22ple or opti coat
08-04-15, 05:59 AM
#16
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I've have had good results with both products. The 22PLE has a greater depth and glossiness to it. the surface also felt slick. It literally looks wet all the time and was easy to clean. Even with weekly washes and a topper, it started to degrade after 2 years. The Opticoat proof the other hand is very durable and provided longer protection vs the 22PLE. The depth and gloss of the 22PLE was superior to the Opticoat. With a topper, the Opticoat can approach the depth and glossiness of the 22PLE but the 22PLE still looked and felt better.
If depth and gloss is more important to your friend I would recommend the 22PLE and plan to have the paint corrected and 22PLE reapplied in 2-3 years. If they want to have a durable coat and depth and gloss is secondary then I would recommend the Opticoat.
If depth and gloss is more important to your friend I would recommend the 22PLE and plan to have the paint corrected and 22PLE reapplied in 2-3 years. If they want to have a durable coat and depth and gloss is secondary then I would recommend the Opticoat.
08-04-15, 06:43 AM
#17
I've have had good results with both products. The 22PLE has a greater depth and glossiness to it. the surface also felt slick. It literally looks wet all the time and was easy to clean. Even with weekly washes and a topper, it started to degrade after 2 years. The Opticoat proof the other hand is very durable and provided longer protection vs the 22PLE. The depth and gloss of the 22PLE was superior to the Opticoat. With a topper, the Opticoat can approach the depth and glossiness of the 22PLE but the 22PLE still looked and felt better.
If depth and gloss is more important to your friend I would recommend the 22PLE and plan to have the paint corrected and 22PLE reapplied in 2-3 years. If they want to have a durable coat and depth and gloss is secondary then I would recommend the Opticoat.
If depth and gloss is more important to your friend I would recommend the 22PLE and plan to have the paint corrected and 22PLE reapplied in 2-3 years. If they want to have a durable coat and depth and gloss is secondary then I would recommend the Opticoat.
The idea that beading = protection is something that has become engrained in most people's minds. The reality of the matter is that beading is simply a result of high surface tension which causes water to bead and sheet away from the surface. There are many, many products that will lower surface tension due to included surfactants in the product. To quote an online source, "Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants."
Products like shampoos, all purpose cleaners, Eraser, etc. contain surfactants, and can effect the hydrophobic properties of the surface they are being used on... or perhaps even stop beading on the surface all together (even on a brand new coating). With traditional waxes or sealants, once the beading stops, the easiest thing for most people to do at this point is to just assume the protection is gone and to add a new layer of wax or sealant. The reality is that there is no way to tell that the layer of protection is actually gone, but since people have associated beading/sheeting with protection, they just assume it is gone when the beading stops.
Coatings are unique in that they contain specific compounds (like SiO2 or SiC) that bond to each other at an atomic level. The particles create covalent bonds which in turn leads to a solid crystallized layer that is very strongly bonded to itself as well as the substrate. This is something that cannot be said about traditional waxes or sealants.
To quote a bit of research regarding covalent bonding specifically in Silicon Dioxide (silica)... "These are giant molecular lattice structures. This implies that strong covalent bonding holds their atoms together in a highly regular extended network. The bonding between the atoms goes on and on in three dimensions. Melting requires the separation of the species comprising the soild state, and boiling the separation of the species comprising the liquid state. Because of the large amount of energy needed to break huge numbers of covalent bonds, all giant covalent network structures have high melting points and boiling points and are insoluble in water."
These covalent bonds do not simply break down over time without help. Energy is required to destroy them. They are, for lack of a better term, permanent (yes, I said the trigger word... don't get frazzled, stay with me for a little while longer). For this reason, I'd go as far as to say that if you place a coated vehicle in a museum and never touched again, the coating would be in tact forever.
