me to get? thx I never used Clay before and it would be my first time.
Also is it better to buy those Clay Pad and use with a Polisher? or just use a traditional clay bar? which one will give better result and less scratch on paint?
Also is it better to buy those Clay Pad and use with a Polisher? or just use a traditional clay bar? which one will give better result and less scratch on paint?
IMO, they all will scratch the car! The older clay bar is clay that picks off the small specs and causes damage as you rub it back and forth! Which causes scratches and swirl marks. But once you drop the clay, you have to throw it away. The chemical guys clay mitt is a newer claying method, but you can drop it on the ground and wash off the debris and after each panel your supposed to wash it on a cloth to remove the debris. IDK bout the polisher but that is another method to doing the job. When I first clayed my car with the mitt I noticed new scratches with the mitt, so it was bound to happen! Just breathing on a car will scratch it! LOL. GL
IMO, they all will scratch the car! The older clay bar is clay that picks off the small specs and causes damage as you rub it back and forth! Which causes scratches and swirl marks. But once you drop the clay, you have to throw it away. The chemical guys clay mitt is a newer claying method, but you can drop it on the ground and wash off the debris and after each panel your supposed to wash it on a cloth to remove the debris. IDK bout the polisher but that is another method to doing the job. When I first clayed my car with the mitt I noticed new scratches with the mitt, so it was bound to happen! Just breathing on a car will scratch it! LOL. GL
Well if claying scratch the car, then why ppl and Detailers are doing it?
IMO, they all will scratch the car! The older clay bar is clay that picks off the small specs and causes damage as you rub it back and forth! Which causes scratches and swirl marks. But once you drop the clay, you have to throw it away. The chemical guys clay mitt is a newer claying method, but you can drop it on the ground and wash off the debris and after each panel your supposed to wash it on a cloth to remove the debris. IDK bout the polisher but that is another method to doing the job. When I first clayed my car with the mitt I noticed new scratches with the mitt, so it was bound to happen! Just breathing on a car will scratch it! LOL. GL
So you used the Clay Mitt and you scratched the car? and you stopped using it? and now you recommended me using it?
So you used the Clay Mitt and you scratched the car? and you stopped using it? and now you recommended me using it?
Well they are light scratches which is inevitable! I recommended it because that's what I use! Talk to any members on here who use clay bars on their cars and they will tell you it will scratch their cars! Up to you man, Im just giving you advice, maybe not the best!
Yea ppl suggested me to use Iron X, but i'm not 100% sure it will get rid of those things. But you're 100% sure that Clay will take care of them right? and thx again for the infos.
If they are ferrous particles, then yes, IronX will remove them. If they are not completely ferrous, then there will be some left over.
Originally Posted by jincuteguy
And what is a good Clay that you can recommend me to get? thx I never used Clay before and it would be my first time.
Clay is clay for the most part. Go to your local auto parts store and pick up the meguiar's or mother's clay kit.
Well if claying scratch the car, then why ppl and Detailers are doing it?
Here is the simple truth, anytime you touch the car you risk scratching it...
With regards to clay, I am going to assume I have clayed more cars that the average vehicle owner here, so here is my experience... traditional fine grade clay is very safe when used properly. We almost never see signs of marring after using a fine grade clay bar. It is a great choice for routine maintenance.
Synthetic clay mitts and pads are MUCH quicker. They allow you to remove contamination from an entire vehicle way faster than you could with traditional clay bars, but we almost always see marring after using these synthetic clay substitutes. For this reason, I only recommend using clay pads or clay mitts when you are going to be polishing the vehicle afterwards. The marring is easily removed with a light polish, and therefore the added time savings during the decontamination process is totally worth a little bit of marring if you're already going to be polishing afterwards. If you do not plan on polishing, the only form of clay I would recommend would be a traditional fine grade clay bar for reasons mentioned above.
Regarding the price of the synthetic clay vs. traditional clay, the reasoning is that the clay mitts, towels, and pads can be reused over and over again. Also, if you drop them, just wash them off and keep using them. Traditional clay gets dirty and cannot be resused. If you drop it, it should be thrown away. Therefore the cost of the synthetic products may seem high, but for people like myself who use it very often, it is well worth the money. The average DIY owner should be just fine with traditional clay.
Here is the simple truth, anytime you touch the car you risk scratching it...
With regards to clay, I am going to assume I have clayed more cars that the average vehicle owner here, so here is my experience... traditional fine grade clay is very safe when used properly. We almost never see signs of marring after using a fine grade clay bar. It is a great choice for routine maintenance.
Synthetic clay mitts and pads are MUCH quicker. They allow you to remove contamination from an entire vehicle way faster than you could with traditional clay bars, but we almost always see marring after using these synthetic clay substitutes. For this reason, I only recommend using clay pads or clay mitts when you are going to be polishing the vehicle afterwards. The marring is easily removed with a light polish, and therefore the added time savings during the decontamination process is totally worth a little bit of marring if you're already going to be polishing afterwards. If you do not plan on polishing, the only form of clay I would recommend would be a traditional fine grade clay bar for reasons mentioned above.
Regarding the price of the synthetic clay vs. traditional clay, the reasoning is that the clay mitts, towels, and pads can be reused over and over again. Also, if you drop them, just wash them off and keep using them. Traditional clay gets dirty and cannot be resused. If you drop it, it should be thrown away. Therefore the cost of the synthetic products may seem high, but for people like myself who use it very often, it is well worth the money. The average DIY owner should be just fine with traditional clay.
Hey Zach, thx again for all the great information. I ordered a clay bar from DI last night. I read that "How to remove Rail Dust with CarPro Iron X and Clay Bar" by Addison Good.
He said after removing the contamination rail dust, apply Wax, Sealant, or Coating to prevent rail dust. But my car is coated with Cquartz Finest, and I still get these Rail dust? So this is the part Im still confused about. Can you shed me some lights? thx.
Hey Zach, thx again for all the great information. I ordered a clay bar from DI last night. I read that "How to remove Rail Dust with CarPro Iron X and Clay Bar" by Addison Good.
He said after removing the contamination rail dust, apply Wax, Sealant, or Coating to prevent rail dust. But my car is coated with Cquartz Finest, and I still get these Rail dust? So this is the part Im still confused about. Can you shed me some lights? thx.
Coatings will resist more contamination than an uncoated car... I have tested this out personally... however this does not mean your car will be free of all contamination forever. It is a bit odd that you have the spots showing up so quickly. Is your exhaust system modified?
Even my ISF with gutted cats and exhaust does not leave residue on my rear end.
So in your case, I don't have any magical answers other than you should try to track down the source of the contamination and see if there is anything you can do to reduce it.
11-30-16, 04:38 PM
How do I clean these small little dot?
