Ceramic Coating
#31
Lexus Test Driver
Thanks for the advice. I read your article on the application process which I am sure will be very helpful. I'm a little nervous about it but sure it'll be fine. One question, though. Did you have any recommendations on what to use to wipe it off? I assume just a good quality microfiber?
#32
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for the advice. I read your article on the application process which I am sure will be very helpful. I'm a little nervous about it but sure it'll be fine. One question, though. Did you have any recommendations on what to use to wipe it off? I assume just a good quality microfiber?
Use the large towel to level the product, then follow up with a clean (brand new if possible) towel like Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe towel.
Last edited by zmcgovern4; 01-14-16 at 05:42 AM.
#33
Lexus Champion
The coating should come with a 16"x16" suede microfiber towel and several 4"x4" suede towels. The smaller ones are for wrapping around the applicator block, and the large one is for removing product.
Use the large towel to level the product, then follow up with a clean (brand new if possible) towel like Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe towel.
In warmer temps, CQUK can be outright stressful to apply... I have found CQuartz to be a much better product to work with in warmer temps. Both products perform very well, too!
Use the large towel to level the product, then follow up with a clean (brand new if possible) towel like Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe towel.
In warmer temps, CQUK can be outright stressful to apply... I have found CQuartz to be a much better product to work with in warmer temps. Both products perform very well, too!
I hope to apply it in the next few weeks. I am just looking for some drier weather (dang Seattle). I'll be applying it at around 55 degrees or so.
#34
Lexus Champion
Zach, my GS has the "self healing" coat on it, which I largely believe is useless, but I have read that you are not supposed to machine polish it, which I plan on doing before applying CQUK. Just wanted to verify with you that there are no issues with my plan.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#35
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
We are testing several "self healing" coatings at the time. Not to mention any names, but results have varied across the board you can say. Moral of the story, try it yourself first in a small sample size before buying into the hype.
#36
Lexus Champion
It's the factory "self healing paint". I just want to know if I should do anything special/different when I polish/correct before coating with CQuartz.
Frankly, I think it's a marketing gimmick.
Frankly, I think it's a marketing gimmick.
#38
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
So... long story short... if your paint has swirls, scratches, and other defects, I would say just go ahead and correct it like you would with any other vehicle.
It is my understanding that this was first released into production on the LS vehicles, and is now also on some NX vehicles, though I do not think it was ever used on the IS series... I haven't done much research at all, and I don't think Lexus really pushes the marketing out there for this "feature".
#39
Lexus Champion
Thanks for the response.
I was warned that if I were to machine polish it, I would be removing the self healing feature, but since I don't think it really works, I don't see that as a problem. I'd much rather have CQUK on my car than the self healing layer.
It'll only need a light touch, as I have barely any swirls on it, but want to make sure it's looking its best before I put CQUK on it.
I was warned that if I were to machine polish it, I would be removing the self healing feature, but since I don't think it really works, I don't see that as a problem. I'd much rather have CQUK on my car than the self healing layer.
It'll only need a light touch, as I have barely any swirls on it, but want to make sure it's looking its best before I put CQUK on it.
#41
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
It is my understanding that this was first released into production on the LS vehicles, and is now also on some NX vehicles, though I do not think it was ever used on the IS series... I haven't done much research at all, and I don't think Lexus really pushes the marketing out there for this "feature".
#42
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
I know GTechniq markets their latest Crystal Serum as a product that requires sanding to remove, and I honestly don't have any experience with it as I am not a GTechniq installer, but I find that very hard to believe given all that I do know about the coating industry.
#43
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
They don't require sanding to remove... we've installed and reinstalled A LOT of coatings. The layer created by the coating is not hard enough or thick enough to require sanding... though sanding would certainly be an easy way to ensure it has been removed.
I know GTechniq markets their latest Crystal Serum as a product that requires sanding to remove, and I honestly don't have any experience with it as I am not a GTechniq installer, but I find that very hard to believe given all that I do know about the coating industry.
I know GTechniq markets their latest Crystal Serum as a product that requires sanding to remove, and I honestly don't have any experience with it as I am not a GTechniq installer, but I find that very hard to believe given all that I do know about the coating industry.
#44
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Well that's the information that was given to me by a retailer so I just figured it was same as the old school Liquid Glass. I mean it does sound as if you'd need to get into it to remove it if it can withstand scratches and swirl marks right? Sounded like a pretty permanent sealant to me. So you're saying if I seal my paint with ceramic I can buff it off and remove an swirl marks I missed and then reapply it? That's the only thing that's been holding me back so far.
A typical coating averages 1-2 microns in thickness (based on CarPro and Optimum coating information). While this is 100's of times thicker than a typical layer of wax, it is still extremely thin. A cutting compound will remove as much or more material, therefore if there are defects beneath the coating, a paint correction process should be able to remove the coating, exposing the paint, and then begin to remove the defects in the paint.
These coatings do not prevent swirl marks or scratches by any means... they do provide a sacrificial barrier that will help to take some of the damage when the vehicle is scratched. For instance, say a scratch totals 5 microns in depth, and you have 1.5 microns of coating built up on the surface, the paint will only have 3.5 microns of damage rather than 5.
If the coating was never scratched and no abrasive was ever used on it, the layer would theoretically last forever (or a very, very very long time) as the silica molecules bond together to form a crystalline structure.
Hope that makes some sense.
-Zach
#45
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
+1, you don't need to sand anything off if you have imperfections or something you missed and noticed it after you coated the car. You can always go back, repolish, and re-coat. I wish coatings were on that level of hardness and durability where you actually NEEDED to sand to remove it.