In most practical applications, I would assume that it is safe to say that coatings must be abraded to be completely removed. If I had to guess, the reason most brands have shied away from the word 'permanent' is that through normal use, your vehicle will be subjected to a variety of harsh chemicals and grime that will definitely have an effect on the coating - more specifically the hydrophobic properties of the coating, and as we talked about above, most people will assume the coating has "failed" once these surface properties have been disrupted. Also, most vehicles will greatly benefit from a polishing process every couple of years as surface defects are inflicted, therefore the coating would be removed or degraded by the abrasives from polishing.
So - to summarize, all of this is my own personal opinion. I am not a chemist, but I believe beading/sheeting is not a true indication that a coating is no longer present. The chemistry behind how coatings work is far more advanced, and while the surface tension may have been altered over time and therefore beading/sheeting suffers, the layer of protection may very well still be in tact. This is why there are so many great coating topper choices to quickly and easily boost the surface tension and slickness of any coating.
I had this specific conversation with the creator of 22ple earlier this year. He explained to me that the first generation of 22ple products (VX Pro and VX1 Signature) contained a very high silica content, which by nature, is not meant to be the most hydrophobic substance. Many other coatings introduce a variety of polymers into their coating to promote stronger beading/sheeting. This approach has been taken with the newer generation of 22ple coatings (VX Pro 2 and VX3 Signature) as they utilize a newer ultra-high molecular weight (UHMW) silica. This allows for a lower concentration of silica, and therefore additional polymers and "secret ingredients" to boost slickness, gloss, and hydrophobic properties.
22ple is also working on a coating that is completely hydrophillic (ie does not bead at all!). The idea behind this is that water spotting is a direct result of water beading up on the surface. By eliminating the beading all together, but still maintaining the gloss, protection, and self cleaning abilities of a glass coating, they may be able to eliminate water spotting issues. They've got many great ideas that they are currently working on (they spend years developing products before they hit the market), and it was very eye opening discussing some of this with the creator of the company.
I've personally had 22ple VX Pro on the majority of my personal car for 2.5 years now, and although the beading had diminished a while ago (thanks to the harsh winters no doubt), when I test other sealants or waxes on top of it, it is incredibly clear that the bare coating (or VS1 topped area) remains MUCH cleaner throughout a week of driving. So, even though the coating doesn't bead as well as day 1 the benefits of the coating are still present (along with the awesome gloss). I will also add that I did miss one high spot during initial installation and it has not faded at all over 2.5 years indicating the very strong bond is still visibly in tact.
Hope that helps answer some questions.
-Zach
08-04-15, 08:05 PM
#18
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Comparing "durability" of coatings often comes down to people assuming that when the coating stops beading, it is no longer protecting the paint.
The idea that beading = protection is something that has become engrained in most people's minds. The reality of the matter is that beading is simply a result of high surface tension which causes water to bead and sheet away from the surface. There are many, many products that will lower surface tension due to included surfactants in the product. To quote an online source, "Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants."
Products like shampoos, all purpose cleaners, Eraser, etc. contain surfactants, and can effect the hydrophobic properties of the surface they are being used on... or perhaps even stop beading on the surface all together (even on a brand new coating). With traditional waxes or sealants, once the beading stops, the easiest thing for most people to do at this point is to just assume the protection is gone and to add a new layer of wax or sealant. The reality is that there is no way to tell that the layer of protection is actually gone, but since people have associated beading/sheeting with protection, they just assume it is gone when the beading stops.
Coatings are unique in that they contain specific compounds (like SiO2 or SiC) that bond to each other at an atomic level. The particles create covalent bonds which in turn leads to a solid crystallized layer that is very strongly bonded to itself as well as the substrate. This is something that cannot be said about traditional waxes or sealants.
To quote a bit of research regarding covalent bonding specifically in Silicon Dioxide (silica)... "These are giant molecular lattice structures. This implies that strong covalent bonding holds their atoms together in a highly regular extended network. The bonding between the atoms goes on and on in three dimensions. Melting requires the separation of the species comprising the soild state, and boiling the separation of the species comprising the liquid state. Because of the large amount of energy needed to break huge numbers of covalent bonds, all giant covalent network structures have high melting points and boiling points and are insoluble in water."
