Are these rail dust on my NX300H?
06-27-16, 02:32 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Are these rail dust on my NX300H?
About a week ago, I got off of my NX and found these nasty stain all over near bottom of the right side of the doors. I didn't know what these were so just thought I'd wash them off coming weekend. No luck. Tried everything and not one bit of them came off. In my panicking, I've read stuff up all evening and learned about rust bloom caused by rail dust. Now I'm pretty much convinced that I need to get myself a bottle of Iron X asap. Is this a right idea? I'm really green about detailing so any comment and advice will be greatly appreciated.
06-27-16, 05:30 AM
#2
Doesn't particularly look like rail dust to me. Rail dust is usually just very tiny orangish specs, and I have never seen any larger lines / streaks as seen in your photo. If it is on the bottom of the door, I would imagine something was splashed onto the car while driving... perhaps paint or something on the road.
Here is what you would expect to see if it were rail dust...
... and it would not be isolated to just one area on the car.
When you say that you have "tried everything"... what does that include? You mentioned washing, but did not go into the specifics of anything else.
Have you tried a Clay Bar or Solvent (isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, etc)? These are the most common ways to remove bonded contamination. If it is in fact paint, a paint thinner may be needed, however this should be done carefully and always test chemicals in an inconspicuous area first.
-Zach
Here is what you would expect to see if it were rail dust...
... and it would not be isolated to just one area on the car.
When you say that you have "tried everything"... what does that include? You mentioned washing, but did not go into the specifics of anything else.
Have you tried a Clay Bar or Solvent (isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, etc)? These are the most common ways to remove bonded contamination. If it is in fact paint, a paint thinner may be needed, however this should be done carefully and always test chemicals in an inconspicuous area first.
-Zach
06-27-16, 06:03 AM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Doesn't particularly look like rail dust to me. Rail dust is usually just very tiny orangish specs, and I have never seen any larger lines / streaks as seen in your photo. If it is on the bottom of the door, I would imagine something was splashed onto the car while driving... perhaps paint or something on the road.
Here is what you would expect to see if it were rail dust...
... and it would not be isolated to just one area on the car.
When you say that you have "tried everything"... what does that include? You mentioned washing, but did not go into the specifics of anything else.
Have you tried a Clay Bar or Solvent (isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, etc)? These are the most common ways to remove bonded contamination. If it is in fact paint, a paint thinner may be needed, however this should be done carefully and always test chemicals in an inconspicuous area first.
-Zach
Here is what you would expect to see if it were rail dust...
... and it would not be isolated to just one area on the car.
When you say that you have "tried everything"... what does that include? You mentioned washing, but did not go into the specifics of anything else.
Have you tried a Clay Bar or Solvent (isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, etc)? These are the most common ways to remove bonded contamination. If it is in fact paint, a paint thinner may be needed, however this should be done carefully and always test chemicals in an inconspicuous area first.
-Zach
Yeah I've started to notice that these are looking somewhat different than rail dusts so that's why I thought I'd ask here first before Iron X them. I do remember that when I first noticed them there were a couple of much larger and sticky gunks of it which I could easily remove with wet wipes but these smaller bits weren't getting off. I honestly thought it was debris of trashed food or something.
Besides normal washing process, I've tried vinegar, ethanol and WD-40 type lube spray, etc because I had those in hands. Definitely thought about claying it but I'm worried it may marr the surface too much, especially with my inexperienced hands. When I put my fingers on them, they're cleary higher than the clear coat level so I can see some leveling method can shave them off...
Are nail removers safe to try on car finishes?
06-28-16, 12:41 PM
#4
I would recommend to try claying. Use your car soap as clay lube. Watch a few how-to videos on using clay bars. The process is very simple and any beginners can do it
Maybe purchase a mild or medium clay bar.
In my opinion, I would take some slight marring over yellow spots on my car.
Good luck!
Maybe purchase a mild or medium clay bar.
In my opinion, I would take some slight marring over yellow spots on my car.
Good luck!
06-28-16, 06:20 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I would recommend to try claying. Use your car soap as clay lube. Watch a few how-to videos on using clay bars. The process is very simple and any beginners can do it
Maybe purchase a mild or medium clay bar.
In my opinion, I would take some slight marring over yellow spots on my car.
Good luck!
Maybe purchase a mild or medium clay bar.
