Gville350

iTrader: (10)

My wife got me a great anniversary gift and I've finally got the extra accessories I've wanted to get me started. But I need to know from the pros that use these on a daily basis, what speed settings do you use and any tips of the trade that could help me from the start?

I've used orbital polishers in the past, but the operation of this unit is more "industrial" I guess vs the previous ones I've used. Have I read correctly that I really don't need but only the weight of the polisher to cut and buff?

My first project will my wife's black 2014 Ford Explorer. Paint is factory and flawless. Any tips on using this polisher on this relatively "thick" paint?

Second is my near 11yr old Lexus IS350 in smoky granite mica. I don't have a paint thickest gauge. Any tips?

Thanks everyone!

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

If you can still return it, I would. No offense to your wife, great anniversary gift.

This is a tool I would only touch if I am working on some car that was fully wetsanded or on very large commercial jobs.

On a personal vehicle, especially if you say it's in great shape, there is no need for a rotary tool. There's a steep learning curve to use it safely. I'd switch it out for a Flex 3401 or Rupes Bigfoot. Both of those can do the most challanging paint corrections while still being user friendly and much safer. I got 2 rotaries, haven't touched them in a long time and I buff cars every day almost, there's just no need for them in this day and age unless for fast cutting bodyshop environment.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^I understand what you're saying, it's a better fit in a "production" environment than a DIY'r. My wife has had this hidden away for months and a return isn't possible.

What is a safe rpm to start out at to minimize "burn"?

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=66024

Read that.

Serf27

Cutting and buffing compared to just buffing are 2 completely different things.
If you're just wanting to buff, I suggest you start at 1000rpm and move quickly. Don't touch any edges or body lines being a first timer. Better yet put tape over any body lines/edges.
I would go 1200 for buffing any sanding/cutting scrathes.
It is true, just use the weight of the buffer.
Drop to 700-800rpm for polish, move a bit slower, but don't keep the buffer in one spot, ever.
You can chose to use swirl remover after if you'd like.
Maybe practice on something old first.

KMG

Serf27 is giving you good advice. You will rarely go above setting 2 on your speed dial. I have this exact same tool and rarely use it honestly, as 90% of the time I am using my Rupes. So keep the speed down and always keep the machine moving and you should be fine.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the advice guys; but after thinking about it, I'm seriously considering selling it and purchasing an orbital polisher. Just having to tell my wife about this is going to be rough. But I believe after explaining why it'll make sense...I hope.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

I strongly support that decision.

While rotary machines do have a purpose... the detailing industry has all but ruled them out for 99% of work. Thanks to advancements in machines, pads, and abrasive liquids, the orbital polisher is as capable as ever and SO much safer. It is just very hard to justify the risk of a rotary for what is usually a less impressive final product (due to inexperience when finishing).

-Zach

Serf27

Are you referring to an orbital polisher/waxer? Or a DA orbital OP?

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Orbital/DA polishers such as...

Griot's Garage 3rd Generation Machine
Rupes Bigfoot
Griot's Garage BOSS
Flex 3401 VRG

FastFord

I agree with 97-SC300, The Makita can be a bad boy very fast at almost any speed. Of course, there is more to it than the tool...What pads, compound, polish etc..I like the Flex too

Start slow, setting 2-4 with a pad that doesn't have much "cut", and use a very mild compound/polish etc of some sort.