These covalent bonds do not simply break down over time without help. Energy is required to destroy them. They are, for lack of a better term, permanent (yes, I said the trigger word... don't get frazzled, stay with me for a little while longer). For this reason, I'd go as far as to say that if you place a coated vehicle in a museum and never touched again, the coating would be in tact forever.
In most practical applications, I would assume that it is safe to say that coatings must be abraded to be completely removed. If I had to guess, the reason most brands have shied away from the word 'permanent' is that through normal use, your vehicle will be subjected to a variety of harsh chemicals and grime that will definitely have an effect on the coating - more specifically the hydrophobic properties of the coating, and as we talked about above, most people will assume the coating has "failed" once these surface properties have been disrupted. Also, most vehicles will greatly benefit from a polishing process every couple of years as surface defects are inflicted, therefore the coating would be removed or degraded by the abrasives from polishing.
So - to summarize, all of this is my own personal opinion. I am not a chemist, but I believe beading/sheeting is not a true indication that a coating is no longer present. The chemistry behind how coatings work is far more advanced, and while the surface tension may have been altered over time and therefore beading/sheeting suffers, the layer of protection may very well still be in tact. This is why there are so many great coating topper choices to quickly and easily boost the surface tension and slickness of any coating.
I had this specific conversation with the creator of 22ple earlier this year. He explained to me that the first generation of 22ple products (VX Pro and VX1 Signature) contained a very high silica content, which by nature, is not meant to be the most hydrophobic substance. Many other coatings introduce a variety of polymers into their coating to promote stronger beading/sheeting. This approach has been taken with the newer generation of 22ple coatings (VX Pro 2 and VX3 Signature) as they utilize a newer ultra-high molecular weight (UHMW) silica. This allows for a lower concentration of silica, and therefore additional polymers and "secret ingredients" to boost slickness, gloss, and hydrophobic properties.
22ple is also working on a coating that is completely hydrophillic (ie does not bead at all!). The idea behind this is that water spotting is a direct result of water beading up on the surface. By eliminating the beading all together, but still maintaining the gloss, protection, and self cleaning abilities of a glass coating, they may be able to eliminate water spotting issues. They've got many great ideas that they are currently working on (they spend years developing products before they hit the market), and it was very eye opening discussing some of this with the creator of the company.
I've personally had 22ple VX Pro on the majority of my personal car for 2.5 years now, and although the beading had diminished a while ago (thanks to the harsh winters no doubt), when I test other sealants or waxes on top of it, it is incredibly clear that the bare coating (or VS1 topped area) remains MUCH cleaner throughout a week of driving. So, even though the coating doesn't bead as well as day 1 the benefits of the coating are still present (along with the awesome gloss). I will also add that I did miss one high spot during initial installation and it has not faded at all over 2.5 years indicating the very strong bond is still visibly in tact.
Hope that helps answer some questions.
-Zach
The idea that beading = protection is something that has become engrained in most people's minds. The reality of the matter is that beading is simply a result of high surface tension which causes water to bead and sheet away from the surface. There are many, many products that will lower surface tension due to included surfactants in the product. To quote an online source, "Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants."
Products like shampoos, all purpose cleaners, Eraser, etc. contain surfactants, and can effect the hydrophobic properties of the surface they are being used on... or perhaps even stop beading on the surface all together (even on a brand new coating). With traditional waxes or sealants, once the beading stops, the easiest thing for most people to do at this point is to just assume the protection is gone and to add a new layer of wax or sealant. The reality is that there is no way to tell that the layer of protection is actually gone, but since people have associated beading/sheeting with protection, they just assume it is gone when the beading stops.
Coatings are unique in that they contain specific compounds (like SiO2 or SiC) that bond to each other at an atomic level. The particles create covalent bonds which in turn leads to a solid crystallized layer that is very strongly bonded to itself as well as the substrate. This is something that cannot be said about traditional waxes or sealants.
