How do I clean these small little dot?
12-02-16, 12:25 PM
#16
Driver
Thread Starter
Coatings will resist more contamination than an uncoated car... I have tested this out personally... however this does not mean your car will be free of all contamination forever. It is a bit odd that you have the spots showing up so quickly. Is your exhaust system modified?
Even my ISF with gutted cats and exhaust does not leave residue on my rear end.
So in your case, I don't have any magical answers other than you should try to track down the source of the contamination and see if there is anything you can do to reduce it.
Even my ISF with gutted cats and exhaust does not leave residue on my rear end.
So in your case, I don't have any magical answers other than you should try to track down the source of the contamination and see if there is anything you can do to reduce it.
Also I see Detail Image recommended ppl using the Big red Sponge with ONR? https://www.amazon.com/Detail-King-O.../dp/B01FMK69ZC
Or their Lake Country Blue Grout Sponge? All pro detailers are using these sponges with ONR? I thought Sponges are not good and we supposed to use Microfiber towels? any ideas on these?
I also wanna try the new CarPro Ech2o Waterless, I wonder how is it compare to ONR. I know the CarPro Ech2o is a Waterless wash compare to ONR Rinseless wash, but if it's better than ONR, then I would just use it.
Last edited by jincuteguy; 12-02-16 at 12:53 PM.
12-02-16, 03:19 PM
#17
Sponges, Mitts, Towels... they all work fine. I personally just prefer to use several plush microfiber towels when doing rinseless and waterless car washes. For traditional washing I use a microfiber or sheepskin mitt.
I have been testing ECH2O since I got my sample after SEMA, and have been very happy with how it performs as a rinseless wash. Easy to use and quite slick. Even though I have only used it a few times to date, I would say I recommend it so far as I have had no issues using it indoor in temps around 65F and outdoor in temps around 38F.
I have been testing ECH2O since I got my sample after SEMA, and have been very happy with how it performs as a rinseless wash. Easy to use and quite slick. Even though I have only used it a few times to date, I would say I recommend it so far as I have had no issues using it indoor in temps around 65F and outdoor in temps around 38F.
12-02-16, 03:19 PM
#18
Sponges, Mitts, Towels... they all work fine. I personally just prefer to use several plush microfiber towels when doing rinseless and waterless car washes. For traditional washing I use a microfiber or sheepskin mitt.
I have been testing ECH2O since I got my sample after SEMA, and have been very happy with how it performs as a rinseless wash. Easy to use and quite slick. Even though I have only used it a few times to date, I would say I recommend it so far as I have had no issues using it indoor in temps around 65F and outdoor in temps around 38F.
I have been testing ECH2O since I got my sample after SEMA, and have been very happy with how it performs as a rinseless wash. Easy to use and quite slick. Even though I have only used it a few times to date, I would say I recommend it so far as I have had no issues using it indoor in temps around 65F and outdoor in temps around 38F.
12-02-16, 11:59 PM
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
It's nice to know that Sponge is also good for washing besides Microfiber towels, I always thought Sponges are bad compare to Microfiber towels. But now I know, thanks again Zach 
Yea I can't wait to try out the new CarPro Echo20 too. I hope it's better than ONR.
Yea I can't wait to try out the new CarPro Echo20 too. I hope it's better than ONR.
12-03-16, 01:54 PM
#20
Better is pretty subjective... both work really well.
For waterless washes I personally only use plush towels, no mitts or sponges.
Rinseless washes can be done with various types of wash media... but again I personally just use towels. I've got a lot of towels
For waterless washes I personally only use plush towels, no mitts or sponges.
Rinseless washes can be done with various types of wash media... but again I personally just use towels. I've got a lot of towels
12-03-16, 03:13 PM
#22
Coatings will resist more contamination than an uncoated car... I have tested this out personally... however this does not mean your car will be free of all contamination forever. It is a bit odd that you have the spots showing up so quickly. Is your exhaust system modified?