In my opinion, I would take some slight marring over yellow spots on my car.
Good luck!
06-30-16, 10:55 AM
#6
Claybar missed a couple tiny little rust specs like that in my paint. I got the rest out with a regular meguairs paint cleaner and orbital although you could get this by hand.
07-06-16, 08:17 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So clay bar, CarPro Iron X, Acetone, tar/sticker remover, Scratch X...nothing has worked so far. Weird. I did show it to one professional and he said he has no idea what are these but they've gotten through the clear coat and kind of stained those spots permanently thus there no safe way to remove them. He might be able to try harder solvent or polishing it but he's afraid the clear coat will get ripped in the process, suggesting me to just accept it, suck it up, don't take risks and just leave them as they are.
He seemed pretty genuine about his words but I think he also understood that it's a little sensitive and risky task for what he can charge me.
Now I've gotten kind of stressed out over it for the past couple weeks so I may just listen to his suggestion. But at the same time, I've got some 2000 grit sandpapers lying around so thinking about trying to carefully wet sand them away a bit and apply some Meguiar's ultimate compound. Worth trying to at least tone them down a little?
These aren't all that noticeable from six feet if you're not aware of them though. You have to bend down to the bottom area, looking for them.
He seemed pretty genuine about his words but I think he also understood that it's a little sensitive and risky task for what he can charge me.
Now I've gotten kind of stressed out over it for the past couple weeks so I may just listen to his suggestion. But at the same time, I've got some 2000 grit sandpapers lying around so thinking about trying to carefully wet sand them away a bit and apply some Meguiar's ultimate compound. Worth trying to at least tone them down a little?
These aren't all that noticeable from six feet if you're not aware of them though. You have to bend down to the bottom area, looking for them.
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07-06-16, 08:26 AM
#8
Weird... looking at your image, it seems like it would have to be an above surface contaminant.
If it has penetrated the clear coat, then whoever you talked to was correct and it may be quite risky to remove.
Tread lightly with sand paper... paint is EXTREMELY thin. I would start in an area where you may not see damage if you burn through the paint. Or, just leave it alone as he recommended.
Where are you located? Perhaps I can recommend someone else to have a look at it for you to give a 2nd opinion.
If it has penetrated the clear coat, then whoever you talked to was correct and it may be quite risky to remove.
Tread lightly with sand paper... paint is EXTREMELY thin. I would start in an area where you may not see damage if you burn through the paint. Or, just leave it alone as he recommended.
Where are you located? Perhaps I can recommend someone else to have a look at it for you to give a 2nd opinion.
07-06-16, 08:48 AM
#9
I would try a harder polish. You aren't going to hurt your clear coat with Meguiars Ultimate Compound on an orbital or by hand. I wouldn't attempt the sandpaper however because that's more drastic for like a major paint flaw where the clear coat has already been damaged or something and you're just doing damage control or blending.
07-06-16, 11:35 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Weird... looking at your image, it seems like it would have to be an above surface contaminant.
If it has penetrated the clear coat, then whoever you talked to was correct and it may be quite risky to remove.
Tread lightly with sand paper... paint is EXTREMELY thin. I would start in an area where you may not see damage if you burn through the paint. Or, just leave it alone as he recommended.
Where are you located? Perhaps I can recommend someone else to have a look at it for you to give a 2nd opinion.
If it has penetrated the clear coat, then whoever you talked to was correct and it may be quite risky to remove.
Tread lightly with sand paper... paint is EXTREMELY thin. I would start in an area where you may not see damage if you burn through the paint. Or, just leave it alone as he recommended.
Where are you located? Perhaps I can recommend someone else to have a look at it for you to give a 2nd opinion.
Oh I've only just noticed that it is indicated that I live in U.S, which I am not. I live in Korea. It may out of your reach...but appreciate your trying to helping me. I'll be visiting my dealership sometime this month as they're offering free maintenance check for summer season. So I may seek for the engineer's opinion.
07-06-16, 11:40 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I would try a harder polish. You aren't going to hurt your clear coat with Meguiars Ultimate Compound on an orbital or by hand. I wouldn't attempt the sandpaper however because that's more drastic for like a major paint flaw where the clear coat has already been damaged or something and you're just doing damage control or blending.
07-07-16, 11:29 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Never thought about that. Can't think of an instance where someone was welding in its vicinity but who knows...have you done anything to them on yours?
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