To quote a bit of research regarding covalent bonding specifically in Silicon Dioxide (silica)... "These are giant molecular lattice structures. This implies that strong covalent bonding holds their atoms together in a highly regular extended network. The bonding between the atoms goes on and on in three dimensions. Melting requires the separation of the species comprising the soild state, and boiling the separation of the species comprising the liquid state. Because of the large amount of energy needed to break huge numbers of covalent bonds, all giant covalent network structures have high melting points and boiling points and are insoluble in water."
These covalent bonds do not simply break down over time without help. Energy is required to destroy them. They are, for lack of a better term, permanent (yes, I said the trigger word... don't get frazzled, stay with me for a little while longer). For this reason, I'd go as far as to say that if you place a coated vehicle in a museum and never touched again, the coating would be in tact forever.
In most practical applications, I would assume that it is safe to say that coatings must be abraded to be completely removed. If I had to guess, the reason most brands have shied away from the word 'permanent' is that through normal use, your vehicle will be subjected to a variety of harsh chemicals and grime that will definitely have an effect on the coating - more specifically the hydrophobic properties of the coating, and as we talked about above, most people will assume the coating has "failed" once these surface properties have been disrupted. Also, most vehicles will greatly benefit from a polishing process every couple of years as surface defects are inflicted, therefore the coating would be removed or degraded by the abrasives from polishing.
So - to summarize, all of this is my own personal opinion. I am not a chemist, but I believe beading/sheeting is not a true indication that a coating is no longer present. The chemistry behind how coatings work is far more advanced, and while the surface tension may have been altered over time and therefore beading/sheeting suffers, the layer of protection may very well still be in tact. This is why there are so many great coating topper choices to quickly and easily boost the surface tension and slickness of any coating.
I had this specific conversation with the creator of 22ple earlier this year. He explained to me that the first generation of 22ple products (VX Pro and VX1 Signature) contained a very high silica content, which by nature, is not meant to be the most hydrophobic substance. Many other coatings introduce a variety of polymers into their coating to promote stronger beading/sheeting. This approach has been taken with the newer generation of 22ple coatings (VX Pro 2 and VX3 Signature) as they utilize a newer ultra-high molecular weight (UHMW) silica. This allows for a lower concentration of silica, and therefore additional polymers and "secret ingredients" to boost slickness, gloss, and hydrophobic properties.
22ple is also working on a coating that is completely hydrophillic (ie does not bead at all!). The idea behind this is that water spotting is a direct result of water beading up on the surface. By eliminating the beading all together, but still maintaining the gloss, protection, and self cleaning abilities of a glass coating, they may be able to eliminate water spotting issues. They've got many great ideas that they are currently working on (they spend years developing products before they hit the market), and it was very eye opening discussing some of this with the creator of the company.
I've personally had 22ple VX Pro on the majority of my personal car for 2.5 years now, and although the beading had diminished a while ago (thanks to the harsh winters no doubt), when I test other sealants or waxes on top of it, it is incredibly clear that the bare coating (or VS1 topped area) remains MUCH cleaner throughout a week of driving. So, even though the coating doesn't bead as well as day 1 the benefits of the coating are still present (along with the awesome gloss). I will also add that I did miss one high spot during initial installation and it has not faded at all over 2.5 years indicating the very strong bond is still visibly in tact.
Hope that helps answer some questions.
-Zach
I enjoy reading your posts and I am not discounting your knowledge or the sources you have cited. Just stating a point of view. I have a background in corrosion and do understand the compositions and structure at a molecular level. Part of my responsibility prior to retiring was to oversee the review and approve various corrosion studies for the DoD and NASA. To have a good discussion on durability we should probably define what is durability and how to measure it.The debate goes round and round around durability until the definition of durability and the critical measures are defined, tests are conducted and the results are evaluated.