Even my ISF with gutted cats and exhaust does not leave residue on my rear end.
So in your case, I don't have any magical answers other than you should try to track down the source of the contamination and see if there is anything you can do to reduce it.
Even my ISF with gutted cats and exhaust does not leave residue on my rear end.
So in your case, I don't have any magical answers other than you should try to track down the source of the contamination and see if there is anything you can do to reduce it.
12-03-16, 05:27 PM
#24
Driver
Thread Starter
Can't I just clay it instead of using Iron X?
12-03-16, 05:29 PM
#25
Driver
Thread Starter
my isf is completely stock. garage kept. i did a paint correction on it last year and coated the car with 22ple VX3, after about 7k miles this year and weekly washes the right way 1.5hrs each time (completely foaming up the car, pressure washer, and doing a regular 2-bucket wash), the car definitely had some iron contamination on it, the back end being by far the worst section. I attribute it to the stupid-dusting brake pads, highway driving through all weather during the summer months, and spirited driving. It's almost pointless to even wash the wheels because they turn completely brown the next day. All my family cars that have normal brakes do not have this problem at all. the isf is pearl white so the worst color for contamination as you see EVERYTHING.
Yea my 2 front wheels get dirty really quick after couple days from dust pads. The 2 rear wheels are fine. Why only Lexus cars have this brake dust problems?
12-03-16, 06:44 PM
#26
Yes, you can go straight to clay bar and skip iron x. That's how we did things back in the day, iron x is relatively new.
Iron x makes it alot easier and quicker to remove though. It removes majority of the specs, so you don't contaminate the clay bar as much and don't have to spend as much time running the clay bar back and forth on the paint. All of this reduces possible marring done to the paint.
12-03-16, 09:05 PM
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
Coatings do help. I imagine if my isf was not coated, one round of iron-x would not have removed all (or to the naked eye at least) of the contaminants. Coatings help with releasing dirt and contaminants. I drive that car every day through all weather 6 months out of the year (no winter driving) so any time I drive through rain, all the brake dust on the paint will turn into rust specs. By the time I wash it during the weekend it's already too late and the rust specs have embedded into the paint.
Yes, you can go straight to clay bar and skip iron x. That's how we did things back in the day, iron x is relatively new.
Iron x makes it alot easier and quicker to remove though. It removes majority of the specs, so you don't contaminate the clay bar as much and don't have to spend as much time running the clay bar back and forth on the paint. All of this reduces possible marring done to the paint.
Yes, you can go straight to clay bar and skip iron x. That's how we did things back in the day, iron x is relatively new.
Iron x makes it alot easier and quicker to remove though. It removes majority of the specs, so you don't contaminate the clay bar as much and don't have to spend as much time running the clay bar back and forth on the paint. All of this reduces possible marring done to the paint.
12-03-16, 09:52 PM
#28
Iron X is made by the same company that makes CQuartz.
Honestly, after using iron x, your car should actually bead/sheet water even better since technically you are cleaning out the pores of the paint that might otherwise be clogging up the properties of the coating.
12-03-16, 10:07 PM
#29
Driver
Thread Starter
Iron x will absolutely NOT remove CQF or any other coating or wax. There's nothing in it that would strip a wax/sealant/ or coating.
Iron X is made by the same company that makes CQuartz.
Honestly, after using iron x, your car should actually bead/sheet water even better since technically you are cleaning out the pores of the paint that might otherwise be clogging up the properties of the coating.
Iron X is made by the same company that makes CQuartz.
Honestly, after using iron x, your car should actually bead/sheet water even better since technically you are cleaning out the pores of the paint that might otherwise be clogging up the properties of the coating.
12-17-16, 06:54 PM
#30
Driver
Thread Starter
So I got my clay and was trying to clean those little dots with it, and it took forever to get rid of them, and I still coudln't get all of them. Am I doing something wrong? I was using the ONR as the Lubricant for the clay. Was that a bad idea?