The vendors can put their time and money into that effort. I'm more interested in helping people and enjoying life in the islands. Please understand, I am not trying to debate the moderator, not a good idea
I was sharing my experience and opinion with the OP. I have a number of cars that have influenced my opinion. I have a 2004 Camry beach car with opticoat going on 11 years. People sometimes ask where did I get it painted I enjoy telling them it's the original paint. The Camry carries my kayaks and boards to the beach 3 times a week, still looks decent. The paint is not glossy but still has a shine to it. I recently sold my daily driver S4 which had the 22ple. Still looked good but the consistency of depth and gloss was beginning to show. My SL55 weekend cruiser has 22ple and still looks great.
I am in the middle of making my own decision on treatment for my other automobiles. I have recently picked up a RX450h and am leaning towards the 22ple. We are thinking about using the RX450h as a replacement for the beach cruiser. If we do sell the Camry and turn the RX450h into the beach car I will probably go with the opticoat. I am also getting ready to do a paint correction on my 911. It is no longer going to be a garage queen so I am seriously thinking about going with the latest 22ple.
For gloss, depth and protection up to 3 years I like the latest 22ple. For protection in an challenging environment like the beaches of Hawaii over many years I like opticoat. Right or wrong is just my opinion
08-04-15, 09:09 PM
#19
I didn't intend to come across as confrontational, so if that was my perceived tone, I do apologize.
I simply wanted to point out exactly what you had described better... Durability can mean different things to different people, and unless those parameters are defined, it's just hard to completely state that one coating may be "more durable" than another.
All paint coatings do have their own unique characteristics, so there are tons of great options out there... Thank you for chiming in with your experiences.
11 years and opti- coat still performing well?? Now that is a great testimonial! Both to the coating and to how you maintain the vehicle.
Thanks!
-Zach
I simply wanted to point out exactly what you had described better... Durability can mean different things to different people, and unless those parameters are defined, it's just hard to completely state that one coating may be "more durable" than another.
All paint coatings do have their own unique characteristics, so there are tons of great options out there... Thank you for chiming in with your experiences.
11 years and opti- coat still performing well?? Now that is a great testimonial! Both to the coating and to how you maintain the vehicle.
Thanks!
-Zach
08-04-15, 11:37 PM
#20
I think he meant the car is 11 years old and it has OptiCoat on it now, but not that it's had OptiCoat on it since 2004.
A little searching makes me think OptiCoat was released to professionals around 2009. IIRC, shortly (within a year or so) after OptiSeal was released, a few people started posting in forums that they were testing a follow-on product that was very different and which far surpassed OptiSeal's durability. That product was OptiCoat.
A little searching makes me think OptiCoat was released to professionals around 2009. IIRC, shortly (within a year or so) after OptiSeal was released, a few people started posting in forums that they were testing a follow-on product that was very different and which far surpassed OptiSeal's durability. That product was OptiCoat.
08-05-15, 01:19 AM
#21
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I didn't intend to come across as confrontational, so if that was my perceived tone, I do apologize.
I simply wanted to point out exactly what you had described better... Durability can mean different things to different people, and unless those parameters are defined, it's just hard to completely state that one coating may be "more durable" than another.
All paint coatings do have their own unique characteristics, so there are tons of great options out there... Thank you for chiming in with your experiences.
11 years and opti- coat still performing well?? Now that is a great testimonial! Both to the coating and to how you maintain the vehicle.
Thanks!
-Zach
I simply wanted to point out exactly what you had described better... Durability can mean different things to different people, and unless those parameters are defined, it's just hard to completely state that one coating may be "more durable" than another.
All paint coatings do have their own unique characteristics, so there are tons of great options out there... Thank you for chiming in with your experiences.
11 years and opti- coat still performing well?? Now that is a great testimonial! Both to the coating and to how you maintain the vehicle.
Thanks!
-Zach
No apology needed, I've read your posts over the years and have been the beneficiary of the knowledge you have shared. If you don't mind, I'll be tapping your for advice in the future.
The 11 year old beach car has been good to us and it's time to let someone else have it. for the first half of it's life people often joked that the coating caused me to wash the car (I try to do a quick wash after going to the beach), it also helps that We live on the windward side of the island where it rains a lot. After about 7 years or so the jokes subsided, other cars of the same age started showing signs of fading. My guess is that the car is now down to the paint, probably little opticoat if any is left.
If you get a chance to speak to the creator of 22ple, please convey my thanks for creating the product in the first place but also for the evolution of the product. I'm looking forward to using the latest 22ple products.
Thank you
08-05-15, 01:33 AM
#22
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I think he meant the car is 11 years old and it has OptiCoat on it now, but not that it's had OptiCoat on it since 2004.
A little searching makes me think OptiCoat was released to professionals around 2009. IIRC, shortly (within a year or so) after OptiSeal was released, a few people started posting in forums that they were testing a follow-on product that was very different and which far surpassed OptiSeal's durability. That product was OptiCoat.
A little searching makes me think OptiCoat was released to professionals around 2009. IIRC, shortly (within a year or so) after OptiSeal was released, a few people started posting in forums that they were testing a follow-on product that was very different and which far surpassed OptiSeal's durability. That product was OptiCoat.
The opticoat was a good sacrificial layer for many years. I am fairly certain we are down to just paint on the car now. Part of the longevity may have been due to the frequent washes and the use of various toppers over the years.
08-19-15, 08:30 PM
#23
WOW! In reference to the pics of the two cars in this thread -
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...s-is250-c.html
Detailed Image has a 20% off sale on 22ple products through 8/22 (coupon code gtech22ple). I am getting the VX3, VS 1 Final Coat, and the applicators. I have the alcohol, clay bar, and fine polish for the prep work.
I'll probably have to wait until after Labor Day for this humidity to go away.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...s-is250-c.html
Detailed Image has a 20% off sale on 22ple products through 8/22 (coupon code gtech22ple). I am getting the VX3, VS 1 Final Coat, and the applicators. I have the alcohol, clay bar, and fine polish for the prep work.
I'll probably have to wait until after Labor Day for this humidity to go away.
09-18-15, 02:19 PM
#24
OK, over yesterday and today I did my LS460 and I have couple questions for Zach.
- I ordered the 50ml bottle of VX3, thinking I would do my two cars and possibly my wife's car. Having read Zach's and others blogs on Detailed Image, I knew not to use too much. However, after I finished I saw I had probably used at most 10 ml to do the whole car. So now I am worried if I used too little. I was careful to make sure that I overlapped all my strokes so I'm relatively sure I covered the whole car. Do you think this is OK or should I apply another coat?
- There were no instructions with the Final Coat. I assume I just spray it on and wipe it off just like a detail spray? And often often should I apply this?
- And finally here is the $64 question. While I took my time with the whole process (washed the car vigorously with Dawn, clay barred it, washed it again with Dawn, polished it with the Duetto with Ultra Fine polish, washed it with Dawn again, rubbed it down with 50% ISP before using the VX3), and the car looks fabulous. However, I just know I did not do the kind of job that a real professional would do. Any recommendations on someone in the Boston area to do my Ferrari? I'm thinking I might want to leave that to a pro.
Thanks!
- I ordered the 50ml bottle of VX3, thinking I would do my two cars and possibly my wife's car. Having read Zach's and others blogs on Detailed Image, I knew not to use too much. However, after I finished I saw I had probably used at most 10 ml to do the whole car. So now I am worried if I used too little. I was careful to make sure that I overlapped all my strokes so I'm relatively sure I covered the whole car. Do you think this is OK or should I apply another coat?
- There were no instructions with the Final Coat. I assume I just spray it on and wipe it off just like a detail spray? And often often should I apply this?
- And finally here is the $64 question. While I took my time with the whole process (washed the car vigorously with Dawn, clay barred it, washed it again with Dawn, polished it with the Duetto with Ultra Fine polish, washed it with Dawn again, rubbed it down with 50% ISP before using the VX3), and the car looks fabulous. However, I just know I did not do the kind of job that a real professional would do. Any recommendations on someone in the Boston area to do my Ferrari? I'm thinking I might want to leave that to a pro.
Thanks!
09-18-15, 05:57 PM
#25
OK, over yesterday and today I did my LS460 and I have couple questions for Zach.
- I ordered the 50ml bottle of VX3, thinking I would do my two cars and possibly my wife's car. Having read Zach's and others blogs on Detailed Image, I knew not to use too much. However, after I finished I saw I had probably used at most 10 ml to do the whole car. So now I am worried if I used too little. I was careful to make sure that I overlapped all my strokes so I'm relatively sure I covered the whole car. Do you think this is OK or should I apply another coat?
- There were no instructions with the Final Coat. I assume I just spray it on and wipe it off just like a detail spray? And often often should I apply this?
- And finally here is the $64 question. While I took my time with the whole process (washed the car vigorously with Dawn, clay barred it, washed it again with Dawn, polished it with the Duetto with Ultra Fine polish, washed it with Dawn again, rubbed it down with 50% ISP before using the VX3), and the car looks fabulous. However, I just know I did not do the kind of job that a real professional would do. Any recommendations on someone in the Boston area to do my Ferrari? I'm thinking I might want to leave that to a pro.
Thanks!
- I ordered the 50ml bottle of VX3, thinking I would do my two cars and possibly my wife's car. Having read Zach's and others blogs on Detailed Image, I knew not to use too much. However, after I finished I saw I had probably used at most 10 ml to do the whole car. So now I am worried if I used too little. I was careful to make sure that I overlapped all my strokes so I'm relatively sure I covered the whole car. Do you think this is OK or should I apply another coat?
- There were no instructions with the Final Coat. I assume I just spray it on and wipe it off just like a detail spray? And often often should I apply this?
- And finally here is the $64 question. While I took my time with the whole process (washed the car vigorously with Dawn, clay barred it, washed it again with Dawn, polished it with the Duetto with Ultra Fine polish, washed it with Dawn again, rubbed it down with 50% ISP before using the VX3), and the car looks fabulous. However, I just know I did not do the kind of job that a real professional would do. Any recommendations on someone in the Boston area to do my Ferrari? I'm thinking I might want to leave that to a pro.
Thanks!
09-18-15, 07:28 PM
#26
Thanks. I looked at their site. They don't give their address, but from the area code they must be south of Boston.
09-19-15, 10:40 AM
#27
OK, over yesterday and today I did my LS460 and I have couple questions for Zach.
- I ordered the 50ml bottle of VX3, thinking I would do my two cars and possibly my wife's car. Having read Zach's and others blogs on Detailed Image, I knew not to use too much. However, after I finished I saw I had probably used at most 10 ml to do the whole car. So now I am worried if I used too little. I was careful to make sure that I overlapped all my strokes so I'm relatively sure I covered the whole car. Do you think this is OK or should I apply another coat?
- There were no instructions with the Final Coat. I assume I just spray it on and wipe it off just like a detail spray? And often often should I apply this?
- And finally here is the $64 question. While I took my time with the whole process (washed the car vigorously with Dawn, clay barred it, washed it again with Dawn, polished it with the Duetto with Ultra Fine polish, washed it with Dawn again, rubbed it down with 50% ISP before using the VX3), and the car looks fabulous. However, I just know I did not do the kind of job that a real professional would do. Any recommendations on someone in the Boston area to do my Ferrari? I'm thinking I might want to leave that to a pro.
Thanks!
- I ordered the 50ml bottle of VX3, thinking I would do my two cars and possibly my wife's car. Having read Zach's and others blogs on Detailed Image, I knew not to use too much. However, after I finished I saw I had probably used at most 10 ml to do the whole car. So now I am worried if I used too little. I was careful to make sure that I overlapped all my strokes so I'm relatively sure I covered the whole car. Do you think this is OK or should I apply another coat?
- There were no instructions with the Final Coat. I assume I just spray it on and wipe it off just like a detail spray? And often often should I apply this?
- And finally here is the $64 question. While I took my time with the whole process (washed the car vigorously with Dawn, clay barred it, washed it again with Dawn, polished it with the Duetto with Ultra Fine polish, washed it with Dawn again, rubbed it down with 50% ISP before using the VX3), and the car looks fabulous. However, I just know I did not do the kind of job that a real professional would do. Any recommendations on someone in the Boston area to do my Ferrari? I'm thinking I might want to leave that to a pro.
Thanks!
VS1 Application Procedure:
As a finishing coat (after application of 22ple coating)
Allow at least 1 hour (3 hours is highly recommended) for initial curing of glass coat to take place
If cured with the aid of infra-red light, you may apply VS1 after 15 minutes but do ensure the surface temperature has cooled down to a room temperature.
spray VS1 onto the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel or the 22ple Glass Coat Applicator (Double Sided) and apply liberally over the glass coated surface
Lightly buff the surface with a plush microfiber to remove any remaining residue of VS1
As a maintenance agent
Wash and dry the vehicle
Spray VS1 onto the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel or the 22ple Glass Coat Applicator (Double Sided) and apply liberally over the entire vehicle
Lightly buff the surface with a plush microfiber to remove any remaining residue of VS1
As a finishing coat (after application of 22ple coating)
Allow at least 1 hour (3 hours is highly recommended) for initial curing of glass coat to take place
If cured with the aid of infra-red light, you may apply VS1 after 15 minutes but do ensure the surface temperature has cooled down to a room temperature.
spray VS1 onto the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel or the 22ple Glass Coat Applicator (Double Sided) and apply liberally over the glass coated surface
Lightly buff the surface with a plush microfiber to remove any remaining residue of VS1
As a maintenance agent
Wash and dry the vehicle
Spray VS1 onto the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel or the 22ple Glass Coat Applicator (Double Sided) and apply liberally over the entire vehicle
Lightly buff the surface with a plush microfiber to remove any remaining residue of VS1
22ple says around 3 months of life with VS1, but you can apply as frequently as you'd like to boost slickness and protection.
Let's see some pics of the car all shined up!
-Zach
09-19-15, 07:59 PM
#28
Thanks Zach. Actually after I posted I did find the instructions on Detailed Image. Somehow I missed it first time I looked.
I couldn't apply the Final Coat because I didn't have time this morning and now we are away for a few days. When we return I'll wash the car and apply it. I'll post a pic then.
I couldn't apply the Final Coat because I didn't have time this morning and now we are away for a few days. When we return I'll wash the car and apply it. I'll post a pic then.
11-12-15, 09:05 AM
#29
Lexus Champion
I got an email from an area Opti-Coat Pro retailer/detailer which talked about an upcoming price increase on Opti-Coat Pro+ in December. It said the price will go from $695 to $1,195. That's an increase of over 70%! Does anyone know if this is valid or have any additional information? I'm not a candidate for Opti-Coat, but thought I'd pass along this information.
11-12-15, 09:33 AM
#30
I got an email from an area Opti-Coat Pro retailer/detailer which talked about an upcoming price increase on Opti-Coat Pro+ in December. It said the price will go from $695 to $1,195. That's an increase of over 70%! Does anyone know if this is valid or have any additional information? I'm not a candidate for Opti-Coat, but thought I'd pass along this information.
I am no longer an authorized installer for Optimum as I left when they made their last drastic price increase (and more importantly other changes), but it wouldn't completely surprise me since their last couple of mandatory price increases more than doubled the minimum allowable price for installers to charge.
I'll see what I can find out.
-Zach